Actually, I lied. We did the Hysteer stuff at the Wabbit Hole/Goat Oasis one Saturday. Wabbit welded my IFS box plates on and we installed everything else.

It's easy enough to do. If I'd had access to a welder I prob would've attempted it at home.

I was thinking about when I put on my 6-shooter knuckles and arms and bearing repack/seals/wipes. That only took an afternoon.

 

darn lol. if only i knew how to weld..

 

Honestly I for the money the best bang for your buck really an engine swap for a bigger one.

 

You can do an engine swap, plus bigger, for less than a Hysteer set up or big brake upgrades? Dang, you're good....

 

so on my way home last night.. my rad turned into a volcano. temp almost went into the red just as i was pulling in the driveway. steam poured out from under the hood. coolant was shooting out the top of my rad. so naturally.. i replaced the radiator today.. and low and behold.. im still overheating. no oil in the coolant or vice versa. im thinking its either a water pump or a thermostat.. last night i tried to turn on the heat to lower my engine temp but nothing but cold air was coming out. the PO made my life awesome and broke a bolt on the thermostat housing, and rtv'd it in place.. any ideas? PO said the head gasket was done before he sold it to me but so far the PO has done ALOT of just dumb stuff. ive tried to be nice seeing how hes a fellow member. but this is getting ridiculous. Any ideas? like i said, brand new rad, heat was on, still overheating. also its hard to start lately. one more question, are 22re water pumps metal or plastic finned?

 

They have metal fins. Did your heat work before? If it did I would go after the water pump first. If you can get the thermostat out you can test it easily with a thermometer in some water on the stove, if it opens up around 180 or so it's good, if not, It needs to be replaced.

 

replaced the thermostat anyway. and yes the heat worked. it actually is always stuck on hot. the lever fell out lol. but im told it could be an air bubble in the cooling system. is there like a bleed procedure? also how hard is a water pump to do? like what all is involved?

 

Water pumps aren't hard, but I would make sure it's bled first. Air gets trapped easily in the 22Rs. I have had to disconnect a heater hose and fill with a funnel there. This seems to at least give it enough pressure to bleed out any other air on its own. When I did my swap, I topped the coolant for 4 days, though it never overheated.

It took me 30min to do my water pump,both my old 22R and the 3RZ.

 

rokblok and bfake you guys are awesome. i just wana thank you guys for helping me this far lol. which heater hose do you recommend?

 

Doesn't matter. Pick the one that's easiest for you to access.

Truck cool, radiator cap off. You may lose a little coolant out of the radiator if air gets forced out. The air may push a little coolant out prior. Make sense?

 

so pour in any heater hose as the truck is running, while its cool, rad cap off? yes?

 

I would do it at heater hose with truck off first, then put hose back on and maybe start it and let it idle while filling at the radiator.

 

okay. sounds easy enough. how much coolant does a 22re usually take? its got just under a gallon right now.

 

If I remember right, when I did my timing chain I used old antifreeze bottles to drain the coolant in to and nearly filled two of them so however much that is

 

okay thanks!

 

okay, i did everything that was mentioned above, minus adding to the rad while running, adding from the heater hose made it flow out the top of the rad. it was still full after i let it settle for 10 mins. so i then went on a 15 min test drive, usually 35-55 mph. temp sat at about 1/3. which is good. so i pull back up my driveway and let it idle and the temp starts climbing to just halfway. i turn the truck off, feel the rad cap, its warm, but not hot. i check the oil level, check my overflow reservoir, btw it has a big hole in it just above the "low" line. im ordering a new one. i turn the key, not start, but just so i can get a reading because the rad cap got hotter while the truck was not running. it was just over halfway maybe a little more. could my reservoir be an issue? it has not problems while it was moving, but at idle it VERY slowly climbed. should i be concerned? i dont want to be the guy who gets stuck in traffic and has to pull over to wait to cool down.

 

update, truck cooled to the point where i could take the cap off and it was down a little, topped it off with almost 2/3 of a funnel? (its a big ass funnel though, probably 7 or 8 in diameter, with a foot and a half long flexible neck)

 

Hopefully driving it around moved the coolant into some air pockets and that's why it was low. If it turns out that's not the case and if it's not leaking then it's burning it which means it's head gasket time. A leak down test will be able to tell you if it's the HG.

 

If it continues to get hot when idling, it could point to a fan clutch. Which is designed to release at higher RPMs, and engage when hot air moves over it(from radiator. It's filled with a type of oil that swells, which engages the mechanism internally. It's not something you would see moving. You would just hear the fan get louder.

 

yeah i know about fan clutches.. havent thought to test it. and hopefully it was just because the coolant was still a little low. topped it off again today, havent run it. i REALLY dont wana do a head gasket. if thats the case, ill just rebuild or buy a rebuilt. rokblok what all did you have to do to get your 3rz in there? and what tranny does it have?