When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm doing the head gasket but have a brand new head to put in. I was half expecting to see a worn-out camshaft on it kind of surprised it really look pretty good though.
and also replacing all those tiny little coolant hoses that are under the intake and probably have been there since 1985.
Last edited by Damion812; Dec 20, 2019 at 09:36 AM.
The more I think about it I'm leaning towards rebuilding the engine. I noticed something was going on with number 3 cylinder burning oil and so much oil in the intake manifold . I found what I think may have made me think the cam was a little ticky. The timing chain guide wasn't broke (it is plastic) but it moves a lot. I've got an OSK timing chain set on the way. I didn't check when I pulled the sprocket off the cam but I didn't notice a lot of tension there. It's time for new. Already started to clean stuff up.
current situation. What do you guys think? Time for new water and oil pump while I'm at it? This is a rebuild from 10 years ago , supposedly with 40K on it. Probably parts from the original to the truck . Oh yeah and the oil pan is glued on with some kinda seam sealer.
No turning back now!
I have a suggestion for your rebuild. If possible consider having it balanced. My mom used to drive an 84 Celica GTS 22re. One day the oil pressure sending unit fell apart and she ran it dry. I pulled the engine and sent it out for rebuild. It required a sleeve in one cylinder and it was balanced. Otherwise a stock rebuild. That engine felt so amazing after the balancing that i’m a believer.
You can even do a backyard balancing job with the use of a Harbor Freight scale. Just match rod, piston, wrist pin and ring sets as close as you can. Study some balancing videos online first. If you are doing other backyard blueprinting, it’s really worth it.
That's a great suggestion! I did this with a VW engine. I got a nice digital scale and found the German VW rods that came with the engine were spot on. I was rebuilding it a second time because an aftermarket rod burned up on the piston wrist pin. Junked the Chinese piston, cylinders and aftermarket rods to put the stuff that came with the engine and never looked back. 8 years ago.
Another one of the "while I'm there " kinda fixes. New injector connectors to replace some of the broken or clipless ones . I even managed to swap one of the old connectors to fix another connector elswhere. I unpined it and switched them. I decided to yank the engine harness so I cold solder them in my electronics lab ( basement freezor).
more big "while I'm there " fixes to come. There is a bunch of things I was going get to eventually but now that it is in the garage I figured now is the time.
Another one of the "while I'm there " kinda fixes. New injector connectors to replace some of the broken or clipless ones .
Nice! You checked the injector wire splices?
While you're there, may I suggest taking all the other wires out of that loom from under the intake? I think only the injector wires really need to be in that inhospitable and hard to access environment. If I remember correctly, those wires are:
1) Back up and 4WD switches wires,
2) Temp gage sender
3) Starter solenoid control wire.
I would run most of those wires along the inner fender.
Nice! You checked the injector wire splices?
While you're there, may I suggest taking all the other wires out of that loom from under the intake? I think only the injector wires really need to be in that inhospitable and hard to access environment. If I remember correctly, those wires are:
1) Back up and 4WD switches wires,
2) Temp gage sender
3) Starter solenoid control wire.
I would run most of those wires along the inner fender.
post something electical and RAD4Runner pops up, lol. Great idea getting them wires out of the heat. It's almost as hot as the exhaust side. It's not a big move for the wiring to the transmission so that will be easy!
Nice! You checked the injector wire splices?
While you're there, may I suggest taking all the other wires out of that loom from under the intake? I think only the injector wires really need to be in that inhospitable and hard to access environment. If I remember correctly, those wires are:
1) Back up and 4WD switches wires,
2) Temp gage sender
3) Starter solenoid control wire.
I would run most of those wires along the inner fender.
post something electical and RAD4Runner pops up, lol. Great idea getting them wires out of the heat. It's almost as hot as the exhaust side. It's not a big move for the wiring to the transmission so that will be easy!
hey BTW another idea rolling around in my head. I almost took out all the AC stuff when I had the front grill off because it's no longer working. What would happen if I just don't add the compressor but connect all the electrical connections? Would I end up with a CEL? That belt only runs the compressor and the idler pulley for the compressor. I read somewhere you would have to add a resistor in its place if removed but I could leave it.
Another one of them "while I'm there" deals . I pulled the transmission out of the 4runner cleaned it up. Welded the drive shaft dust shield. Replaced the transmission output seal. Replaced the transfer case output seal , both with Marlin Crawler HD eco seals. Also installed a new clutch TO bearing along with both clips. Instead of just the one like the past grease monkey 😉 Then reinstalled the transmission yesterday before cruising in Herbie.
nothing like taking a cruise in the past project vehicle after turning wrenches on the current project vehicle.
The trans looks great. What did you clean it with? I am guessing oven cleaner.
I was thinking of that for other parts but its just lots of engine degreaser and a screwdriver then a small wire brush. It was covered in oil from the egr cross over plate and some fluid film with a touch of under coating. Great recipe, lol.
engine assembly has begun. The old head bolts work nice so I can put the rear main seal in. Plus a strap to the cealing just in case. Other wise I've been using the old bearing cap bolts.
Dec 20, 2019 | 09:34 AM
