I ran a stock Celica GTS of the 1986 year. I used to put some expensive bottle of "slick oil" in it. Finally took it to the junk yard at 300k because of tranny problems, engine still very strong! I'm having trouble getting the 3vze past 100k!! Any oil addatives for for the 3.slow to make it more durable, or better yet, anything to avoid that will actually make it weaker????

 

10W30 valvoline high mileage enough said

 

I just picked up some 10w-30 castrol high millage and a purolator pure one after reading this. I let you guys know how it goes.

 

use the lucas oil treatment, about 20% or so, that helps a LOT. if you're running synthetic in an old engine, you'd better have some lucas or STP treatment in with it or you can actually have accelerated wear

the lucas I buy in 1gal jugs for about $30, use it from front to rear in all my rigs

 

The castrol high millage is a synthetic? If so I'm going to dump it today.

 

Why does a perfectly good oil need to be treated? And how does a synthetic cause accelerated wear. Enlighten me.

 

additive would be a better word for this stuff in my opinion but it raises the viscosity a bit and stays on the gears or in various engine components better than plain oil. the synthetic is too 'thin' for engines that have high mileage and slips past places it doesn't belong and won't stay on surfaces it belongs as well as it should, meaning less lubricant where it's needed (and accelerated wear). the oil treatments make it thicker without drastically altering the intended properties of a given oil.

Another school of thought is the detergents used in synthetics, it will scrub out years/miles of oil goo build up around the seals resulting in poor protection; I saw this plain as day when I switched to synthetic by itself in my taco at around 110k; the oil was BLACK as night within 700 miles! I did some research on line and this ^ is about the best explanation I could find.

that's about what I know, anyone else have an opinion or insight??

 

" Slip past places it doesn't belong ".... Now I know your just baiting us. Thats funny.

 

Hi Teuf, I'm not an oil analyst, but my other car has a turbo and the idiots on NASIOC have civil war about oil every few months soo I've read enough to know I don't know jack....

There is a lot of talk about DINO(dinosaur) vs. Synthetic. In particular "shear" is the term of choice, which basically suggests the synthetic oils lose viscosity due to thermal shock and friction...and that some synthetics(mobile1 is currently on the crucifix) are too thin out of the bottle, and rapidly become thinner. This is of course, the root of all evil re: engine wear.

Now, I drive a simple 2.4 liter truck, no spool, low hp, and I think this oil conversation is a bunch of hoo haw -EXCEPT- that you should change your oil every 3-5k miles depending upon what you put in there, and you should use a "good" filter aka OEM.
The biggest argument for Dino oil is its stupidly cheap. So you can afford to change the oil every 3mos/3000 miles. The biggest arguments for Synth is it isn't full of impurities that eat your catalyst and leave sludge, and you can wait a few thousand more miles between changes......

I run rotella T-6 Full Synthetic 10w40 in the subaru, and I change it every 3750. I'll let it go 5-6k in the truck. A lot of guys pay for oil analysis which will tell you how the engine is running, whats in got gas/water/coolant/other in your oil, how your filter is working, etc. but for me, on a truck with 245K+ miles on it that doesn't make much sense. I expect I'll be replacing my engine before too long.... I just use the T-6 because I've got a lot

 

castrol high mileage is not synthetic.

 

since adding the lucas stuff every time now, my oil darkens at a 'normal' rate now, maybe because I already knocked all the gunk out but it really seems to really work great. quicker starts too. I'm also running 5w-30 in my taco but will probably go to 10w-30

 

hahaha, looks like there will be some swelling for the next 9 months now.... hahaha

I used a condom, I swear.... musta broke....

 

I'm also not a mechanic so I don't want to start slinging engine tech too much or i will get inundated with corrections on this or that component, I'm just a guy with a wrench in one hand and yotatech in the other with higher than average motivation! lol

 

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq...=haas_articles

aa1911, look that up its a long but good read.

 

Ah OK its a link

 

Lol. I'm positive ANY oil "slips past places it doesnt belong!" Not a whole lot, but a little.

 

Just found this, hadn't seen it before:


This question comes up a lot from people who've just bought a used vehicle and are wanting to start their history with the car on fresh oil. The short answer: generally speaking, not any more. The caveat is that your engine must be in good working order and not be leaking right now. If that's the case, most modern oils are fully compatible with the elastomeric materials that engine seals are made from, and you shouldn't have any issues with leaks. The longer answer:

Mixing Mineral and Synthetic oils - the old and busted concepts
For the longest time, I had this to say about mixing mineral and synthetic oils:

If you've been driving around with mineral oil in your engine for years, don't switch to synthetic oil without preparation. Synthetic oils have been known to dislodge the baked-on deposits from mineral oils and leave them floating around your engine - not good. It's wise to use a flushing oil first (see below).
If you do decide to change, only go up the scale. If you've been running around on synthetic, don't change down to a mineral-based oil - your engine might not be able to cope with the degradation in lubrication. Consequently, if you've been using mineral oil, try a semi or a full synthetic oil. By degradation, I'm speaking of the wear tolerances that an engine develops based on the oil that it's using. Thicker mineral oils mean thicker layers of oil coating the moving parts (by microns though). Switching to a thinner synthetic oil can cause piston rings to leak and in some very rare cases, piston slap or crank vibration.
Gaskets and seals! With the makeup of synthetic oils being different from mineral oils, mineral-oil-soaked gaskets and seals have been known to leak when exposed to synthetic oils. Perhaps not that common an occurrence, but worth bearing in mind nevertheless.
Mixing Mineral and Synthetic oils - the new hotness
That's the thing with progress - stuff becomes out-of-date. Fortunately for you, dear reader, the web is a great place to keep things up-to-date, so here's the current thinking on the subject of mixing mineral and synthetic oils. This information is based on the answer to a technical question posed on the Shell Oil website.
There is no scientific data to support the idea that mixing mineral and synthetic oils will damage your engine. When switching from a mineral oil to a synthetic, or vice versa, you will potentially leave a small amount of residual oil in the engine. That's perfectly okay because synthetic oil and mineral-based motor oil are, for the most part, compatible with each other. (The exception is pure synthetics. Polyglycols don't mix with normal mineral oils.)
There is also no problem with switching back and forth between synthetic and mineral based oils. In fact, people who are "in the know" and who operate engines in areas where temperature fluctuations can be especially extreme, switch from mineral oil to synthetic oil for the colder months. They then switch back to mineral oil during the warmer months.
There was a time, years ago, when switching between synthetic oils and mineral oils was not recommended if you had used one product or the other for a long period of time. People experienced problems with seals leaking and high oil consumption but changes in additive chemistry and seal material have taken care of those issues. And that's an important caveat. New seal technology is great, but if you're still driving around in a car from the 80's with its original seals, then this argument becomes a bit of a moot point - your seals are still going to be subject to the old leakage problems no matter what newfangled additives the oil companies are putting in their products.




Read more: http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_b...#ixzz10lNofbdT

 

I knew you'd come around.

 

YAY, and BTW the Ferrari chat is an awesome link. I found it a few years ago

 

i want to recycle my oil with a few bed sheets and a bucket.. "lets see if i can get 30,000 miles before i change oil..."