84-85 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd gen pickups and 1st gen 4Runners with solid front axles

Brand of Oil to use?

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Old Apr 6, 2007 | 09:04 PM
  #21  
corvettelvr73's Avatar
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From: Charlotte, North Carolina
Castrol GTX 10W 30
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Old Apr 6, 2007 | 09:45 PM
  #22  
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From: san diego
Originally Posted by 91TPU
mobil 1 syn 10-30, or pennzoil syn 10-30, but i think im gonna give 10-40 a shot and see if its better...
So you either use one of the best oils OR the worst oil??
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Old Apr 6, 2007 | 09:54 PM
  #23  
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I use Mobil1 10w30 with toyota filters. She likes it
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 04:44 AM
  #24  
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Everybody is dissin' Fram. How come?
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 08:22 AM
  #25  
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Amsoil
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 08:54 AM
  #26  
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From: Iowa
Originally Posted by Mark in MD
Everybody is dissin' Fram. How come?
An old man at o'reilly's gave me a 10 minute speech. He also had a cut down model of a fram and a wix on the counter. if you saw the guts of a fram, you'd never use one again. the wix was constructed much better. I don't know everything, so i can't give you every reason why the wix is better. i noticed when i bought the wix, my castrol syntec (full synthetic) stayed clean WAAAAY longer than with the fram. just my opinion.
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 08:54 AM
  #27  
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From: Tulsa,OK
Originally Posted by Mark in MD
Everybody is dissin' Fram. How come?

Fram Extra Guard
"Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The stamped-metal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were circulating through my system. The oil passage to the head became blocked and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum lines connected to it as well as the wires near it."

Taken From http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters.html
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 08:55 AM
  #28  
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We both answered it at the same time.
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 08:55 AM
  #29  
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From: Iowa
Originally Posted by Mattbaby24
Fram Extra Guard
"Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The stamped-metal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were circulating through my system. The oil passage to the head became blocked and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum lines connected to it as well as the wires near it."

Taken From http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters.html
peferct timing matt.... what he said!!
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 08:55 AM
  #30  
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I'm taking delivery this afternoon of an '85 4x4 with 126,*** miles. It's got the 22R/carb engine. I know it's been sitting in somone's backyard for at least a year but I don't know much more than that about the history, it does start & run good though.

I see you guys were mostly referring to the 22RE engine, what are the recommendations for the 22R? The specs say 10W40 SF/CC, the only SF rated oil I can find is the "Accel" brand at Walmart ($2.17/qt).
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 09:41 AM
  #31  
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From: Seattle
Rotella T-6 in my subaru and my truck. Change it every 3500 in the WRX, every 5000 in the toy. I use OEM subaru filters and oem toyota filters.
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 11:26 AM
  #32  
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I've been corrected on my understanding of the rating. Anyone have experience using Royal Purple?
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 11:52 AM
  #33  
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From: Hazzard County, Georgia
Does anybody actually get the oil tested they are using? You cant look at it and feel it and say its doing a good job. Oil test will tell you everything except what color a vehicle is, they are a very good tool , and VERY informative
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 11:57 AM
  #34  
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From: Dixon, Ca
Valvoline Syn blend 5/30, Toyota filter.
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 11:58 AM
  #35  
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Fram's, from what I understand they do not get very high marks when cut up an compared to other filters. Low quality.
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 10:40 PM
  #36  
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From: Watson, LA, USA
I went with the Mobil 1 10W40 high mileage, and the Bosch filter. Here's a decent article on filters, due to the article I might go with Purolator or Wix next time. This guy definitely noticed the lower quality of Fram.

http://www.corolland.com/oil-filters.html
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 10:54 PM
  #37  
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From: Spokane, WA
Originally Posted by LSUfan71
I've been corrected on my understanding of the rating. Anyone have experience using Royal Purple?
I run royoal purple in my big block chevy engine.
I wouldnt waste the money on an engine like a 22r..
Sure they're good engines, but you can basically run anything in them for oil and they'll run fine.
I run pennzoil 10w40.
Then again, all my oil leaks out at the timing chain cover at the head, so i'm constantly putting in fresh oil.
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 10:55 PM
  #38  
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From: Scottsdale, AZ
I only use Castrol or Valvoline. I will consider Mobil 1 due to all the good things I have heard about it. I have been told my numerous mechanic friends to never use Penzoil.

I used to always buy Fram--I bought into the marketing and had no way of knowing better. Now I use Toyota OEM filters.

I am about to finish my 22re build and need to get oil, I was told to use regular oil (not synthetic) Can anyone confirm this, and maybe suggest a weight. I am in Arizona and it is mostly hot here (but it's a dry heat). 8)
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 10:59 PM
  #39  
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For a fresh rebuild, definitely use dino oil.
Idk the specifics of it, but synthetic is too slick and the rings wont seat.
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 06:23 AM
  #40  
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From: Wackoville, California
Wow, up until reading this post I have ALWAYS used Fram. Guess I'll be averting my ways.

WalMart oil. People can argue they're points about quality oils and they'd be correct. But I'm not running a Formula 1 track car. I'm running a 4cylinder motor w/ 230k miles and the original, completely intact timing chain and related components. Synthetic oils were unheard of in 1984 and it seems mute to think synthetic would take night and day effect on this engine.

On the flipside, I'm becoming really curious of SeaFoam... been meaning to try that out.
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