What alternators fit stock on a 79?
01-28-2010, 10:06 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Prescott, AZ
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What alternators fit stock on a 79?
I've got a '79 Hilux with the 20r. I'm installing a powerful sound system alongside my KC lights, and I've been searching for a high output alternator and cannot find one below $350 that says it's specifically for a '79 Toyota pickup. I remember I helped my friend wire his Honda Civic for a huge sound system with a 160 amp alternator that was only about $90 plus shipping. So I figure there's got to be some cheaper HOA's out there. I've found some, though, that say they'll fit the older Celicas with the 20r's, and apparently, those same ones will fit the 1.6L Celica motors too. Do all 20r's and even some other Toyota motors have the same bolt patterns and belts? So, I was wondering if maybe these alternators will bolt straight onto the motor in my truck. I know you can buy the adapters to install the GM alternators which are cheap to find with high outputs, but the extra cost of the bracket would push the cost way above what they're asking for the Celica HOA's on ebay. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
01-29-2010, 07:35 AM
#2
Registered User
You can install a kit which will allow you to mount a Chevy alternator on your engine or buy the upgrade mounting bracket from LC Engineering which allows you to install the later model Toyota alternators. The Chevy kit is available from someone on this site or from the Toyota Minis site. You can buy a higher amp alternator from Northwest off-road Specialties for about $190.00 + shipping.
01-29-2010, 08:23 AM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Sierra Nevada's or the Deserts of Las Vegas
Posts: 2,203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
x2 on the GM swap, I think I read somewhere on pirate that there's a year which is direct swap in, no bracket, you just have to space a bolt out with a couple washers, let me see if I can dig it up for you. I've been thinking about the same upgrade.
01-29-2010, 08:41 AM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Sierra Nevada's or the Deserts of Las Vegas
Posts: 2,203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
01-29-2010, 03:02 PM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Prescott, AZ
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just looked at some pics of the 22-re alternators. Those seem to be for multiple groove belts. The one on my 20r is a single groove. Can I maybe switch out the pulley on my current alternator with the 22-re ones? Thanks
05-23-2015, 06:00 PM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Greenville, NC
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've got a '79 Hilux with the 20r. I'm installing a powerful sound system alongside my KC lights, and I've been searching for a high output alternator and cannot find one below $350 that says it's specifically for a '79 Toyota pickup. I remember I helped my friend wire his Honda Civic for a huge sound system with a 160 amp alternator that was only about $90 plus shipping. So I figure there's got to be some cheaper HOA's out there. I've found some, though, that say they'll fit the older Celicas with the 20r's, and apparently, those same ones will fit the 1.6L Celica motors too. Do all 20r's and even some other Toyota motors have the same bolt patterns and belts? So, I was wondering if maybe these alternators will bolt straight onto the motor in my truck. I know you can buy the adapters to install the GM alternators which are cheap to find with high outputs, but the extra cost of the bracket would push the cost way above what they're asking for the Celica HOA's on ebay. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Bump...
I'm in a similar situation, as I have an '80 with the 20R and have some wiring issues, so was hoping to drop in an Alt with an internal reg. I am in a tough spot as I don't have a lot of time or space to swap out brackets and make mods. I have been investigating some and it 'looks like' an Alt for a 1980 Land Cruiser has the right connection points for the brackets... Anyone know for certain?
TIA!
Kitt
Last edited by 80Truck; 05-24-2015 at 08:22 AM.
05-24-2015, 01:10 PM
#7
Super Moderator
Staff
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Anderson Missouri
Posts: 11,788
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
19 Posts
I do know that the 84 and older trucks had a black box that I believe is the voltage regulator. That is one of the difference in the different alternators if that helps.
Trending Topics
05-24-2015, 03:01 PM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Greenville, NC
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes, the 79-83 have external regulators. the box on the fender is just that, the voltage regulator. I had to order one, just to see if that is my problem.
I did a bunch of checks today and am slightly confused. Hooked up my ammeter between the BATT terminal on the Alternator and hooked up a voltmeter to the BATT terminal and to ground. At idle I get 0 amps and 12.68VDC. Rev up the engine (not sure how many rpms as my tach is not currently working - another fix for later) and it goes up to 12.75VDC, and my amps top out at 1.13 amps. If I trun on my lights and fan, I get 12.37VDC, 0 amps. Rev it up and get 12.38VDC and still 1.12 or so amps.
I may even change out the Alt as well...
I was and am still hoping to swap in an internal regulated Alt and see if I can make it all work correctly... We shall see...
I did a bunch of checks today and am slightly confused. Hooked up my ammeter between the BATT terminal on the Alternator and hooked up a voltmeter to the BATT terminal and to ground. At idle I get 0 amps and 12.68VDC. Rev up the engine (not sure how many rpms as my tach is not currently working - another fix for later) and it goes up to 12.75VDC, and my amps top out at 1.13 amps. If I trun on my lights and fan, I get 12.37VDC, 0 amps. Rev it up and get 12.38VDC and still 1.12 or so amps.
I may even change out the Alt as well...
I was and am still hoping to swap in an internal regulated Alt and see if I can make it all work correctly... We shall see...
05-24-2015, 03:06 PM
#9
Registered User
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Greenville, NC
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Forgot to add all this:
Great way to look up some Japanese components:
http://densoautoparts.com/find-my-pa...icle-selection
The Land Cruiser Alternators that look like a good swap in are:
Advanced Auto Parts P/N 14573A
O'Reilly's P/N 14315
There are others with different Amp ratings as well with the same case. Only question is the clocking of the mounts. The original has the top mount at 10-11 O'clock, where the Land Cruiser one is at 12...
Great way to look up some Japanese components:
http://densoautoparts.com/find-my-pa...icle-selection
The Land Cruiser Alternators that look like a good swap in are:
Advanced Auto Parts P/N 14573A
O'Reilly's P/N 14315
There are others with different Amp ratings as well with the same case. Only question is the clocking of the mounts. The original has the top mount at 10-11 O'clock, where the Land Cruiser one is at 12...
05-24-2015, 11:20 PM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 395
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Your ammeter is not hooked up correctly if there is no current draw with lights and fan (or even engine ignition) on. My truck draws about 45mA with everything off, 43 of which are the charge light relay. Also, 12.7V is too low for alternator output; should be at least 13.5. Was your battery installed when you did these tests? What's your ammeter rated for?
I had my alt fail a couple weeks ago, then started researching high-output ones. Here's what I've figured out for options:
1. GM 1- or 3-wire (3-wire a little more work to install, but works better), which requires a bracket. Above is the first I hear of a possible straight bolt-in solution.
2. 90-95 automatic 4Runner (possibly others), which needs one of the ears ground down to fit, puts out 70A, and also needs some wiring because it's internally regulated.
3. 90's Jaguar. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ow-too-253689/
I had my alt fail a couple weeks ago, then started researching high-output ones. Here's what I've figured out for options:
1. GM 1- or 3-wire (3-wire a little more work to install, but works better), which requires a bracket. Above is the first I hear of a possible straight bolt-in solution.
2. 90-95 automatic 4Runner (possibly others), which needs one of the ears ground down to fit, puts out 70A, and also needs some wiring because it's internally regulated.
3. 90's Jaguar. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ow-too-253689/
Last edited by moroza; 05-24-2015 at 11:22 PM.
05-25-2015, 07:07 AM
#11
Registered User
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Greenville, NC
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Your ammeter is not hooked up correctly if there is no current draw with lights and fan (or even engine ignition) on. My truck draws about 45mA with everything off, 43 of which are the charge light relay. Also, 12.7V is too low for alternator output; should be at least 13.5. Was your battery installed when you did these tests? What's your ammeter rated for?
I had my alt fail a couple weeks ago, then started researching high-output ones. Here's what I've figured out for options:
1. GM 1- or 3-wire (3-wire a little more work to install, but works better), which requires a bracket. Above is the first I hear of a possible straight bolt-in solution.
2. 90-95 automatic 4Runner (possibly others), which needs one of the ears ground down to fit, puts out 70A, and also needs some wiring because it's internally regulated.
3. 90's Jaguar. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ow-too-253689/
I had my alt fail a couple weeks ago, then started researching high-output ones. Here's what I've figured out for options:
1. GM 1- or 3-wire (3-wire a little more work to install, but works better), which requires a bracket. Above is the first I hear of a possible straight bolt-in solution.
2. 90-95 automatic 4Runner (possibly others), which needs one of the ears ground down to fit, puts out 70A, and also needs some wiring because it's internally regulated.
3. 90's Jaguar. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ow-too-253689/
Will redo the ammeter test again today, as I may have hooked it up wrong in as much as I did not put the leads from the BATT terminal on the Alt, and the other on the Battery terminal, but had it go through the trucks wiring...
Ammeter is rated for 10amps, I believe, as it is a multimeter.
Battery is installed, and as far as I can tell, is what I'm running off of...
Also, I have yet to find that charge relay, and my charge light has never come on... I have looked all over the firewall and sides under the dashboard for this relay - drivers and passengers side - and it is not there...
I agree I should have at least 13.5 coming off the Alt, which is why I've been under the hood for the past week...
I've been doing as much research as I can to do an upgrade, would love to drop in he GM 3 wire, but not sure my automotive electrical knowledge is up to snuff...
The Land Cruiser Alts look to be a drop in, but will require some wiring mods as they are internally regulated, 3 wire setups...
Last edited by 80Truck; 05-25-2015 at 07:15 AM.
05-25-2015, 07:36 AM
#12
Registered User
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Greenville, NC
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just redid the amp check, same results...
This time I went from the BATT terminal on the Alt with the + lead, through the Ammeter and hooked the - lead to the + battery post.
Ammeter set with the digital readout at 0.00 DC
Engine off - 0 amps
ign on but engine off - 0 amps
engine running at cold idle - 0 amps
engine rev'd to 3k rpm (I think) - 0.58 amps
This time I went from the BATT terminal on the Alt with the + lead, through the Ammeter and hooked the - lead to the + battery post.
Ammeter set with the digital readout at 0.00 DC
Engine off - 0 amps
ign on but engine off - 0 amps
engine running at cold idle - 0 amps
engine rev'd to 3k rpm (I think) - 0.58 amps
Last edited by 80Truck; 05-25-2015 at 07:55 AM.
05-25-2015, 01:29 PM
#14
Registered User
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Greenville, NC
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OK....
Redid the electrical check a different way. Pulled the 'charge' wire off of the clamp at the + battery terminal and put my ammeter in there.
Got about .25-.29 amps just as is, everything off.
Ign on, engine off - 3.4 amps
Lights on, engine off - 16 amps!
Start the engine - 3 amps
rev the engine - no change, 3 amps
Pull the ammeter lead off of the battery terminal - truck dies...
Still cannot find the charge lamp relay...
Redid the electrical check a different way. Pulled the 'charge' wire off of the clamp at the + battery terminal and put my ammeter in there.
Got about .25-.29 amps just as is, everything off.
Ign on, engine off - 3.4 amps
Lights on, engine off - 16 amps!
Start the engine - 3 amps
rev the engine - no change, 3 amps
Pull the ammeter lead off of the battery terminal - truck dies...
Still cannot find the charge lamp relay...
Last edited by 80Truck; 05-25-2015 at 01:34 PM.
05-26-2015, 11:13 AM
#15
Registered User
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Greenville, NC
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just for the sake of my sanity... Or lack thereof... Can you turn any alternator that has an internal regulator into a one-wire?
Or do a simple rewire of a 3-wire into my truck?
TIA
Or do a simple rewire of a 3-wire into my truck?
TIA
Last edited by 80Truck; 05-26-2015 at 11:24 AM.
05-28-2015, 08:59 AM
#16
Registered User
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Greenville, NC
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Since I've not gotten much of a response here to point me in the right direction...
Now, don't get me wrong, there is a ton of info here, lots of awesome folks with great knowledge... Just not for what I'm trying to do, it seems...
SO, I did more digging around elsewhere, trying to cross-reference other vehicles with the 20R engine to see what might be had... Not much...
But, I did find that the 1980 Land Cruiser, with a 6 cylinder engine, uses an Alternator with an internal regulator - well, it's attached to the case of the alt. that has about the same brackets, so will hook up to the 1980 20R brackets.
However, trying to find one has proven to be difficult as the usual auto parts shops (Avdance, O'Reilly's, etc) have them listed in their database, but have none in stock, or they are discontinued. Napa on the other hand HAS them, but usually you have to order them. So I ordered one. They come with the Regulator and plug oriented at 10 o'clock or 2 o'clock, all I could get was one set a 10:00 which I hope will not interfere with the radiator hose, we shall see...
ALSO, the top mount on the old Alt. is set at about 1-2 o'clock, where the Land Cruiser one is at 12 o'clock, so a shorter belt may be necessary to get it tight enough.
I found a write up on another site explaining some Alternator variations and how to wire them;
http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/volt...-works.784192/
More to follow, once I get the parts in...
Now, don't get me wrong, there is a ton of info here, lots of awesome folks with great knowledge... Just not for what I'm trying to do, it seems...
SO, I did more digging around elsewhere, trying to cross-reference other vehicles with the 20R engine to see what might be had... Not much...
But, I did find that the 1980 Land Cruiser, with a 6 cylinder engine, uses an Alternator with an internal regulator - well, it's attached to the case of the alt. that has about the same brackets, so will hook up to the 1980 20R brackets.
However, trying to find one has proven to be difficult as the usual auto parts shops (Avdance, O'Reilly's, etc) have them listed in their database, but have none in stock, or they are discontinued. Napa on the other hand HAS them, but usually you have to order them. So I ordered one. They come with the Regulator and plug oriented at 10 o'clock or 2 o'clock, all I could get was one set a 10:00 which I hope will not interfere with the radiator hose, we shall see...
ALSO, the top mount on the old Alt. is set at about 1-2 o'clock, where the Land Cruiser one is at 12 o'clock, so a shorter belt may be necessary to get it tight enough.
I found a write up on another site explaining some Alternator variations and how to wire them;
http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/volt...-works.784192/
More to follow, once I get the parts in...
05-28-2015, 09:49 AM
#18
Registered User
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Greenville, NC
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
