Trying to remove emissions equipment, engine keeps dying.
#1
Trying to remove emissions equipment, engine keeps dying.
Hey everyone I have just picked up a 1979 pickup and it already has a weber 32/36 on it. While looking at all the vacuum lines and seeing most of them being disconnected I figured I would remove the solenoids attached to the wiring harness. I did this and the truck would not stay running. The only thing I can figure is that the disconnect is causing an electrical issue somewhere else. I have attached pictures of my engine bay, any help is appreciated.
#2
#3
I wrote the book on desmogging - In fact, LCE uses my "book" on their web page. Everything you need to know is right here:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...torial-264405/
Wiring has absolutely nothing to do with desmogging. As long as you have the distributor, coil and ignition hooked up, you're good too go. I actually completely stripped the emissions from the wiring harness in my 83 so there wasn't a single trace of emissions on it. The emissions equipment only "talks" to itself - it does not alter timing, fuel or spark like emissions do in modern vehicles. Here is your troubleshooting list:
1 - First and foremost, I do not see a fuel pressure regulator in the pictures above. If you do not have one, GET ONE! Your Weber will NEVER run properly without it. Set the FPR to 2.5-3.5 PSI. Any more than that will flood the bowl with too much fuel.
2 - Check for vacuum leaks. Check EVERYWHERE - Distributor, brake booster, anywhere that emissions equipment was, vacuum ports, bad hoses, PCV hose, manifold gasket, etc. I recommend using the LCE emissions plug kit over rubber caps. Rubber cap can be loose and will deteriorate over time.
3 - Check your timing. Make sure that your timing is correctly set. The timing for a Weber is typically around 8* BTDC with the vacuum advance cut.
4 - Check you electric choke. If your choke is stuck open then after it warms up it will bog out on you. Make sure that it is properly closing. Disconnect it and make sure that it is closed when you are tuning the Weber.
Start with the above and see where you get.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...torial-264405/
Wiring has absolutely nothing to do with desmogging. As long as you have the distributor, coil and ignition hooked up, you're good too go. I actually completely stripped the emissions from the wiring harness in my 83 so there wasn't a single trace of emissions on it. The emissions equipment only "talks" to itself - it does not alter timing, fuel or spark like emissions do in modern vehicles. Here is your troubleshooting list:
1 - First and foremost, I do not see a fuel pressure regulator in the pictures above. If you do not have one, GET ONE! Your Weber will NEVER run properly without it. Set the FPR to 2.5-3.5 PSI. Any more than that will flood the bowl with too much fuel.
2 - Check for vacuum leaks. Check EVERYWHERE - Distributor, brake booster, anywhere that emissions equipment was, vacuum ports, bad hoses, PCV hose, manifold gasket, etc. I recommend using the LCE emissions plug kit over rubber caps. Rubber cap can be loose and will deteriorate over time.
3 - Check your timing. Make sure that your timing is correctly set. The timing for a Weber is typically around 8* BTDC with the vacuum advance cut.
4 - Check you electric choke. If your choke is stuck open then after it warms up it will bog out on you. Make sure that it is properly closing. Disconnect it and make sure that it is closed when you are tuning the Weber.
Start with the above and see where you get.
#4
You have way to much smog stuff on still. If I recall right when I got done with my Weber Conversion, I had to trace back into the wiring harness and remove 2 electrical wires for a cleaner look. Follow kawazx636 steps. When done and everything is working like it should be, 1 or 2 pumps of the gas pedal and you will have one of the quickest starting motors there is.
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