dropzone

iTrader: (6)

decided to consolidate some of the threads on desmogging early 22R's
some great info in the following links:

kawazx636's thread
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...torial-264405/

Pumkinyota's thread:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...ly-22r-205845/

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Good idea Rob! Thanks!

magentawave

I'm not a mechanic but I know how to use tools and recently swapped the rear axles from one Toyota motorhome to another one and vice-versa. Do you think that with those instructions that I could handle desmogging my 82 22R and also install a Weber carb...or is that something best left to those more mechanically inclined?

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Honestly, it is not difficult at all. In desmogging, you're actually not altering the basic operation of the engine. You're simply removing the emission control system that probably wasn't working properly to begin with. If you follow my thread, get the proper desmog plates (I recommend getting everything from LCE) and ask questions when you get stumped, you won't go wrong.

magentawave

Thanks dude! And do those instructions address replacing my current Aisian carb with a Weber at the same time, or do you do the de-smogging first and then replace the carb?

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Either or, but it is easier to desmog and go with the Weber at the same time. Installing a Weber takes no time at all. Honestly, the best way to go about desmogging is to start pulling every vacuum hose off your engine and anything attached to them that isn't the distributor because it all comes off. Scope out my completed engine build and compare it to your motor. You'll see everything that isn't needed under your hood - it's a lot!

magentawave

Thanks for the encouragement and thanks for taking the time to post your desmog tutorial! That really was awesome of you to have so generously shared all of that. I will read everything.

mtrdud

Kawa and Pumkin,

I have read both of your threads several times and I have a few specific questions relating to what I have in mind.

I am wanting to desmog and still keep the Aisin carb due to $$ and the fact that I have a decent one ready to go. My questions are:

1. To keep that auto choke, what do I need to leave attached on the intake manifold? Do I leave the underside of the intake manifold as-is or use the block off plate? Which electronics?

2. Do I need to put that block off plate on the rear of the head that's so hard to reach ? In other words, can I get everthing off while avoiding this?

3. Has anyone used a manual choke conversion on their Aisin?

I may end up going to a Weber at some point but I want to try to clean things up and use the stocker I have now and see how it pans out.

Thanks in advance for your help.

jcm151

MTR

I did this last weekend, I have an 82 22r and running the aisin carb....I did not block off the back of the head, I blocked the other main ones (no water ones though) and it didn't change much.

I have to two dist vacuum lines, and the brake booster.. That is it. I removed all charcoal canisters because they were clogged. I am trying to get one unclogged so I can add it back to the firewall.

The only issue I am having is not being able to idle below 1000 rpm.. Which I assume has to do with a leak somewhere.. I am still messing with it.

Rusty81Yota4x4

Hello,
I have a rebuilt 22R I just put in my truck, new 32/36 Weber w offenhauser intake,& did the de-smog kits. I've noticed my temp gauge reads hot, a little before redline, after running it for 30min. I timed it,replaced the thermostat thinking that t was the issue, but still running hot. Not sure if it's the fan not turning enough to cool. I was also thinking the weber needed tuning? Or is this a normal thing after the desmog?

user635

Hello,

1981 toyota 22r 4x4 California truck. I'm trying to get it smogged. Redid the 40ft of vacuum line, tested the VSV's, TSV, ASV, ERG... and they seem to be functioning correctly. The air bypass hose from the smog pump (Air injection system) puffs (puf-puff-puff) when the truck is fully warmed up in time with the clicking 2nd VSV. Is this normal? The rate increases with RPM. Just want to check before I take it in, as the manual doesn't state what proper fully warmed up functioning is supposed to be.

Jim