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capillix's 1979 Pickup Build-Up Thread

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Old Feb 11, 2016 | 08:19 PM
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capillix's 1979 Pickup Build-Up Thread

I bought a 1979 toyota pickup a number of years ago. My first vehicle! I drove it daily on and off-road. So much fun. Hell even fixing the little things I'd break out on the trails was fun. Then one day I blew a head gasket and parked it. A few years and a couple of kids later, I'm on the fast track to getting my baby rollin again.

With the wife's blessing (go figure):::

Had the head resurfaced: super.
Ordered an RV Cam (261)
Weber 32/36 dgev
OEM Radiator (wanted alum but also wanted some jingle in my pocket)
A (much needed) rear sliding window
-------------------------------------------
Still need:

Water pump
gaskets gaskets and more gaskets
driver window regulator
new seat belts
windshield
...and other stuff..

I should have just about everything delivered by next week. I'll post up some pics of the process. Wish me luck

(Pictured is my father-in-law that originally built and sold me the truck; Loading up the dolly to head to his shop)


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Old Feb 12, 2016 | 04:49 AM
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Colormatched valence and NOT glossy.. Is that original paint? I see no rust on bottom of the door, which would be obvious on that white finish. Also doesn't look like it has been dinged up on the front end at all.

Where has the truck been? SoCal, AZ, NM? Looks clean, and that generally means little frame rust. Good place to start! Nice.
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Old Feb 12, 2016 | 04:56 AM
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Man that's one of the nicest 79s I've seen. Very classic
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Old Feb 12, 2016 | 06:51 AM
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So they did come from the factory not all rusted up? Just kidding, that is a clean looking truck and you just don't see many in that condition anymore. Cool to see you getting to fix your first ride back up. Great find and welcome to Yotatech.
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Old Feb 12, 2016 | 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 83pingpong
Colormatched valence and NOT glossy.. Is that original paint? I see no rust on bottom of the door, which would be obvious on that white finish. Also doesn't look like it has been dinged up on the front end at all.

Where has the truck been? SoCal, AZ, NM? Looks clean, and that generally means little frame rust. Good place to start! Nice.
No rust ever. New Mexico. Used to be an awful yellow. I'll get some more pics up soon. I love this truck and I try to make sure I display my pride in ownership of it. I will say though that I don't baby it either. I use it for hauling heavy loads and offroading. I wouldn't trade it for anything
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Old Feb 12, 2016 | 08:47 PM
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Looks awesome....but with the parts just hanging out waiting would drive me CRAZY!!
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Old Feb 12, 2016 | 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by itsivxx
Looks awesome....but with the parts just hanging out waiting would drive me CRAZY!!
Man I'm losing sleep for exactly that reason.
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Old Feb 12, 2016 | 10:22 PM
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Radiator, water pump, and a boat-load of gaskets came in today. Tomorrow or Sunday I will start assembling what I can and start reorganizing wires. STAY TUNED!

This will be a "survivor" style build-up. No paint jobs, no hiding, no bull˟˟˟˟. It will just be clean and functional.
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Old Feb 12, 2016 | 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Terrys87
So they did come from the factory not all rusted up? Just kidding, that is a clean looking truck and you just don't see many in that condition anymore. Cool to see you getting to fix your first ride back up. Great find and welcome to Yotatech.
While researching, this forum came up time and time again. I HAD to join. Thanks for the warm welcome and I hope to contribute to the yota community as much as possible!
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Old Feb 12, 2016 | 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by bootscootboogie
Man that's one of the nicest 79s I've seen. Very classic
Yeah I hit the jackpot with this one I think. It's the 79 body with a 22R out of an '83 instead of the original 20R. 22RE valve cover, but whose pointing fingers, right?
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Old Feb 13, 2016 | 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by capillix
While researching, this forum came up time and time again. I HAD to join. Thanks for the warm welcome and I hope to contribute to the yota community as much as possible!

That's why I came in to look. Every time I made a Toyota Search, I was directed here. It was meant to be I think
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Old Feb 14, 2016 | 09:56 PM
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Awesome you kept it man!
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Old Feb 16, 2016 | 12:09 PM
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Nice score! I noticed it had a 22R, but does it also have a 5 speed? Or the original 4 speed?

Also, just a warning for you on that Weber 32/36 - there are "Genuine" Webers and what I consider "knock-off" Webers. The knock-offs are still technically Webers, but the quality is inferior to the Genuine Webers. If you aren't sure which one you bought, let me know where you got it from and I can likely tell you what you have or Google "22R Genuine Weber" and you will find the differences to look for. The primary issue with the knock-off Webers is that the throttle linkage is very sloppy and tends to bind up (I speak from experience) which can cause a lot of headaches in tuning and overall drive-ability. Cost-wise, they are both about it same and I have purchased my Genuine Webers from Carbs Unlimited for the same cost as the knock-offs.

Also, if you are looking for some good low end torque and power with that 261 RV Cam, you might be interested in stepping up to the Weber 38 DGES. I have had both (32/36 and the 38) on my 83 and I prefer the 38. Fuel economy is very slightly lower with the 38, but the torque, power and ease of tuning is far better.

Good luck with your truck and continue to keep us posted on your progress!
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Old Feb 16, 2016 | 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by kawazx636
Nice score! I noticed it had a 22R, but does it also have a 5 speed? Or the original 4 speed?

Also, just a warning for you on that Weber 32/36 - there are "Genuine" Webers and what I consider "knock-off" Webers. The knock-offs are still technically Webers, but the quality is inferior to the Genuine Webers. If you aren't sure which one you bought, let me know where you got it from and I can likely tell you what you have or Google "22R Genuine Weber" and you will find the differences to look for. The primary issue with the knock-off Webers is that the throttle linkage is very sloppy and tends to bind up (I speak from experience) which can cause a lot of headaches in tuning and overall drive-ability. Cost-wise, they are both about it same and I have purchased my Genuine Webers from Carbs Unlimited for the same cost as the knock-offs.

Also, if you are looking for some good low end torque and power with that 261 RV Cam, you might be interested in stepping up to the Weber 38 DGES. I have had both (32/36 and the 38) on my 83 and I prefer the 38. Fuel economy is very slightly lower with the 38, but the torque, power and ease of tuning is far better.

Good luck with your truck and continue to keep us posted on your progress!
4 speed. I'd like to find a 5 speed at some point. I purchased the carb from Pierce manifolds. Is there something I should look out for specifically? It's being delivered today
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Old Feb 16, 2016 | 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by capillix
4 speed. I'd like to find a 5 speed at some point. I purchased the carb from Pierce manifolds. Is there something I should look out for specifically? It's being delivered today
On the front of the carb housing (Fuel inlet side) directly below the air filter adapter there will be a Weber "W" logo. If that logo is raised and cast into the carb body then it is a genuine Weber. If it is a sticker then it is a "knock-off" Weber. If it is a knock off then I would send it back and find a genuine Weber. If you aren't sure, post a picture of the top of carb without the air cleaner on it and post it. I can tell you from that.
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Old Feb 16, 2016 | 06:18 PM
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Here's the dirty bastard fresh after removing the head. Going to replace the master cylinder and clean up the wiring too. It's ok to laugh at my foil cap.





Got the front cover and oil pump out. Wish i had a parts cleaner. Guess some elbow grease will have to do.





Chain guides are in good shape, just need to clean up the surfaces and apply the gaskets. I think my biggest endeavor will be cleaning with some degreaser and a pressure washer once it's put together XD
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Old Feb 16, 2016 | 06:59 PM
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I hope that timing chain isn't your final setting. That key slot of the cam sprocket should be straight up at 12 o'clock with the bright link straddling the dimple above the key slot. And the crank should be at TDC of the #1 stroke with the other bright link straddling the dimple on the crank sprocket in the 6 o'clock position. To keep the timing chain from jumping a tooth, zip tie the chain to the cam sprocket to hold it into position until you install the camshaft.
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Old Feb 17, 2016 | 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by kawazx636
I hope that timing chain isn't your final setting. That key slot of the cam sprocket should be straight up at 12 o'clock with the bright link straddling the dimple above the key slot. And the crank should be at TDC of the #1 stroke with the other bright link straddling the dimple on the crank sprocket in the 6 o'clock position. To keep the timing chain from jumping a tooth, zip tie the chain to the cam sprocket to hold it into position until you install the camshaft.
haha it just got moved around during dis-assembly. I still haven't opened up the carburetor and looked at at. Sure hope it's genuine as you say. If not, I'll send it back and possibly get a 38 if I can find a good price. In any case, I could probably get this thing running using a few soda cans and paper clips.

Last edited by capillix; Feb 17, 2016 at 07:05 AM.
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Old Feb 17, 2016 | 06:20 PM
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More items removed, more cleaning and polishing today. I wish I had more time during the day to work on it but I'm certainly not going to rush anything. I foresee using a lot of degreaser on this project. Yuck
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Old Feb 19, 2016 | 07:39 PM
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Almost there. Should be ready to fire up tomorrow. Then I'll re-adjust valves, clean up some wiring, and pressure wash.
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