82 Toyota Pickup Starting Problems
03-10-2014, 03:17 PM
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82 Toyota Pickup Starting Problems
Newbie here, I have tried searching and cannot find the exact answer to my question so I figured I would post it here.
I am in the process of restoring a 82 PU 4wd long bed. The truck was my father in laws. It has been sitting in the driveway for the past couple of years. It was running when parked but I am having trouble starting it now.
I can get the truck to run only by putting fuel in the carburetor. I believe that I might need a fuel pump but I also think the fuel line/tank is in need of cleaning. Where is a good place to start? Should I replace the fuel pump and filter and then use carb cleaner on the carb? Should I go ahead and drop and drain the tank?
Awesome site. Tons of great info.
Thanks for the help!
I am in the process of restoring a 82 PU 4wd long bed. The truck was my father in laws. It has been sitting in the driveway for the past couple of years. It was running when parked but I am having trouble starting it now.
I can get the truck to run only by putting fuel in the carburetor. I believe that I might need a fuel pump but I also think the fuel line/tank is in need of cleaning. Where is a good place to start? Should I replace the fuel pump and filter and then use carb cleaner on the carb? Should I go ahead and drop and drain the tank?
Awesome site. Tons of great info.
Thanks for the help!
03-11-2014, 06:19 AM
#2
Welcome to YotaTech and welcome to the addiction - we here are enablers so your addiction will only get worse! LOL
Here's the troubleshoot that I usually people new to these trucks (do it in these steps):
1-Start with the fuel source. If it has been sitting for a couple years, I would certainly recommend at least draining the tank. If you take the skid plate off, there is a drain bolt on the tank - it'll at least save you from having to completely drop the tank for the time being. Since there could be sediment in the tank, I would recommend getting a few gallons of fresh fuel and pour it in the filler while the plug is out to see if it washes out any debris or rust scale (you could use the old fuel, but I wouldn't if you don't have to since it is already most likely dirty). If you see a lot of rust coming out, it would be a good idea to drop the tank, throw a hand fuel of nuts, bolts and screws in it and shake it like hell to break loose all the rust (this worked great on my tank). Then possibly hit it with a fuel tank sealer treatment - I would avoid this if the rust isn't too bad since I have yet to really see a product that doesn't eventually peel over time inside the tank.
2-Then go to fuel delivery. Replace your fuel filters. REPLACE, not check - old fuel in fuel filters basically turns to varnish which can restrict all flow. They may look clean, but I bet if you cut them open the filter elements would be hard as a rock. Some trucks have two, some have one. They would be located on the frame rail below the filler door just in front of the fuel tank and/or on the passenger side fender wall near the windshield wiper motor. If you can't find them, then likely somebody in their infinite wisdom removed them at some point in time - just follow the fuel lines from the tank to the pump to the carb to be sure. Any generic fuel filter will work for a replacement. Personally, I use two of those see through performance filters with replaceable elements so I can see what's being filtered out.
3-Inspect your fuel lines. Typically the hard lines are ok, but if they look bad from the outside then they are probably bad on the inside. The rubber hoses usually deteriorate over time so it wouldn't be a bad idea to yank those and replace them. I use fuel injection hose to do mine since it is a little thicker and reinforced so it lasts longer. About 10-12 ft of hose will work. The factory hoses are metric which falls between 1/4" and 5/16" - I use 5/16"
4-I'm assuming it has the stock mechanical fuel pump - it would be located at the front of the head on the passenger side. There are 3 hoses going to the pump - fuel in, fuel out to the carb and a return to the tank. If it is a mechanical pump then you can check to see if it works by simply disconnecting the fuel hose going to the carb and cranking it over - it is mechanically driven off the cam so it will pump while the engine is cranking. Make sure you put the hose in a bottle or something so you don't get fuel everywhere. If it is pumping fuel then your fuel pump shouldn't be the issue - although replacing a fuel pump isn't a bad idea anyway. Most auto parts stores will have the fuel pump in stock.
5-Save the most complicated for last - the carb. If it has a stock carb then you may face some problems here if you aren't a carb guy. I've worked on all kinds of carbs on cars, trucks and motorcycles and the stock Toyota Aisin carb is the absolute worst to work on in my book. If you had it running by pouring fuel down the carb then you may not have too much of a problem and it may work it's self out, but more than likely the bowl is gummed up causing the float to stick and the jets may be a little varnished as well. A good dousing in carb cleaner may free it up, but you'll likely be looking at rebuilding the carb if it isn't running already after everything you did above. If you live in an area that does not have emissions then I would HIGHLY recommend getting a Weber 32/36 carb and desmogging the engine - it'll run a whole hell of a lot better in terms of power and fuel efficiency and it would get rid of that rats nest of vacuum lines you likely have under your hood. I have a desmogging thread that you can follow step by step here:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...torial-264405/
You're also going to want to download the Factory Service Manual (FSM). It is a must have for anybody working on these truck. Stephen has posted a download for the 1983 FSM which will work for everything on your 82 except for probably your wiring colors. Scope it out here:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...wnload-261385/
But like I said at the beginning, follow these steps in order. If you clean up the carb first and then realize that the fuel lines, tank, pump or filters are trashed then all the work you did on the carb is for not since all that gunk is just going to be fed right back into it.
Some extra things you may want to look at for basic tune up would be spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, PCV valve, timing, vacuum lines, etc.
Throw up some pictures too, we'd love to see this thing.
Good luck and let me know if you have any more questions!
Here's the troubleshoot that I usually people new to these trucks (do it in these steps):
1-Start with the fuel source. If it has been sitting for a couple years, I would certainly recommend at least draining the tank. If you take the skid plate off, there is a drain bolt on the tank - it'll at least save you from having to completely drop the tank for the time being. Since there could be sediment in the tank, I would recommend getting a few gallons of fresh fuel and pour it in the filler while the plug is out to see if it washes out any debris or rust scale (you could use the old fuel, but I wouldn't if you don't have to since it is already most likely dirty). If you see a lot of rust coming out, it would be a good idea to drop the tank, throw a hand fuel of nuts, bolts and screws in it and shake it like hell to break loose all the rust (this worked great on my tank). Then possibly hit it with a fuel tank sealer treatment - I would avoid this if the rust isn't too bad since I have yet to really see a product that doesn't eventually peel over time inside the tank.
2-Then go to fuel delivery. Replace your fuel filters. REPLACE, not check - old fuel in fuel filters basically turns to varnish which can restrict all flow. They may look clean, but I bet if you cut them open the filter elements would be hard as a rock. Some trucks have two, some have one. They would be located on the frame rail below the filler door just in front of the fuel tank and/or on the passenger side fender wall near the windshield wiper motor. If you can't find them, then likely somebody in their infinite wisdom removed them at some point in time - just follow the fuel lines from the tank to the pump to the carb to be sure. Any generic fuel filter will work for a replacement. Personally, I use two of those see through performance filters with replaceable elements so I can see what's being filtered out.
3-Inspect your fuel lines. Typically the hard lines are ok, but if they look bad from the outside then they are probably bad on the inside. The rubber hoses usually deteriorate over time so it wouldn't be a bad idea to yank those and replace them. I use fuel injection hose to do mine since it is a little thicker and reinforced so it lasts longer. About 10-12 ft of hose will work. The factory hoses are metric which falls between 1/4" and 5/16" - I use 5/16"
4-I'm assuming it has the stock mechanical fuel pump - it would be located at the front of the head on the passenger side. There are 3 hoses going to the pump - fuel in, fuel out to the carb and a return to the tank. If it is a mechanical pump then you can check to see if it works by simply disconnecting the fuel hose going to the carb and cranking it over - it is mechanically driven off the cam so it will pump while the engine is cranking. Make sure you put the hose in a bottle or something so you don't get fuel everywhere. If it is pumping fuel then your fuel pump shouldn't be the issue - although replacing a fuel pump isn't a bad idea anyway. Most auto parts stores will have the fuel pump in stock.
5-Save the most complicated for last - the carb. If it has a stock carb then you may face some problems here if you aren't a carb guy. I've worked on all kinds of carbs on cars, trucks and motorcycles and the stock Toyota Aisin carb is the absolute worst to work on in my book. If you had it running by pouring fuel down the carb then you may not have too much of a problem and it may work it's self out, but more than likely the bowl is gummed up causing the float to stick and the jets may be a little varnished as well. A good dousing in carb cleaner may free it up, but you'll likely be looking at rebuilding the carb if it isn't running already after everything you did above. If you live in an area that does not have emissions then I would HIGHLY recommend getting a Weber 32/36 carb and desmogging the engine - it'll run a whole hell of a lot better in terms of power and fuel efficiency and it would get rid of that rats nest of vacuum lines you likely have under your hood. I have a desmogging thread that you can follow step by step here:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...torial-264405/
You're also going to want to download the Factory Service Manual (FSM). It is a must have for anybody working on these truck. Stephen has posted a download for the 1983 FSM which will work for everything on your 82 except for probably your wiring colors. Scope it out here:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...wnload-261385/
But like I said at the beginning, follow these steps in order. If you clean up the carb first and then realize that the fuel lines, tank, pump or filters are trashed then all the work you did on the carb is for not since all that gunk is just going to be fed right back into it.
Some extra things you may want to look at for basic tune up would be spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, PCV valve, timing, vacuum lines, etc.
Throw up some pictures too, we'd love to see this thing.
Good luck and let me know if you have any more questions!
Last edited by kawazx636; 03-11-2014 at 06:26 AM.
03-11-2014, 08:28 AM
#4
Registered User
Weekend? You're a lot faster worker than I am! I should probably drain and rinse my gas tank. I didn't know they had a drain plug until I saw Kawa's post above.
I'll just mention again how much I love working under 4WDs compared to 2WDs. Lots of room.
I'll just mention again how much I love working under 4WDs compared to 2WDs. Lots of room.
03-11-2014, 06:07 PM
#5
If you have questions on the stock carb just let me know. I rebuilt mine with a kit from LCE and it runs good now and also is de-smoggedl. But it is a PITA to try and tune the fuel/air ratio on these things. Best thing to do for is completely ignore how it smells while idling and only pay attention to it while driving highway speeds. My advice would be to tune it lean first and then go make several passes at highway speeds slowing increasing the fuel ratio each time to where it gets to where it doesn't help anymore and then back it down a 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Make sure your timing is at 5 degrees as well.
Last edited by 83Toyota88; 03-11-2014 at 06:09 PM.
04-18-2014, 07:30 AM
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thanks kawazx636, not my thread, but i just got my '82 'Yota about a week ago and the home mechanic had pretty much rebuilt the carb without doing anything else to it. Also, kept the battery. Mine apparently starts, but the second you take your foot off the gas, it dies. It DOES require a shot of fuel to start though. Mines 2WD though (inherited truck, not bought). Question for anybody, I am missing the HAU hose. My '83 chevy did not require one, does the 'yota?
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