Hey yotatech members! I'm 17 and it's time for my senior project! I will be converting my toyota to run off of propane. My question is it wouldn't hurt anything to break a engine in on propane??! I blew My last engine, With 320k miles on it. ( not foolin around luckily . ) So I just had a new one built with hyper tech pistons, 268 cam, and Steel timing chain guides. Can I run this with the gotpropane conversion kit on a new engine! Thanks in advance! My community part of the project is to document everything with pictures and notes then write my own thread on the swap. Then list all the pros and cons I have noticed. All on yotatech

 

Should be good to go with the gotpropane conversion they make good stuff just make sure you have hardened valve seats

 

Right on. I there any kind of oil that's better 2 run with propane or it's the same as gas that way. I know ur Engine runs cooler with propane and there is alot less carbon in it so ur oil never turns black... I wanna go synthetic but is there that much of a advantage running synthetic?

 

Not sure if it's true or B.S., but I was told to break the engine in on dino oil the first 3-5k, then go to synth. I like running redline oil, expencive and can be hard to find local, but I like it a lot. If nothin else, when you change out your manual trans oil, swap to redline MT90. These old transmissions love the stuff.

I don't know much about the propane conv, but I would imagine it would be fine as long as your tuned properly (ie. A/F ratio, timing, ect).

Cool senior proj. Good luck.

 

Do not use synthetic to break it in. Use the ole Dino stuff. I'd also recommend a break in additive.

I run synthetic in my 3.4 and love it. I'm at 4,000 mile on oil change and it's just starting to darken up. Truck runs smoother and better fuel mileage

 

I went to muller engines and he gave me 3 gallons of rotella and a additive o break it in. But after that I will switch to synthetic.

 

Most Rotella oils are for diesel engines have cleansing agents in them. Only Rotella Triple Protection 10W-30 is formulated to meet the requirements of API SAE SJ, SL and SM engine oils for gas engines. But I still wouldn't use it for engine break in. I use a quality 10W-30 conventional oil with a Zinc break in additive for breaking in engines. I have used Rotella 15W-40 for older engines because the higher viscosity helps to keep up oil pressure and reduce blow by.

 

Definitely want a zinc additive or oil to break in that new Cam

 

I have a zinc additive for that! Thanks

 

the main advantage of synthetic? how about 12k between oil changes? if i stay with this 22r when it finally needs rebuilding, i'll use nothing but synthetic.

 

Rotella oil already has Zinc in it. It is highly recommended by several engines builders to run the Rotella 15/40 oil. I broke my engine in using Rotella 15/40 and it's been just fine up until I sold the truck. From break in I ran 500 mile on engine then replaced the oil. Between the 500 mile to 3500 mile I used almost a complete quart of oil. Upon changing the oil the 2nd time I switched it over to the Rotella synthetic oil. The new owner still uses the same oil to this day and the little 22RE ticks right along as good as it did the day I bought the engine.

Now my T100 is getting the Mobile One synthetic. Only because of my sources of getting it lol. However I've always used rottella in all my vehicles including my wife's 01 Suzuki XL7

 

That's retarded. I'd never ever run 12k on one oil change. I've never went past 6k and I felt that was pushing it. I try to change mine at 3-4k sometimes 5k if money's tight.

 

I went to muller engines in Lagrande or. He gives 3 gallons of rotella to every person he sells a engine 2. He said normally when u give them rotella to begin with they normally will stick with it. He also advised to switch to rotella synthetic as well.

 

negative, changing ones oil every 3k is retarded.


http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...AQs.aspx#FAQs6

http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/stop...-your-oil.html

http://toyota.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/7604

 

Ehh I will stick with my normal routine. I feel more comfortable the way I do it. Maybe I will hit 500K since I'm keeping fresh oil in her.

 

don't get me wrong, the conventional oil in my yota gets changed at LEAST every 3k if not moreso (depending on wheeling habits). It's old and needs the added love cuz i've yet to rebuild it.
My car uses 7qts of full synthetic, I change it every 8k(ish) due to how I drive it, but if i grannied it i'd do it at 12k with no worries.
I know many dudes that auto-cross and/or drag race their cars and still change it every 12k, but again that's synthetic not conventional.

 

Oil is always a conflicting topic. Everyone has there own preferences. As stated I've always ran Rotella 15/40 and all the local engine builders around here say the same. I would still be using Rotella if I wasn't getting my Mobile One for free. As stated earlier the Rotella already has zinc In it which is why most people run it in older engines as someone else stated. The Rotella seems to keep my engine lubricated really well and the color stays nice and golden longer periods of time then some of the other brands. Rotella is also $10 a gallon here at my walmart lol I also run K&N or factory Toyota oil filters. I'd never use a fram. I prefer the factory filter as several others here will say the same but I believe the K&N is better then the factory. It's also slightly larger then the factory filter which is a plus in my book. Good luck with you conversion.

 

Exactly and I've seen it advertised for 8k+ ya know I'm just not comfortable with it. As I grew up the surrounding family and such always ran conventional and changed it at 3k so I kinda fell in behind them. As far as I know I'm the only member if the family that has ran synthetic and I just started about 1 year ago. So I'm still getting use to that. I will say that I'm highly surprised with the Mobile One and I will continue using it even if I have to start buying it lol. It's nice to check your oil at 3K and it doesn't look like black water lol. Nice and GOLDEN.

 

I know synthetic won't break down as fast as Dino (the molecular structure) but it doesnt mean it should be changed so far out, the oil also is collecting metel and carbon deposits and should still be changed often to limit those deposits doing damage to bearings etc. Atleast that's how I see it.. You can run longer before changes and not have problems, atleast in the short term, but what makes a motor last 400k miles and what makes one last only 200k. I think more frequent changes will make the motor go farther but again it's all speculative and also preference.

 

I have heard of putting magnets on your oil filter to pull the medal out of your oil.. Any truth to this??? I was just curious while we are on this topic