could it be because its not shimmed right? the solenoid is new so no worn contacts and it does it when only the battery wire is on you can take the control wire off and it wont stop. i wonder if it is stuck engaged?

 

Assuming "new" = "rebuilt", and no telling what that actually means as far as any actual new parts being inside the starter or it being assembled properly. Have heard of many "rebuilt" starters having worn out parts out of the box:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...epairVsReplace

One purpose of the solenoid is to make electrical contact between the battery + wire and the starter motor, if that is happening all the time, then something is wrong inside. If "new", take it back for working starter or tear it apart and figure out what is wrong. Could be the wrong contacts were installed and are shorting to the internal wiring. Or it may be as simple as the plunger being stuck down and it just needs to be loosened up and cleaned a bit to work smoothly.

 

Its alive!!!

 

Dang man that didn't take very long. Awesome!

 

Well still needs some touch up and all just got to crank it up and listen to it

 

Travis do you have trouble with your headers getting your starter to hot

 

Yeah I have some trouble with it getting hot. Always starts but I had cooked some insulation on my wires to the starter. I have now changed my starter to a mini and changed my exhaust. It's got a little more room now so I'll see if it helps when I get it running again. I thought about wrapping the starter or exhaust. Might still do it later.

 

well i thought the mini starter as well but with the toyota slave cylinder where it is i can't put a mini starter on because of the line running to it. I have manifolds on it now but frame is in the way of running any exhaust past that so i have some shorty headers i'm going to put on and guess do some wire wrapping starter and header

 

I'll post a few pics of how my starter and exhaust are when I get home tonight.

 

Ok thanks

 

 

Can you put add a leaf on the front?

 

Maybe yes, maybe no. With stock steering, there is very little clearance at the steering drag link/steering arm and the driver's side spring u-bolts. So you are really limited in what will fit in there without binding up the steering. I recall running a thin stock leaf under an aftermarket 3-leaf pack for a while:

 

I'm wondering because after i swapped with a 350 my front dropped so i was thinking bout just some add a leaf on the front for about 2"

 

Check the clearance at the drag link and u-bolts and see how much room you have and then make sure the AAL is thinner than that. I think the '83 and older trucks might have had a bit more clearance there, but I have never looked really close.

You can also swap an existing leaf for a stiffer one, so keep the same number of leaves but replace a softer one with a stiffer one. If you go to crossover steering, you can run a thicker leaf pack up front as there is more clearance over the springs.

 

What is the difference between,the front and rear springs

 

Length, location of center bolt hole, number of leaves and spring rate mostly:
- http://4x4spot.com/misc__spring_information.htm
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspension.shtml#PhaseII
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspe...#CustomSprings

 

would these help lift the front up you think
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251002184519

 

came to a problem today as I'm trying to put power steering on the truck. I can not find any lines that convert from the toyota gear box to chevy pump and reservoir. So can a toyota pump and reservoir bolt up to a chevy 350 or do they make some lines somewhere that i have not found yet

 

I think you can have lines made or someone should make some. I used a Toyota ifs box and a Toyota pump and just built a bracket to mount it to my 350.