Magic blends of pentrating oil.
#1
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Magic blends of pentrating oil.
A friend and I have been using an apparently "magic" blend of different garage found fluids for years. Aptly named "Shrek" it includes PB, used 10w-30, a little 80-90 gear oil and some anti-freeze. I'm not sure why it works so well, but we picked up this method in high school from the shop teacher who swore by it.
Does anyone else use something similar?
Before someone tears into me, I specifically only used this on metal and away from anything rubber, plastic or otherwise.
I'm just wondering how common this idea is.
Does anyone else use something similar?
Before someone tears into me, I specifically only used this on metal and away from anything rubber, plastic or otherwise.
I'm just wondering how common this idea is.
#3
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I use an "EeL Snot" mix of 75/25 75 atf and 25 acetone. it works awesome on exhaust bolts/nuts. Be careful what container you put it in it can melt through certain plastics.
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Its like a high powered wd40, on cocaine, with a supercharger.
I keep my brew in a metal container with a biohazard sticker on it.
#5
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Haha nice it sounds like you need to wear a biohazard class A just to use it. My lethal toxic mix is in a home depot chemical sparay bottle with no tip( cuz its so friggin thick) mines just labeled eel snot lol. i should put one of my hazmat stickers on there. thx for the idea tho
#7
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I like paraffin wax, melted into the threads. Heat up the fastener to the point the wax will melt and even smoke a bit. Then touch the wax to the fastener, let it melt and the heat will suck the melted wax into the threads and finally let it cool then remove. Used this on some frozen exhaust manifold studs that PB Blaster and Kroil would not touch.
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#8
I've tried mixing ATF and acetone for a cleaner for cutting carbon on firearms but never mixing it with a cornucopia of other garage chemicals for a penetrating oil. I may have to try this....
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I want to thank you guys.
Today I replaced my leaky exhaust manifold gasket. My mechanic had said he didn't want the job, as the Y pipe bolts had been such a pain.
I mixed up ATF and acetone, 2 to 1, in a pump oiler can. With the engine still pretty warm from running some errands, I dosed all 10 bolt heads/stud nuts. Five minutes later I did it again. I paid special attention to make sure I got the back one well, as it's hard to see.
Then I got my sockets together, working with a 14mm deep well, a regular extension, and occasionally the U-joint extension, I got them all loose. Then I dosed them again. Then I took them all out. Some came with the stud, and some kept the stud and just let go the nut. The back one started to feel like it might seize, so I dosed it again, and it came out.
The air injector tube came right off when I pulled gently, then the manifold came off far enough to clear the studs. (I hadn't removed the manifold from the Y pipe) I cleaned the surfaces lightly with a razor scraper and put the new gaskets in, put the removed hardware back on, and tightened everything down.
All is nice and quiet now. The old gasket shows erosion at the bottoms of the #3 and #4 cylinder exhaust ports.
So thank you. You made this task possible.
Today I replaced my leaky exhaust manifold gasket. My mechanic had said he didn't want the job, as the Y pipe bolts had been such a pain.
I mixed up ATF and acetone, 2 to 1, in a pump oiler can. With the engine still pretty warm from running some errands, I dosed all 10 bolt heads/stud nuts. Five minutes later I did it again. I paid special attention to make sure I got the back one well, as it's hard to see.
Then I got my sockets together, working with a 14mm deep well, a regular extension, and occasionally the U-joint extension, I got them all loose. Then I dosed them again. Then I took them all out. Some came with the stud, and some kept the stud and just let go the nut. The back one started to feel like it might seize, so I dosed it again, and it came out.
The air injector tube came right off when I pulled gently, then the manifold came off far enough to clear the studs. (I hadn't removed the manifold from the Y pipe) I cleaned the surfaces lightly with a razor scraper and put the new gaskets in, put the removed hardware back on, and tightened everything down.
All is nice and quiet now. The old gasket shows erosion at the bottoms of the #3 and #4 cylinder exhaust ports.
So thank you. You made this task possible.
Last edited by Scomber; 11-03-2012 at 04:36 PM.
#17
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My trick for rusted bolts is to heat them with a torch, then hit them with PB or Kroil - It smokes like crazy and sometimes catches on fire, but the sudden cooling pulls the the penetrant into the threads. Do this two or three times, go shut off the smoke alarm, apologize to the wife and kids and neighbors, and that bolt will ease right out...
#19
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Hi
used the blend of atf and actone on a power steering bolt. took 2 weeks to get loose even with a 3 foot box tube extension on rachet handle. came out clean as a whistle.
used the blend of atf and actone on a power steering bolt. took 2 weeks to get loose even with a 3 foot box tube extension on rachet handle. came out clean as a whistle.
#20
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I've always been a fan of ATF and electric turbine lube as a mix. thin enough to penetrate most anywhere and provides lots of "lubing action" in tight places.
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