Runner won't idle
#1
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Runner won't idle
Well I am scratching my head. I have a stock 97 3.4L 4runner and it goes dead at idle. I have cleaned the throttle body, there is no "check engine" light. Alternator checked good along with the battery. I had the codes checked at a garage and there are no codes. I have checked the throttle position switch with a volt/ohm meter and checks good.
I am still scratching my head.
I just finished a great day 4wheeling in the mountains and I stop at a stop sign in town and it goes dead. Then it dies at every stop. It will start but only after turning it over quite a bit.
I have done a search, but no help so far.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
I am still scratching my head.
I just finished a great day 4wheeling in the mountains and I stop at a stop sign in town and it goes dead. Then it dies at every stop. It will start but only after turning it over quite a bit.
I have done a search, but no help so far.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
#6
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Well it is fixed. The pulley on the crank shaft was
loose and the sensor could not get a good reading
on the cranl pulley.
But it i idling fine and running great. Thanks for all
the input on the problem.
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Hadn't even thought of that. Makes sense since you don't have a distributor the ECM needs that crank position sensor to set the ignition advance and fuel injection.
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#8
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I discovered it by accident. I was just grabbing stuff and
wiggling it to see if anything was loose and the pulley looked suspicious.
Tightened it up with a little LockTite and it was good to go.
If anything strange will happen, it will happen to me.
wiggling it to see if anything was loose and the pulley looked suspicious.
Tightened it up with a little LockTite and it was good to go.
If anything strange will happen, it will happen to me.
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Have you ever had the timing belt replaced? It sounds like another improper pulley bolt installation.
That bolt needs to be torqued to 250 NM which a lot of torque. Anything less then that it can back out and if the pulley backs off of the woodruff key it can destroy the pulley and the cranksaft.
There is a special took that is needed to tighten that pulley bolt and it is almost impossible to do so without it.
Gadget
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That bolt needs to be torqued to 250 NM which a lot of torque. Anything less then that it can back out and if the pulley backs off of the woodruff key it can destroy the pulley and the cranksaft.
There is a special took that is needed to tighten that pulley bolt and it is almost impossible to do so without it.
Gadget
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Thanks Gadget,
I have replaced the timing belt recently. I will
check on that tomorrow and see what happens.
It is still running okay now.
I have replaced the timing belt recently. I will
check on that tomorrow and see what happens.
It is still running okay now.
#13
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If you do not properly torque that pulley bolt if can cost you a crankshaft. 250 NM is a lot of torque and that is what it needs.
Gadget
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Gadget
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#14
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You are gonna need at least a chain wrench (put a piece of old serpentine belt under it to prevent damage to the pulley) and a big ass breaker bar (3 ft at least) to get that bolt on there tight enuf. Like Gadget said, if you don't and it comes lose and spins inside the pulley, you will definately be out of pocket some serious $$$$$$$
Last edited by MTL_4runner; 10-02-2003 at 03:30 PM.
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If it would just fall off there would not be so much damage. The other belts seem to hold the pulley from coming all the way off.
If the pulley pulls out just about 3/8" it will disengage from the woodruff key and then the crank will spin inside the pulley tearing up the pulley and the crankshaft. It is easy to replace the pulley, it is the crankshaft that gets a bit expensive.
Gadget
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If the pulley pulls out just about 3/8" it will disengage from the woodruff key and then the crank will spin inside the pulley tearing up the pulley and the crankshaft. It is easy to replace the pulley, it is the crankshaft that gets a bit expensive.
Gadget
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