locking hubs not working
03-11-2012, 06:21 PM
#1
locking hubs not working
i just got a 87 yoda 4x4 and the front wheels arent locking in in 4wd. i know its not the tranny/differential , you can hear and feel the gears go into place with no problem.
the guy i bought it from said it was driven with one hub locked and now the 4wd doesnt work. i dont know if he meant driven in 2 or 4wd. he said all i should need to do is replace the 2 front locking hubs. does this sound right?
or is it possible that it damaged some of the gears or something inside of the axle? or something else. im pretty new to these trucks so any info will help. i dont want to replace the hubs and then realize after that something else inside was shot too. thank you!
the guy i bought it from said it was driven with one hub locked and now the 4wd doesnt work. i dont know if he meant driven in 2 or 4wd. he said all i should need to do is replace the 2 front locking hubs. does this sound right?
or is it possible that it damaged some of the gears or something inside of the axle? or something else. im pretty new to these trucks so any info will help. i dont want to replace the hubs and then realize after that something else inside was shot too. thank you!
03-12-2012, 05:55 PM
#2
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Hubs shouldn't be shot from driving with one locked and one unlocked - it happens. Being an 87, I assume it has manual locking hubs. Are they the original Aisin hubs? If so, taking them apart to service them is your best bet. They are one of the best hubs made so I would consider going that route instead of replacing them. Check out a FSM for details on how to do them. Pay particular attention to the springs inside when disassembling, they are often the culprit - that and a po that never serviced them.
Last edited by rworegon; 08-19-2014 at 03:55 PM.
03-12-2012, 06:08 PM
#3
yes they are aisin manual locking hubs, thanks for the info.
Id rather not rebuild them, i was just planning on ordering some warns, as i hear theyre great too. how much would the aisins be worth if i sold em?
also the main thing im worried about is if there could be other damage besides the hubs? or does it sound like fixing those would do it for me?
Id rather not rebuild them, i was just planning on ordering some warns, as i hear theyre great too. how much would the aisins be worth if i sold em?
also the main thing im worried about is if there could be other damage besides the hubs? or does it sound like fixing those would do it for me?
03-12-2012, 06:23 PM
#6
I guess im weird, i dont like trusting used/rebuilt things, id rather just have it new, money isnt a problem. yes it is IFS.
and as far as going into gear, it doesnt make any noises or anything, it feels and sounds exactly how it should, so i know its not the tranny/transfercase. and it still drives, it just wont actually spin the front wheels.
what the seller told me was the hubs are shot and it will actually lock once i put new ones on
and as far as going into gear, it doesnt make any noises or anything, it feels and sounds exactly how it should, so i know its not the tranny/transfercase. and it still drives, it just wont actually spin the front wheels.
what the seller told me was the hubs are shot and it will actually lock once i put new ones on
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03-12-2012, 06:32 PM
#8
Aisin hubs are not that complicated to repair and/or fix.
Aisin manual hubs are much better for your truck as WARN makes a lot of great products, but locking hubs for Toyotas ain't one of them.
It could be something as simple as a big spring in upside down. Throwing money at new hubs doesn't guarantee to fix anything. You should get someone who knows what they are looking at to inspect them and know for sure.
You would be much better offer fixing your Aisins that are 20+ years old than buying new WARNS.
Aisin manual hubs are much better for your truck as WARN makes a lot of great products, but locking hubs for Toyotas ain't one of them.
It could be something as simple as a big spring in upside down. Throwing money at new hubs doesn't guarantee to fix anything. You should get someone who knows what they are looking at to inspect them and know for sure.
You would be much better offer fixing your Aisins that are 20+ years old than buying new WARNS.
Last edited by rworegon; 08-19-2014 at 03:56 PM.
03-12-2012, 06:37 PM
#9
well if thats true, i wouldnt mind doing that. i can send them in for 120 bucks, not too bad.
i dont see how the spring could get upside down or whatever though, he never took them off.
he said he left one locked and one unlocked and that messed them up and now it wont go into 4wd.
i dont see how the spring could get upside down or whatever though, he never took them off.
he said he left one locked and one unlocked and that messed them up and now it wont go into 4wd.
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B.E (03-01-2023)
03-12-2012, 06:52 PM
#12
All the manual hubs do is lock the tire to the axle, nothing more. Locking one side just locks that one side. Other side the tire is still just spinning but not connected to the axle.
Do both CVs turn when you put it in 4WD? If so then it's a hub. If not then you got other issues.
www.ncttora.com/fsm
Look here and see how the 4WD and manual hubs all work together.
:wabbit2:
Do both CVs turn when you put it in 4WD? If so then it's a hub. If not then you got other issues.
www.ncttora.com/fsm
Look here and see how the 4WD and manual hubs all work together.
:wabbit2:
03-12-2012, 07:02 PM
#13
Can i put it in 4wd unlocked and neutral and give it gas and see if its turning? Or am i going to need to have someone down watching for me while its rolling ? sounds dangerous lol.
sorry for my lack of knowledge im probably being a pain
sorry for my lack of knowledge im probably being a pain
03-12-2012, 07:51 PM
#14
If you have someone watch from the front while you put in in 4 low, 1st gear and creep forward with the front hubs unlocked. See if the outer axle shafts/CVs are turning or not. Or another test is to lift a front tire in the air and spin the wheel back and forth with hub unlocked and locked and see if locking the hub causes the CV axle to spin or not. Repeat on opposite side and you'll know if the hubs are locking or not.
I once drove home from a wheeling trip, about 400 miles and it was not until some time later that I found I had left one hub locked. I could not feel anything from the front on the way home nor did anything happen.
I once drove home from a wheeling trip, about 400 miles and it was not until some time later that I found I had left one hub locked. I could not feel anything from the front on the way home nor did anything happen.
03-13-2012, 03:57 AM
#15
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USMC - wabfab and 4crawler are two of the more knowledgeable people you will find on here related to these issues. They are telling you exactly what I would have. I've had my hubs off several times in the process of rebuilding and they are not complicated. I had to do it twice because I didn't understand the importance of completely rebuilding the hub when it was off the first time and tried to use used parts. I completely agree with wabfab on the Aisin vs. warn issue. I would 10000x rather have a used aisin hub than a brand new warn. Nothing against warn and their products, just that the aisin's are that good.
If the "rolling test" makes you nervous here is another test to make sure it's not t-case or diff problem: Lift both wheels of front of truck off ground. Put truck in 4lo and 1st gear, crawl under truck and turn the front driveshaft by hand. If the diff and t-case are good, you will see the outer axle shaft (CV) turning at the front wheels. Do this with the hubs unlocked. If they turn all is good except the hubs. Now try locking the hubs and turning the wheel itself. If it doesn't turn, the hubs are fine and lock.
Good luck and happy learning. It may take a while to get a few bugs worked out of your "new" rig, but once you do it will all be worth the effort.
If the "rolling test" makes you nervous here is another test to make sure it's not t-case or diff problem: Lift both wheels of front of truck off ground. Put truck in 4lo and 1st gear, crawl under truck and turn the front driveshaft by hand. If the diff and t-case are good, you will see the outer axle shaft (CV) turning at the front wheels. Do this with the hubs unlocked. If they turn all is good except the hubs. Now try locking the hubs and turning the wheel itself. If it doesn't turn, the hubs are fine and lock.
Good luck and happy learning. It may take a while to get a few bugs worked out of your "new" rig, but once you do it will all be worth the effort.
If $ isnt a problem, maybe give me ur 87, and go buy a 2012 yota 
03-16-2012, 06:36 PM
#17
thanks for all the help guys, i did those little tests finally, and its the passenger side hub that not locking. ill send the hubs in to have them redone soon. appreciate it!
03-16-2012, 10:31 PM
#18
Registered User
I has a problem with a set I pulled off a roller a few years ago. It didn't lock correctly, and Just as Wabbit said, the large spring was incorrectly installed and hung up. I beat the hell out of that truck without a single hub problem after that. I think Wabbit was the one who told me how to fix it too.
05-05-2022, 05:42 PM
#19
Removing Locking Hubs Cone Washers
Aloha everyone!
I have an 89' 22re 4x4 pickup and I'm in the process of changing my original brake rotors and brake pads. Also thinking about changing the calipers too...
First of all, does anyone have a solid method on how to remove the six cone washers off the hub??? I've tried a brass bar on the stud with a hammer and even used a rubber mallet to try and hit around the hub hoping to free the cone washers but I haven't had any luck. Its just soo rusty its ridiculous. I just seem to add dents to the hub and studs so I just stopped... if anyone has any ideas on how to remove them any help would be greatly appreciated.
Also, if I buy a new pair of brake calipers, do they come with the pins and wire thingys to hold the pads together?
I have an 89' 22re 4x4 pickup and I'm in the process of changing my original brake rotors and brake pads. Also thinking about changing the calipers too...
First of all, does anyone have a solid method on how to remove the six cone washers off the hub??? I've tried a brass bar on the stud with a hammer and even used a rubber mallet to try and hit around the hub hoping to free the cone washers but I haven't had any luck. Its just soo rusty its ridiculous. I just seem to add dents to the hub and studs so I just stopped... if anyone has any ideas on how to remove them any help would be greatly appreciated.
Also, if I buy a new pair of brake calipers, do they come with the pins and wire thingys to hold the pads together?
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Kauai 89' Yota (05-05-2022)
