V8TOY

BRAKES BLEEDING ME DRY!!!!!


First of all this site is awesome! I too have fell victim to the (mushy pedal) it all started when I bought the runner 6 years ago. But I just recently realized how bad it really was so first replaced some questionable hard lines to the lspv, and then the m/c. No change in pedal. So new wheel cylinders and shoes with proper adj/ and bleeding, no change.Next on the list brake booster, guess what? no change. I am to the point that I am loosing sleep over this. I also capped off the rear line from the m/c and where the front line tees off from the pass/ side to the lspv and bled the front brakes, the front held good/ better pressure without the rear brakes hooked up. so then i capped the m/c entirely to check pedal press/ and it held good, to me this eliminates the m/c / booster and any adjustments on them that could cause them to act up.So now I priced a lspv from the dealer cause there is no aftermarket, just a little pricey for me to replace on a hunch $290 to $360. So to rule the lspv out I capped the front line at the tee on the pass/side going to the lspv and removed the rear line going to the lspv and ran the rear line directly to the tee/splitter on the rear axel. And nothing changed what a surprise. So I "bench bled" the m/c again but on the truck I noticed that the first half of the m/c strike the rear line of the m/c got pressure but the front did not, second half the stroke front line of the m/c got pressure but not the rear. I do not know if this is the way it should work or not does any one know ?PLEASE ANY IDEAS WELCOME I AM AT MY WITTS END HERE AND IT SOUNDS LIKE I AM NOT ALONE!

V8TOY

First of all this site is awesome! I too have fell victim to the (mushy pedal) it all started when I bought the runner 6 years ago. But I just recently realized how bad it really was so first replaced some questionable hard lines to the lspv, and then the m/c. No change in pedal. So new wheel cylinders and shoes with proper adj/ and bleeding, no change.Next on the list brake booster, guess what? no change. I am to the point that I am loosing sleep over this. I also capped off the rear line from the m/c and where the front line tees off from the pass/ side to the lspv and bled the front brakes, the front held good/ better pressure without the rear brakes hooked up. so then i capped the m/c entirely to check pedal press/ and it held good, to me this eliminates the m/c / booster and any adjustments on them that could cause them to act up.So now I priced a lspv from the dealer cause there is no aftermarket, just a little pricey for me to replace on a hunch $290 to $360. So to rule the lspv out I capped the front line at the tee on the pass/side going to the lspv and removed the rear line going to the lspv and ran the rear line directly to the tee/splitter on the rear axel. And nothing changed what a surprise. So I "bench bled" the m/c again but on the truck I noticed that the first half of the m/c strike the rear line of the m/c got pressure but the front did not, second half the stroke front line of the m/c got pressure but not the rear. I do not know if this is the way it should work or not does any one know ?PLEASE ANY IDEAS WELCOME I AM AT MY WITTS END HERE AND IT SOUNDS LIKE I AM NOT ALONE!

kenbo53

i know you said you have the rear brakes set up corectly but i had the same problem and thought the mc was going bad but luckily i tryed that first. i adjusted mine out till the drums were a little tight to slide on but once they were on you could hear them draging on the shoes but not really feel any resistance

yotaman85

your brake booster diaphragm might have a leak in it.

Ilovemountains

I have the same questions, mine did the same thing when I bench bled the new master!! I dont know what would cause this, Im tempted to buy the aftermarket bigger MC and see it makes a difference... Its scary and frustrating at the same time!