Removing the double cardan U-Joints
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Tejas
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Removing the double cardan U-Joints
I've read the "U-joint" articles on 4x4wire and Pirate4x4, but I still have a question.
Is there a certain method(area) to smack the 2 U-Joints out the double cardan joint?
There really isn't much room to smack the yokes, and I feel like I'm taking alot of metal off the driveshaft.
Is there a certain method(area) to smack the 2 U-Joints out the double cardan joint?
There really isn't much room to smack the yokes, and I feel like I'm taking alot of metal off the driveshaft.
#2
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Tejas
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bump.
I just contacted my local Stealership and they informed me that they don't even replace the U-Joints in the double-cardan.
They replace the whole double-cardan itself: $900.
Should I not have taken apart this driveshaft or does Toyota feel that they can just charge more and save time by replacing the whole shebang?
Has anyone even taken apart a 3rd gen(4WD) driveshaft on here?
I just contacted my local Stealership and they informed me that they don't even replace the U-Joints in the double-cardan.
They replace the whole double-cardan itself: $900.
Should I not have taken apart this driveshaft or does Toyota feel that they can just charge more and save time by replacing the whole shebang?
Has anyone even taken apart a 3rd gen(4WD) driveshaft on here?
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Prague Okla.
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just had my repaired on my 98 4R. The stealership told me the same thing. I looked all ove Oklahoma City, trying to find someone to replace the CV-Ball. That is what was wore out on mine. I found a place in OKC call Blumenthal Performance. Their # is 405-552-8688. I took mine to them, and they did'nt even blink twice. They replaced all 3 U-Joints plus the CV-Ball, balanced and painted it for $126. I did'nt argue with that. The dealer ship told me they don't repair them. They put a new Drive shaft in. I hope this helps.
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Prague Okla.
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had a vibration when I got over 65mph. It took me a while to narrow it down to the CV-Ball. While it was still on the truck, I crawled under it and pushed and pulled on the drive shaft. I had very little play in the drive shaft. I trcked it down to the front of the drive shaft. I got a flsh light and shined it up to where I though the play was coming from. It turned out to be in the CV-Ball. It was only about 1/32 of an inch. When I took it off the truck I could'nt get it to move at all. So I drove the truck in 4WD with out the rear drive shaft in. I had no vibration. So, Even though it was'nt much. It was enough to vibrate. I know this was kind of long, but I hope it helps. Tommy
#6
Contributing Member
iTrader: (3)
Some information on this page:
- http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/cvmod/
I tried to tear one apart and gave up after a few hours. I took it to my local driveshaft shop and they fixed it up for about $100 including new parts. Well worth the money spent IMHO.
- http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/cvmod/
I tried to tear one apart and gave up after a few hours. I took it to my local driveshaft shop and they fixed it up for about $100 including new parts. Well worth the money spent IMHO.
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Tejas
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks guys.
Is there a site I can get the U-Joints with the zerks on the caps?
The joints I have, are the ones with the zerks that come out from the center of the cross. I'm not sure if there will be clearance issues or not.
Is there a site I can get the U-Joints with the zerks on the caps?
The joints I have, are the ones with the zerks that come out from the center of the cross. I'm not sure if there will be clearance issues or not.
Trending Topics
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: In the Kootenays
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok, on my 81, the factory repair manual says to replace the whole front driveshaft if any problems are found. This is not completely true. If you place one hand on one side of the double cardan and one hand on the other side, try moving side to side, up and down. If there is play, the CV joint inside the double cardan is toast. If it is solid it is still good. Roll the joints like they would if they were installed. If smooth ok.
To disassemble joints first remove all zirc fittings from caps, then pop out clips on u-joints from inside double cardan. To remove the clips i use to identical smaller flat-head screw drivers, holding the handles together, with the tips on each side of the clip, then lightly tap the handles of the screwdrivers with the side of the hammer so you hit both handles at once. This usually pops out the clip. The factory repair manual states that u may have to tap down the caps a bit further to get the clip out, but i've never had that problem. Use a drift punch slightly smaller than the caps, and hammer down right on the cap until opposite cap pops out. then use drift punch to hammer back the other way, right on the u-joint. when all four caps are out on each joint then you should be able to seperate all peices.
Inspect the cv joint. i've found many front drive shafts where the cv is really damaged. Usually the cup in the CV joint is damaged, and sometimes the ball. Driveshafts damaged at the cv joint are usually toast, however i've used a die grinder to knock down any spots on the ball that prevent proper operation, re-assembled, and they worked perfect. however some are so damaged at the cup side that this cannot be done. Time to replace the entire driveshaft.
I recommend installing new u-joints, with the Creeper Joints from Trail-Gear being my u-joint of choice.
To re-assemble, loosely fit all pieces together, including the u-joints without caps or clips, ensuring the the CV joint fits together properly, then tap in each cap about 1/4". First tap in the caps on the Double-cardan then do the outer caps, ensuring that the u-joint fits into the caps without knocking over the roller bearings inside the cap. Install the clips as you go.
When all is back together, do all the hand tests listed above. No play side to side or up and down, and the double cardan rolls like it should, smoothly.
As for the Zirc fitting on the caps instead of at the center of the u-joint, i used old caps i had, that were that way already.
If your caps are so loose they wont stay in, then you probably dont have the right u-joint.
I hope all this helps.
To disassemble joints first remove all zirc fittings from caps, then pop out clips on u-joints from inside double cardan. To remove the clips i use to identical smaller flat-head screw drivers, holding the handles together, with the tips on each side of the clip, then lightly tap the handles of the screwdrivers with the side of the hammer so you hit both handles at once. This usually pops out the clip. The factory repair manual states that u may have to tap down the caps a bit further to get the clip out, but i've never had that problem. Use a drift punch slightly smaller than the caps, and hammer down right on the cap until opposite cap pops out. then use drift punch to hammer back the other way, right on the u-joint. when all four caps are out on each joint then you should be able to seperate all peices.
Inspect the cv joint. i've found many front drive shafts where the cv is really damaged. Usually the cup in the CV joint is damaged, and sometimes the ball. Driveshafts damaged at the cv joint are usually toast, however i've used a die grinder to knock down any spots on the ball that prevent proper operation, re-assembled, and they worked perfect. however some are so damaged at the cup side that this cannot be done. Time to replace the entire driveshaft.
I recommend installing new u-joints, with the Creeper Joints from Trail-Gear being my u-joint of choice.
To re-assemble, loosely fit all pieces together, including the u-joints without caps or clips, ensuring the the CV joint fits together properly, then tap in each cap about 1/4". First tap in the caps on the Double-cardan then do the outer caps, ensuring that the u-joint fits into the caps without knocking over the roller bearings inside the cap. Install the clips as you go.
When all is back together, do all the hand tests listed above. No play side to side or up and down, and the double cardan rolls like it should, smoothly.
As for the Zirc fitting on the caps instead of at the center of the u-joint, i used old caps i had, that were that way already.
If your caps are so loose they wont stay in, then you probably dont have the right u-joint.
I hope all this helps.
Last edited by OldManYota; 12-15-2009 at 12:29 PM.
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Minneapols, MN USA
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Inspect the cv joint. i've found many front drive shafts where the cv is really damaged. Usually the cup in the CV joint is damaged, and sometimes the ball. Driveshafts damaged at the cv joint are usually toast, however i've used a die grinder to knock down any spots on the ball that prevent proper operation, re-assembled, and they worked perfect. however some are so damaged at the cup side that this cannot be done. Time to replace the entire driveshaft.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jcrawl94
84-85 Trucks & 4Runners (Build-Up Section)
10
10-24-2015 04:34 PM
Peevedkitten
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners (Build-Up Section)
11
08-31-2015 06:57 PM
AppalachianOffRoader
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
0
08-12-2015 12:55 PM