Newer to Yota's (less than a few years), and trying to get drivability issue figured out with my '87 bobbed Yota--your assistance and time are GREATLY appreciated!

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Picked up this carb (was told it was a 32/36 Weber) from a fellow Yota wheeler on a run down around Dallas somewhere last year. Had the feeling it was a Weber rip off (China?), but not sure. Installed it, but having some issues with a midrange issue--truck will pull through 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears great, but when it comes to 4th, it starts to bog bad as you press down on the gas. IF you slam it to the floor, it will come out of it and do fine, but otherwise will stutter and stumble til it nearly dies (at which point I let off!). Also seems to have a lack of power when going up hills on the road.

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Been fighting ignition issues as you can see from my other post, but I am doing my best to find a manual for my carb so that I can continue to trouble shoot these issues...still not sure if it's fueling or timing. If any Yota vets have any suggestions on the model of this carb (I will try to get better photos if needed), Pleaseeee let me know so I can find a manual! THANKS~!!

 

a real weber 32/36 carb will look like this and have these markings on them:

 

can you take the air cleaner off and take a pic so I can see the choke plates?

 

to me this looks like a 34/34 progressive carb which is a solex carb, china made I believe, not realy a true weber. Notice the tee shaped fuel inlets where the real webers are a v shape. And also the difference in the chokes.

 

I think you're right!!! Too dark tonight, but I'll get a photo of the choke plates tomorrow to confirm what you're thinking....

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I'll have to do some digging on google for Solex...not familiar with the name/brand at all, but by appearance it seems you're right on! I've always wondered why my "Weber" (it even has Weber stickers similar to the ones shown in the post above on the true Weber) had a Tee fuel inlet and the others were wyes.... Man..China even ripped off Weber's stickers...crazy!

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Anyways, anyone having any luck running these China carbs or should it be ditched for a true Weber to avoid future problems? I don't have anything against mine yet, just need someone in the North Texas area to school me on how to tune it!! Thanks!

 

the photos I posted are of my carb before install. But as long as you can find which idle adjustment screws are which, you can follow for the most part the weber's lean best adjustment procedure to get it close.

look at the webercarbsdirect.com website, they have the procedure and other troubleshooting info there.

 

it looks like a weber 32/36 which is the same carb i have real webers are made in spain

 

oh sorry looked at the wrong pictures i dont think thats a weber 32/36

 

Here are some more photos...can't find "Spain" or "Weber" cast in to any of the pieces, kinda solidifying xxxtreme22r's thoughts if you ask me...

Any other input?! :-) Bring it on! The more info from the wise men/women of the yota community, the better!

I was able to remove a little of the hesitation by advancing the timing (was at about 5 deg at idle w/vacuum line removed and up around 12/14 at guessing about 3000 rpm) to now 14 deg at idle and about 30/35 deg (completely guessing here!) like the Weber community says they run on the Porsches/VW's, etc....sounded WAY too advanced to me, but truck runs through the midrange stutter pretty good now!!

Still can't tell if the last bit of the stutter is ignition related or fuel-related...anyone in North Texas feeling friendly and want to help a newbie out? Dinner on me! Thanks in advance!

 

thats defiinately a 34/34 as I suspected, look at the major difference between the air horns between my Genuine Weber and the Solex 34/34. Don't feel bad though, there are alot of jeeps running the solex 34/34. HOwever when trying to find jet kits for these it can be tough as they are not that popular and everyone has the ones for the 32/36.

Have you tried following the setup instructions for the 32/36 with this? It might help even though its not a 32/36. It's the same concept even with setting a 38 Weber.

 

Also a fuel pressure regulator might help emensley as well. set if for 3-3/5psi. Only use a holley brand though, they are not that expensive at summit racing. don't get one of those cheap mr gasket ones that are a dial. Also do you have the return line from the fuel pump removed and blocked off? That might help to.

You would be very surprised by how the fuel pressure pulsates with the factory style mechanical fuel pump if you put a regulator on it. The factory fuel pump also pushes almost 6-7psi to the carb, which has a tendency to richen the fuel mixture by "semi flooding" the carb. It does this because it sends too much fuel into the fuel bowl before the float has a chance to shut the inlet to the bowl.

 

Does anyone have a manual for the Solex 34/34 carb? Or access to one online!? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Still have a heck of a stutter at ~60-65% throttle that I can't get rid of. I tried adjusting the secondary and helped a little, which has led me to believe that it IS a fueling issue (afterall, entire ignition system is new and working properly after me throwin parts at it trying to correct the drivability issue). If you accelerate slowly, sometimes you can "drive through" the stutter....

I need a manual to try to tune the carb, and will also begin looking for a jet kit. ANY help is greatly appreciated! If all else fails, maybe I'll have to start hunting for a true Weber 32/36... Thanks!

 

Any info from anyone?? I am strongly considering breaking down and buying a "true" Weber on eBay...the Redline supplier keeps popping up a lot.

I can't decide if I need the 32/36 or 38 model...gonna do some searching on here, but anyone willing to shed a little light on the decision? I have 33's, typical weber air cleaner (going to snorkel soon) and glass pack exhaust, but nothing done for true engine performance.

Thanks in advance!!

 

Google holds more information that you could possible imagine

the so-called Solex 34/34 carb is in fact a Weber 34 DGEC

http://genuineweber.blogspot.com/

 

After doing some soul searching on the Weber issue on yotatech.com, I'm thinking my best choice is a 32/36 from Redline or webercarbsdirect.com.

I only have a header, filter, free flowing exhaust, and upgraded ignition electronics...nothing very "performancy"...

Plus, since mine is becoming a daily driver, it sounds like the 38 would be a bad choice as far as fuel mileage goes...

 

yeah a 32/36 is really the best all-around choice probably

a lot of people run them, and parts are easy to get ahold of

I ran one for years on an Isuzu 2.3l

 

got a quick question for you. i got the same motor in my toyota i was just curious, what is that chrome unit that is sitting on top of your valve cover?

 

not factory, not my motor, but that would be a holley style fuel pressure regulator. And now that I really look at it, those fuel lines are seriously kinked on both the inlet and outlet of that thing. hahahaha.