spun the wheel around and it feels tight and smooth. I am getting ready to send it in for a rebuild but is this the problem?

 

How many mile you got on the S/C...??? Some rattling is common but if it is really loud and obvious, the bearings many be worn already... I have over 50k on mine with very light rattling on idle,,, The S/C are good for 100k as stated but I've read somewhere that the nose drive assy. should be rebuilt/replaced at 60K... This comes as a kit from TRD...

 

I have 200,000 miles on the S/C, and it just started rattleing 4 days ago.
I did research and found that the common problem/fix was to replace the front drive assembly. So I call TRD and they said that I cannot deal with them directly because I have to go thru a dealer (middleman, pimp). So I called Magnuson and they will exchange for another one for $175.
As I stated in my post, the assembly nose that I took off and checked, has not slop or play in it. How can I know that if I get a replacement and reinstall everything that the problem is fixed? Is there a way to maunually test the gears in the main supercharger body? Is the Phenolic block the problem?

 

goooood lord. how many miles on your truck? you might hold the record for most miles on a trd supercharger.

 

Its been a great truck. I bought it new in 97. The tranny has over 300,000 original miles on it. There is no doubt that Toyotas trannys are bullet proof.

 

Did you modify the fuel system? Is the motor original? That is awesome!!!!

 

Yeah seriously. I hope you have the proper tuning mods.

Magnuson is great. I had the entire SC'r rebuilt there and their service was awesome. In fact, I wrote a review on them here on YT.

Please tell us more about your rig and mods...

 

Yeah this gives me some hope in talking the wife into allowing me to S/C the truck

 

For now I have the supercharger and headers, but will be going with URD fuel upgrades + more when I get the time and money.
I just want to get through this supercharger problem since this is my only vehilcle and am not sure that I am properly addressing the problem by sending in the front drive assembly.

 

I am surprised Magnuson did not suggest to rebuild the whole thing. I know I was leaning towards just a nose rebuild, but they convinced me (at 100K miles) to get the whole thing rebuilt. I think it was $650 w/shipping. It was basically a brand new SC'r after they were done.

 

I'm going to call them today and will probably just send in the entire unit. That sounds like the best bet.

 

nusonHey can you give me also the number to Magnuson... I'll probably need to do this too in the near furture... Thanks...

I'm surprise you were able to get that much milage out of your S/C without fuel mods and not totally ruining your engine...??? I already know of two incidents here in the Bay Area where guys had cracks on their engine heads and as much as even a hole through one of the cylinder heads...!!!

You're very lucky...!!!

Noli--

 

My review: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...light=magnuson

Contact info: http://www.magnusonproducts.com/contactus.htm

 

I am on my second engine, the first one gave up on me at around 180k. I think there were two reasons for this. 1. I was mixing too much Toulene with my gas. 2. I had Bosch 4 pronged plugs installed and some of the prongs on the plugs broke off into the engine.
The supercharger went 100k on the first engine and a little over 100k on the second.

 

I knew there was more to the story! We can almost guarantee the 1st engine got toasted by not having any tuning mods. As you may know, ping is extremely bad in the 2000 - 3000RPM range. Also, the stock fuel system (mainly the pump) cannot keep up with the increased demand up high, thus leaning out the mixture. A sustained lean condition in either circumstance will melt the prongs off a spark plug due to high EGT's.

Yeah, you definitely need to get some fuel/tuning mods on that bad boy. Oh and for the record, I was able to completely tune out the HG/LR ping with the following mods:

Walbro 190 fuel pump (you have to get this no matter what), Free FMU mod, 2-step colder plugs, 170 degree thermo, water wetter, Perfect Power SMT6. All that right there will run you about $500 installed by you.

You have a great resource there in Seattle. Mark (midiwall) knows the SMT6 really well. In fact, he was kind of my "mentor" on the project, along with Johnny at sea 2 sky tuning (also somewhat local to you). With both those guys nearby, I would highly recommend heading down the mod path that I took. The SMT made a huge difference. In some cases I found the timing needing to be retarded by 10 degrees!

 

(thanks Christian!)

TooEZgoin; drop me a PM or an email (mark@midiwall.com) if you want to get together and babble about what Christian's said. There's a LOT of babble here on the forum about S/C tuning, but given that you're in the area, it can be handy to point at stuff under the hood.

I understand that money is hard to find, and it's amazing that you've run this long on that engine, but if you'd like to run even longer, you should drop some money into boosting up the fuel delivery and install some timing control.

I'd suspect that adding the Toulene has increased the octane rating to the point that you're not getting any serious knocking. But man, there are better ways to handle the situation.

 

I had a rattle come up on mine last year. I thought it was the SC but it ended up being the tensioner pulley's bearing. I replaced the pulley and everything was normal again.