Disclaimer, I am not a mechanic. (Husband is though.)

So I've got a 2000 Toyota 4Runner Limited Automatic with a 3in suspension lift, on 285/65r 16's. I bought it from a guy 3-4 years ago with a "blown head gasket"...yea we ended up having to replace the motor. Anyway, it's always jerked when I shift from Park to basically anything else. Sometimes it doesn't do it but 8/10 times it does. So aside from that, it started breaking flywheels, we're talking 3 flywheels in 2 years. My husbands a 20+ year mechanic and even he's stumped by this. We changed the flywheel (we're on #3 now) and while changing it he pulled the torque convertor. (Its a 20 spline convertor, no idea if that makes a difference or what? 🤷‍♀️) Well, we can't find a convertor for it so he ended up putting a dowel pin in the trans which it had previously been missing and throwing it all back together. Now when I start it, it makes a loud screeching sound but only while starting the vehicle. As soon as it's started the noise stops. It still shifts from park hard and I just dont know what to do. We've put so much time into this truck and money. I just want to figure this out. Any ideas? I'm open to listening to anything that anyone wants to suggest we try.

 

IS there a ton of slop in the rear diff or driveline? Do you get the hard shift going from drive to reverse or vice versa? Have you checked for crank runout or end play?

 

No play in the driveline.
From park to anything it'll hit hard 8/10 times then sometimes it doesnt do it.
Its within spec.

 

So it's only from park? It doesn't bang if you go from reverse to drive or drive to reverse? How about if you shut the truck off in neutral and start from neutral instead of park?

I'm wondering if your parking pawl is hooked or sticking:

http://www.teamtoyota4x4.org/archivi...at/plp/ovr.pdf

 

Good working properly adjusted rear brakes help with park to drive shifts, or maybe your idle is set to high, you should be around 750rpm

 

Any new info or diagnostics?

 

So it took most of the say but we managed to get my 4runner on close to level ground.

I was able to turn the motor on the crank pully bolt 3 full revolutions. It seemed like it should have been a little easier to turn but not knowing the 3.4 very well it could be fine. Also all the fluids seem fine but I'm going to check the atf again when I put the new transmission filter on it.

I didn't have time to test the starter again. By the time I got it on level ground the sun was starting to set. The rest of the day was spent on trying to gracefully get the stripped bolt out holding the inspection plate. I guess tomorrow I'm going to try some heat and more force.

Tomorrow Im going to:
1. pull the starter again and visually inspect it and do the bench/jump test again.
2. get that stripped inspection cover bolt out and looking at my flex-plate.
3. Pull transmission pan and filter to look for metal chunks and contaminated fluid (its time for a new filter anyway and I have one on hand).
4. Use a fully charged battery to try to start it again. The one I've been using is only 3-4 months old but lost power trying to start so many times.
5. Possibly compression test to make sure the motor is good. It better be, i just installed it 6 months ago.

You explained there would have to be something seriously wrong for the transmission to make the engine hard to turn. If the tests I do tomorrow look good is it possible or even worth it to separate the transmission from the motor to see if it starts or at least turns easier by hand? That's just a thought a friend had but this guy is a danger when he uses tools.

Tns1.
i would really like to pay you back for all the help some how.are you in california by chance? If not pm me and we can figure something out. You help has been indispensable.

Ill repost back tomorrow evening.
thank you again.
​​​​​​​

 

So it took most of the say but we managed to get my 4runner on close to level ground.

I was able to turn the motor on the crank pully bolt 3 full revolutions. It seemed like it should have been a little easier to turn but not knowing the 3.4 very well it could be fine. Also all the fluids seem fine but I'm going to check the atf again tomorrow when I put a new transmission filter on it.

I didn't have time to test the starter again. By the time I got it on level ground the sun was starting to set. The rest of the day was spent on trying to gracefully get the stripped bolt out holding the inspection plate. I guess tomorrow I'm going to try some heat and more force.

Tomorrow Im going to:
1. pull the starter again and visually inspect it and do the bench/jump test.
2. get that stripped inspection cover bolt out and look at my flex-plate.
3. Pull transmission pan and filter to look for metal chunks and contaminated fluid (its time for a new filter anyway and I have one on hand).
4. Use a fully charged battery to try to start it again.
5. Compression test to make sure the motor is good. It better be, i just installed it 6 months ago.

Tns1:
You explained there would have to be something seriously wrong for the transmission to make the engine hard to turn. If the tests I do tomorrow look good is it worth it to separate the transmission from the motor to see if it starts or at least turns easier by hand? That's just a thought a friend had and I know a ton of labor.

Your help has been indispensable.
i would really like to pay you back some how. Are you in california by chance? If not pm me and we can figure something out. I never understood how the torque converter gets power to the rest of the drive train until you explained it.

Ill repost back tomorrow evening with results.
thank you again.

 

Sorry about that. I just realized I posted to the wrong thread.