There are a bunch of code 52/knock sensor threads (plus the How-To guide) and I've looked through them and feel cautiously optimistic about doing the replacement.

What seems harder to find is a list of other maintenance and replacement work to do while you're doing the knock sensor replacement and have to take everything off. From what I've gathered it seems like it makes sense to do timing belt, water pump + thermostat, replace all the gaskets. Is there anything else that'd makes sense to check/replace during the process? Also kind of wondering if its actually necessary to change timing belt if it's still within the recommended maintenance time?

Sorry if I missed an existing post on this, but I took a look and didn't really find anything?

 

I don’t have any experience with the V6, usually advice is to change the knock sensor while doing something else if your in there anyway. I would try and find out how many rubber or plastic parts will be affected and change them or have them on standby. I went to pull the valve cover on my 22RE but decided to hold off until I have the correct vacuum lines because I could see some were already split or were going to split when I pulled them.

 

I replaced the knock sensor and pigtail when I did mine. From the research I did back then, I bought a Toyota OEM knock sensor and pigtail. I would also recommend replacing the PCV valve and valve cover gaskets while you have it apart. I also did the Pair and EGR delete when I did mine.

 

Thanks for the input.
Yeah, I bought both the OEM knock sensor and pigtail. Since I'm going to be in there it seems to make sense to just do both. I hadn't thought of doing the PCV valve replacement, I'll look into it.

 

If you're like the rest of us, you'll find the PCV valve grommet has the consistency of concrete. Since you'll have to break it to get it out, it's handy to have the valve cover off so you can shake the chips out. The grommet is a very common item, and your local parts store will probably have it.

 

You are at the point of can I see it or can I touch it with all this other stuff in the way..

You will have to weight the expense of changing out a part (which you can see and touch NOW), basicly any rubber or plastic bits are prone to failure and you will want to access if you're willing to risk them failing later or shell out the $$ now and pre proactive.

 

You'll be removing the fuel rails and injectors so be sure to get new inector o rings and you should get new fuel line crush washers. Those washers *can* be reused sometimes, but you're really supposed to replace them every time they're removed.

 

Thanks for all the input.
Any chance anyone has the parts numbers for the O-rings and washers?

 

The o rings I just picked up a set of felpros from autozone, worked great. I think there's 3 different crush washer sizes you need. I found the #s once but couldn't sort out which was which. Someone here might have them, or you can call the dealer and they can look it up. They usually run about $2 per washer, and you need something like 12 all together. I haven't been able to find them at any parts store

 

YOU know your make/mode/year/engine . For part numbers, I find a dealer site like https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/ to be very handy. I've ordered crush washers (and lots of other stuff) from Lakeland.

With crush washers, I advise you get two extra of each size. They don't cost much. I've found they can sense when you're down to your last washer, and then they jump out of your hand into the grass.

Here's the FSM for removing the cylinder heads. http://web.archive.org/web/201208130...68cylinder.pdf It will give you a good idea of what you'll see on the way.

 

Job's done and the Runner's running okay so far! Just wanted to update and thank everyone who chimed in.
It was a bear of a job, especially for someone just getting into wrenching... took me almost 3 days of working on it including all the trips to the hardware and auto store, but glad my engine didn't blow up when i started it up again lol.

 

Glad you got it done. When I did mine it was more the dread of doing it that was bad. Once I got started it wasn't horrible. Sure is nice not having that check engine light on and the poor performance that goes along with it.

 

Yeah I didn't expect such a noticeable performance boost. My throttle response is definitely snappier and more consistent, and I don't know if it's just the throttle response improvement but I also feel like there's more power getting up to freeway speeds.
Fingers crossed I get some mpg increases as well.