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I have a 1989 single cab 4x4 22re 5 speed with 300k miles. It overheates SLOWLY but surely. From the temp needle will go from the mid point on temp to red zone at idle (w/ ac on or off) in about 15 - 25 mins.
(Moving using Python the truck)
Engine will run very hot (given time) in the city, and somewhat less hot on the highway (55-65 mph).
I have check or replaced the following items to check or test:
Radiator - good
Thermostat - replaced
Water pump - replaced
Fan clutch - replaced
Ignition timing - checked
Timing chain - replaced (no hole)
Coolant hoses replaced or checked (no external coolant leaks)
Head Gasket - ??? (no white smoke from exhaust or rough running)
The temp gauge will NEARLY reach the red zone in position on the highway at 55-65 mph (afraid to press the truck harder)
I can hear coolant bubbling if the gauge reaches above 1/2 (so it's accurate)
I think the problem is the head gasket. I put drops of oil from the dip stick on a frying pan and heard/saw little bubbles and crackling sounds. Then I went and did the same test with fresh oil. No popping or bubbling.
The oil level on the dipstick is rising too (I think)! Suddenly my truck was overfull a few weeks after an oil change...
OK, I need some help please... Do any of you have an opinion on this? Please let me know
What brand of head gasket should I use? And if my head is damaged, what brand of replacement heads are best?
Okay, I'm thinking it is the radiator. Mine is stock and it has been into lots of dirty places for fishing spots...not the City places...
Anyway, any recommendations on what radiator to get? Trying to stay under 200$.
I called Champion Radiators and I like the look and price, but I need it now!
I used a CSF 2306 radiator and have been very happy with it. It even has a drain valve which the original did not. Likely above your price target, though.
Installed the new radiator.
This was an easy straight-ahead remove and replace.
Remove the upper and lower water hoses and air horn. The bottom hose was more accessible when I removed the skid plate.
The fan shroud was unbolted and pushed towards the engine so that it hangs on the fan blades.
Then remove the four bolts holding the radiator and lift it out.
The Champion radiator was a straight bolt in with no issue at all. Oh, it took more fluid to refill than the stock radiator.
All i can say at the moment is that I am cautiously happy ! I keep driving it to my same old haunts and it has only moved to 1/4 and that is with AC on and farting around...
I used a CSF 2306 radiator and have been very happy with it. It even has a drain valve which the original did not. Likely above your price target, though.
Same here.
Originally Posted by Bloku
Installed the new radiator.....
Nice! Pls keep us posted how it does. Also what is core height / Shroud dimensions?
People need to double-check original radiator and shroud dimensions before ordering. Some trucks take 2314, Blueman's and mine take 2306 plug and play.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; Aug 26, 2020 at 11:31 AM.
If that solves the over heating problem, and then you start loosing coolant with no visible leaks, and no coolant in the oil. Then the coolant is going out the tail pipe.
My 92 22RE never did run hot, but the coolant would slowly disappear from the overflow jug. Yup bad head gasket. Had a bad spot on it between the number 3 and 4 piston exhaust side.
Very interesting. Comparing the CSF info, the 2306 and 2314 are very nearly the same. The 2314 covers 1984-1995, whereas the 2306 covers only 1985-1988. The biggest difference I can see is the inlet/outlet diameter (2-1/4 vs. 2-3/16). Mine is an SR5 with MT5 and A/C and takes the 2306. Anyone know which vehicles take the 2314?