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I'm looking at making my 4runner my toad behind my RV for flat-four towing. I'm not terribly opposed to crawling under and hooking up the driveshaft every time, but does anybody have any experience with the quick disconnects like this link, or the remco units?
https://www.trailtough.com/product/rear-drive-disconnect-for-toyotas/
I'm 99% highway driving, 1% putting it in 4 wheel drive for really bad gravel/dirt forest roads to get to a hiking trailhead (not a rock crawler)
Looks like a reasonable low-cost option for moderate use like you'd be doing. You'll just have to make sure you have the right transfer case. The disconnect you reference appears to only fit the 4-cylinder gear-drive tcase (RF1A), manual transmission. If you have a V6 and/or an auto, you're probably out of luck.
You'll also need to plan on shortening your drive shaft to accommodate the extra length of the disco. Runs about $100.
Another option for you is to just run in front wheel drive when you only need the vehicle as a runabout on good roads. You'd only need to install the rear driveshaft if you expected to need 4wd.
Right, but doesn't driving it around in 4 wheel drive on flat pavement end up binding the axle?
Or is that not a problem when the rear axle is disconnected?
No binding. It would be equivalent to driving a front-wheel-drive.
Except that the hardware to deliver power to the front wheels (front drive shaft, half-shafts) is much smaller than the hardware for the rear wheels. It's obviously not designed to deliver all the drive power through the front. But for driving into town to pick up a quart of milk, I think you'd be okay.
The front drive train is more than adequate strength-wise for any driving on pavement in high range that you'd do. It's designed to handle low range, which more than doubles the applied torque, and there are many times in the rocks where the front is doing all the work while the rear is in a low traction situation just dragging along. Plenty of strength there for front-wheel drive highway driving. The more likely possible issue is smoothness at high speeds. The front drive shaft may not be balanced as well, so you may get some vibration above 45 mph or so. You won't know until you try it. Also, the RF1A tcase which you have can be noisy at higher speeds when in 4wd, because the front output is gear driven. (Chain driven front outputs are quieter). Nothing to worry about, just be aware you might hear it more.
Lock in both front hubs or it won't move. As said, no worries about binding as long as the rear drive shaft is disconnected.
No binding. It would be equivalent to driving a front-wheel-drive.
Except that the hardware to deliver power to the front wheels (front drive shaft, half-shafts) is much smaller than the hardware for the rear wheels. It's obviously not designed to deliver all the drive power through the front. But for driving into town to pick up a quart of milk, I think you'd be okay.
Originally Posted by RJR
The front drive train is more than adequate strength-wise for any driving on pavement in high range that you'd do. It's designed to handle low range, which more than doubles the applied torque, and there are many times in the rocks where the front is doing all the work while the rear is in a low traction situation just dragging along. Plenty of strength there for front-wheel drive highway driving. The more likely possible issue is smoothness at high speeds. The front drive shaft may not be balanced as well, so you may get some vibration above 45 mph or so. You won't know until you try it. Also, the RF1A tcase which you have can be noisy at higher speeds when in 4wd, because the front output is gear driven. (Chain driven front outputs are quieter). Nothing to worry about, just be aware you might hear it more.
Lock in both front hubs or it won't move. As said, no worries about binding as long as the rear drive shaft is disconnected.
I have a very similar looking driveshaft disconnect on my 4runner. I'm assuming it was an after market add on. I have never tried to use it, as I'm worried I'll get it disconnected and not be able to reconnect it... I would like to remove it and put in a proper length DS, but will most likely wait until I do a 5 speed swap and try to track down a DS from a manual.
I have a very similar looking driveshaft disconnect on my 4runner. I'm assuming it was an after market add on. I have never tried to use it, as I'm worried I'll get it disconnected and not be able to reconnect it... I would like to remove it and put in a proper length DS, but will most likely wait until I do a 5 speed swap and try to track down a DS from a manual.
(I know, old thread)
That one looks perfect, thanks for posting, i was just thinking this over again!
I installed a tcase emergency brake, so that area is now occupied, this one that mates to the rear diff is great.
That one looks perfect, thanks for posting, i was just thinking this over again!
I installed a tcase emergency brake, so that area is now occupied, this one that mates to the rear diff is great.
Can you tell who made it?
I haven't found any logos or markings on it yet, but I'll crawl back under this weekend and see what I can find on it.
I'm assuming they weren't a dealer option or something like that, and was put in by a shop after purchase.
edit: It seems like most of them are air actuated? I don't think the one I have is, it seems like it's just a cable pull and push? I'll post a pic of where the cable sits on the right of the driver seat right on the transmission tunnel in a bit.
I haven't found any logos or markings on it yet, but I'll crawl back under this weekend and see what I can find on it.
I'm assuming they weren't a dealer option or something like that, and was put in by a shop after purchase.
edit: It seems like most of them are air actuated? I don't think the one I have is, it seems like it's just a cable pull and push? I'll post a pic of where the cable sits on the right of the driver seat right on the transmission tunnel in a bit.
Thanks, I'm happy to have whatever pictures you take of it!
Could help me find one like it. Shame you live on the opposite side of the continent or we could just trade driveshafts, but if you take it off I might buy it off you, paying you + to ship it would probably still be cheaper than $500+ for a new one
Thanks, I'm happy to have whatever pictures you take of it!
Could help me find one like it. Shame you live on the opposite side of the continent or we could just trade driveshafts, but if you take it off I might buy it off you, paying you + to ship it would probably still be cheaper than $500+ for a new one
That is a shame, I would make that trade in a second!
No problem man, I'll snap as many pics as I can this weekend, and I would definitely be willing to ship it to you once I remove it.
Not a problem man, here's what I snapped on the weekend. Let me know if there's any part of it specifically you want a pic of.
Pull knob on the transmission tunnel, between right leg and shifter Cable exits cab right here, at the back of the center console between it and driver seat The remnants of a brand name... Remco popped up with a quick google search
Happy to help! That definitely looks to be the one.
Realistically I won't be removing it until next year most likely, when I do my 5 speed swap. I'm still trying to track down a transmission with tcase, and the clutch pedal assembly, and a manual DS. If I can source all my parts I may do the swap this winter. I would gladly ship it no charge if you cover shipping costs, I'll keep you posted.
Happy to help! That definitely looks to be the one.
Realistically I won't be removing it until next year most likely, when I do my 5 speed swap. I'm still trying to track down a transmission with tcase, and the clutch pedal assembly, and a manual DS. If I can source all my parts I may do the swap this winter. I would gladly ship it no charge if you cover shipping costs, I'll keep you posted.
Thanks! Remco just quoted me $2500 including installation
I asked if they could ship me the parts for a DIY install, they haven't gotten back to me...
At that price it would be cheaper to ship you a replacement transmission just to keep your project moving!
I've installed (and removed) a rear disconnect that mounts to the t-case. My experiences:
It was easy to install. Just bolts.
It used a long center nut into the t-case. If it's not thread-locked, it'll loosen and vibrate like crazy.
I never added an in-cab control, but was (am?) planning on using a parking brake lever from something. They are cheap and available everywhere.
Apparently lithium grease in the collar/shoes and splines helps greatly with wear and rust. Though something that's exposed like that is bound to see some eventually.
The overall setup added an inch to the driveshaft length, so when I took it out, I just added a 1 inch spacer.
Apr 21, 2019 | 07:03 PM
