I'm ready to drop my transmission to replace the clutch. The FSM states to remove 3 bolts holding front differential and support the differential. How critical is this can it be done without this step.
Also approx how heavy is the transmission, can 2 people drop it without a transmission jack?

 

Sure. The trick is to not have any parts of your body(s) under the transmission when it smacks into the concrete floor.

I've never removed the transmission on my truck, but I have removed a transmission on a Dodge Conquest (Mitsubishi Starion). I used a trolley jack (and c-clamps to hold onto the transmission). I got it out and back in, but I swore I'd never try to do it that way again. There are 15 (!!) Harbor Freights w/i 20 miles of you. They have what looks like a serviceable jack for $100 (I'd spring for the $170 model, myself).

As hard as it would be to get out, I can't imagine that you could re-install it by hand (that's assuming your leg cushioned the impact on the floor, so you didn't break anything. On the transmission.) You have a lot of stuff to align with six degrees of freedom (up-down, left-right, forward-back, rotate, and angle in two planes). Can you imagine bench pressing 100 lbs and holding it perfectly still for 4 minutes while your friend tries to wiggle it into place?

 

I agree with scope103. I've removed a couple transmissions to do clutches and one to get the tranny rebuilt, the easiest one was by far the one we rented a transmission jack for. It's doable with a decent floor jack and various sizes of wood blocks and ratchet straps for adjustment, but it's pretty sketchy.

I recommend using a transmission jack.

 

I do not suggest doing it without a jack. ive done it a few times by myself with a harbor freight tranny jack easy enough, the jack only cost like 100 bucks. ive never removed the front diff. stick a piece of wood between the diff and the oil pan. so they don't contact.

 

Thanks folks. I'll just rent a transmission jack from the local rent a shop. Have no need to buy one as I would probably never use it again in 10yrs and dont need it taking up space in the garage. Last clutch I did was in our 300zx and that was 5-6yrs ago and I rented a jack for that.

Does the motor lean back towards the cabin once the tranny is removed.

Any other tips folks could pass on.

 

Yes, the motor will lean back a bit. I used a small block of wood between the front cross member & engine to keep oil pan safe. Good idea renting a tranny jack, using a floor jack is not ideal to hold tranny and line it back when you're done.

 

That's what I thought about my a/c gauges and evacuation pump ...

 

Was just gonna chime in that I always seem to find AT LEAST a second use for the tools I buy to work on this truck. And, IF in the next year I don't use it, I put it on CL for almost as much as I bought it for, "Only used 1 Time!!!" and recoup some of my losses. This strategy only doesn't work when space is at a premium. For me locally, most rental tools for things like pickers and jacks work out to be almost the same price as the HF option. If I'm only going to use it once or twice a decade, HF seems to be the way to go.

 

I don't recall loosening any bolts on the diff on my 22RE truck or my old v6. Mine were both 86-87 though.

Do yourself a favor and get a cheap Harbor Freight tranny jack. Makes the job a lot easier.

Also a prybar on top of the motor will help to line it up when it comes time for re-install. Grab a friend have have them tilt the motor backwards.

 

Just did the clutch/trans in my truck and having a trans jack was a lifesaver. According to my FSM at least, the wedge of wood trick only works on the 22R, not the 3VZ?
I ended up just dropping the front 2 bolts for the diff to get it out of the way and left the 3rd one on the front attached.
Don't really know if it's necessary since I dropped it, I think the companion flange on the diff would get in the way of the bell housing if you don't move it?? But it did make getting to the starter motor bolts and 2x trans support bolts on the drivers side much easier as a benefit.

The top bolt on the bell housing is a B*$& to get to. The combo I found was going through the shifter cutout from inside the cab with 2x 12" extensions > swivel joint > 2" socket on the end.

 

All you need to do it all by yourself is an engine hoist and some tie down straps.
Insert hoist into cab, remove decorations and levers.
Snake straps logically,
Place wood or somehow support the engine.
Go for it.
Slide transmission from under the truck.

And yes, you can do engine and transmissions all by yourself when ones ˟˟˟˟ friends never have time.

 

I’ve dropped transmissions by myself before without a jack but not these huge ones. Just got done putting my auto a340f back in by myself, but without a jack I would never be able to get close. The manual trans will be a bit lighter I believe, than an auto. Have jack stands and blocks of wood on hand too. To block up the trans if you need to reposition the jack or if it gets wobbly and tries to fall off.

 

Two people can absolutely pull a trans, ya pansies. Its the transfer case hanging off the back that makes it so heavy. If you split the two and take it down in sections, its much more manageable. However, a jack would be way faster.

I have one of these, it works alright for a super budget jack. But Ive done many Toyota trans/cases and two super duty transmissions with it and it works awesome. Its tall and a littly chunky to use, but worth every penny.

< I think I got it off Northern Tool, but theres an amazon link

 

I'm a wimp, I admit. If it weighs more than about 40 lbs and is made of hard metal, I don't want to wrestle with it under my truck. When I installed my dual transfer cases last winter, I rented a professional quality tranny jack. It was sweet - it rolled like it was on glass, and the fine adjustments were smooth as silk. It was sooo easy to line everything up. I love tools that work like they're supposed to!

I looked at buying the $170 HF jack, but I read multiple comments on line about stiff adjustments once the weight was on it, and the mechanism seemed a bit sloppy when I checked it out in the store, so I passed. Lots of people seem to get good results with the HF jacks, however.

 

Is that an adapter on a jack, of course I didn't look at the link I'm old and lazy the same reason I'm not trying to chest press parts under a 4x4!

The better trans jacks have swiveling casters on all four corners to help with positioning.

 

Yes that looks to be an adapter for a floor jack, cool idea. Will be putting that on my tool wishlist.

 

Hey all, thanks much for all the tips and tricks. The plan is to try and drop it this coming weekend. Now if only marlin crawler would get their clutch kit back in stock, argh......

 

Yeah, just an adapter for a floor jack. It only pivots one direction vs a normal trans jack.. but for only 60 bucks.. you cant expect too much and it gets the job done. Plus, not storing a whole jack, just the top piece.