according to the FSM all i need to do is unbolt the CV's and the mounting bolts for the diff and it should drop out.. i could not get it to clear the CV's without completely removing one of the knuckles and taking out the CV

is there something iam missing?

 

A lot of people, myself included, have removed the studs that bolt the CVs up, and have ground off the splines to turn them into bolts (or outright replace). Makes removal a little easier as it gives about 2" more play to wiggle in/out.

 

Makes swapping out a cv trailside super easy too!

 

yeah those bolts were basically the only thing holding it up. i plan to turn those into removable bolts before i install this diff in the truck.. however i want to remove the current diff in the truck without needing remove the hub and getting an alignment done

it didnt look very easy to pound those studs out of the diff with it in the truck

 

I did mine with the diff still in the truck the 1st time I had to swap cv's.

You wont need an alignment. Just loosen the 4 bolts hholding the upper bj in, you will need a breaker bar to pry the lower control arm down enough to slide the cv out, then do what ya gotta do, and bolt it all back together.

 

hmm ok i will try it that way. thanks

 

what are you trying to access?? oil pan gasket maybe??

 

just swapping diffs

 

What ya plan to swap to out of curiousity. I havent had to remove mine yet. Was goin to when i need new oil pan gasket but i found a way to replace it without having to remove it thank god lol

 

removing the 4.10s for 4.56

looks like i will be doing this sooner rather than later, as i just snapped the oil pressure sender off trying to remove it. gonna need some room to get in there and figure out how to remove the broken peice.

 

Dremels do wonders. That sucks tho

 

I personally found it easier to knock all the studs/bolts holding the inner cv joints to the diff, then i went ahead and removed the crossmember that sits below the diff... its four extra bolts/nuts, but it just made life easier for me on that particular day

 

I did mine without removing all the studs. HUGE pita and much swearing involved. It's all about getting the angles right to be able to drop one side out at a time but x2 with removing the studs to get the extra clearance.

 

Speaking of Front Diffs, I am trying to put mine back in a 1994 4x4 3.0.

I will take any tips or tricks on getting diff back in.

I am trying to Use a floor jack. There has to be a proceedure?
having a hell of a time.. HELP!
I rented a transmission jack but its to tall.
Need a floor jack attachment to help hold front diff on and level..?

 

I bolted the diff to the crossmember first, then set all of it on my chest and slid under the the truck.

After that I just pushed it up into place and had a friend pin the crossmember up by putting a couple of screw drivers in the bolt holes.

once that was supporting the weight we could hold one side up/put the bolts in pretty easily

 

Yes..
I ended up putting front diff on floor jack side ways and rolling it under from the drivers side and consentrating on attaching front cross member on the passenger side and then rotating diff and coss member up and bolting in the drivers side. Then with a bottle jack i kept rear of diff up and was able to get rear monting bolts in..

Thanks

 

OP: Are you sure you had 4:10s? If you have a V6 auto, like I used to, I had 4:56s.. The 4:10s came with manuals only I thought? Unless someone else had swapped them in..

I know this thread is two months old but i'm just rambling

 

v6 Auto's also came with 4.88's if they had factory 31" tires

 

I made a jig out of plywood that bolted to the top of my floor jack and cradled the diff to keep it level. It consisted of a flat plate with three vertical members attached to support the arms of the diff. Worked slick and made it an easy one-man job. I had the front wheels up on ramps for more room underneath.

I made a similar jig when I pulled my rear 3rd a couple of years ago. Sure beats wrestling it into place with brute strength.

 

All 3 of my 90 4Runners have 4.10's. 1 90 2door with 22re manual (gear cose g292), and 2 90 4door with 3vze and autos (gear code g294).

4.88 came in 92 and later with the tow package.

Trucks and 4Runners from 90 to 95 also had 4.56 gears in different configurations - see post 24 http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...ears-come.html