Hello all,
I believe I may have a weak fuel pump and want to verify my pressures before I post anything else (I admit up front my google-fu is severely weak). Anyway, I looked around on here and the web trying to find a guide or something to help me put together a permanent gauge set-up. Could anyone point me in the direction, or possibly have a link, to something that explains the assembly? Thanks for the help.
matt z

 

https://www.lceperformance.com/Fuel-...-p/2019128.htm

 

Note that the LCE gauge could be installed "permanently," but only under the hood. No one will (intentionally) sell you a gauge that involves running fuel (even a tiny line like for an oil pressure gauge) into the passenger compartment.

RAD4Runner installed a "permanent" gauge under his hood. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52312190 He can comment on how well his gauge has stood up to the vibration.

You COULD have a cabin-installed gauge if you used an electronic sender. Expensive.

But in the end, you don't need to be watching fuel pressure day-to-day to diagnose a fuel pump. I installed a Schraeder valve to the banjo bolt next to the fuel pressure regulator. That valve comes in the following Actron gauge kit: https://actron.com/content/professio...ure-tester-kit You would usually use the gauge as a garage tool, but if you really needed to watch it while driving you could attach the gauge to the windshield with masking tape for a drive. The Schraeder valve is "permanent."

 

In my old mustang days it was almost customary to run a "mechanical" fuel pressure gauge inside the cabin, especially with a boosted application. There was a proper way to do it though as you DO NOT want to run gasoline anywhere into the cabin. The system we would use was a combination of 2 lines (braided line) a damper and gauge. The end of first line (braided line) was attached to the fuel outlet and the other end to the damper.That line had gasoline in it. From the damper another line (braided line) was attached which fed the gauge. This line was filled with antifreeze and was sometimes a bear to bleed. Any part of the arrangement that had gasoline in it stayed in the engine compartment and the other part which was filled with antifreeze was safe for inside the cabin. The main point of failure in this type of system was the damper.

As RAD mentioned, an electrical gauge setup is always an option too.

 

I'd really like to have an electrical sender and dash display to readily see FP when the intermittent rough idle on warm start happens, but no time to do it.

Had been working really well for almost 3 years already. Nice way to eliminate doubt on fuel system.

I used Valley Instruments, glycerin-filled (damping) # 53721 for $17 and fittings from LCE.
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...isSearch=53721



Here it is at work:

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Russell-640...898d:rk:1:pf:0

 

Thank you all for the input, I should of clarified up front that I did not intend to run a wet line into the cab. I was looking for a setup identical to or close to the one Rad4runner posted. I will admit the Schrader valve is also a good idea, however I am looking to "set and forget" in a manner of speaking. Thank you again.

matt z

 

Wallytoo and I have similar setup.
An example of the benefit of a fixed pressure gage:
A couple of days ago, I had the intermittent low-rough idle upon warm start after a 15-minute grocery run. Popped hood.
Fuel pressure low. Disconnected FPR vacuum line to VSV to expose FPR to atmosphere, pressure increased, idle went back to normal (like in video above), reconnected and idle went low again, but as usual, after a few seconds it normalizes.
Sidenote:
I'm pretty sure that issue is because of the temp setting of the ECU temp sender (nxt to CSI switch, IIRC) which sits at a fine line. Doesn't bother much, though.

 

The LCE kit comes with a threaded plug and claims that the gauge not be permanently mounted. The links above are the way to go unless you want that elbow in the LCE kit so the gauge faces forward.

 

Makes sense because un-dampened (not liquid-filled) gage has been known to fail. Gages are being used under more extreme conditions. It's a matter of finding the good ones like what Wallytoo and I did. I think we got parts from same places, too.
One picture above tells OP exactly what to get and where.

 

And LCE wants $35 more for a liquid filled gauge making total cost $90. The Northern Tools gauge is only $17 plus $10 banjo adapter & a $5 elbow is a mere $32 for same setup.

 

Bought this one to replace the Mr Gasket one for my Weber
Hey Ray, don't be holding out on these great items
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to..._120056_120056

 

Already got one in 2016, Mike. LOL!
Just sharing info with O.P.

 

Ok, my earlier reply didn't post, and I didn't realize it until now. I should of stated up front that I had no intention of running a wet line into the cab, I wanted a gauge in the engine compartment for troubleshooting use only. I wanted one that I could permanently mount with a "set it and forget it" take on the matter. As in I could have it reading anytime I needed to diagnose without having to install and remove it every time. Rad had the exact idea I was going for with the information and picture I needed as I work better with pictures than words. Scope, the Schrader valve is good but not quite what I was looking for however, I will keep the idea on the shelf for any other applicable use. Thank you all again for the assistance.

matt z

 

 

LOL!
How's your gage working, Wallytoo?

 

LOL
wallytoo, how did you figure that one out.....funny

 

 

AAH... Your gages and fuel pumps... you're cursed in that department - LOL!

 

That banjo bolt is the wrong size, seems you have to bite the bullet and get the $20 LCE one: https://www.lceperformance.com/Produ...93076&CartID=1