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I have an 85 pickup it hasn't ran really since I did a motor swap in it about 5 years ago got busy and lost interest any way I decided to get it back on the road got it running pretty easily and starts and idle good but took it on a test drive its hard to get moving in both 1st and reverse and could never make enough power to get in 5th gear going down the road I know there not race trucks but I think it should do 65 at least no problem down a flat straight Ohio road I checked the compression and the numbers are #1 150 #2 138 #3 158 #4 160 and doing them wet only raised each cylinder 4-5 psi the numbers don't seam terrible to me with an engine with unknown hours so im kinda stumped why it is so gutless I have seen other threads but nun seam to give any answers only the same problem that im having
I checked the compression and the numbers are #1 150 #2 138 #3 158 #4 160 and doing them wet only raised each cylinder 4-5 psi the numbers don't seam terrible to me with an engine with unknown hours
There is more than a 10% difference between #2 and #3 and 4, not good.
Did you test with throttle open or closed and . . . cold or hot? Have the valves been adjusted?
it was cold and the valves haven't been adjusted no I haven't tried with throttle open
I've always done compression tests with the engine as close to normal operating temp as possible, throttle open.
You might at least check the valves too before testing again.
Those compression numbers should be no worries. Mine are way worse and my truck has sufficient power for what it is. I find it doesn't matter throttle open or closed and the oil only raises numbers about 5 points. Look elsewhere for your problem. Yes it should go down the road at the speed limit and be able to use 5th gear unless you have gigantic tires.
Check plugs, ignition timing, and make sure your air intake is open -not crushed against the radiator support and air control valve are functioning correctly. Check for codes too. Put a vac gauge on it while it's idling and tell us how it behaves. A clogged Cat converter will make a car perform as you described. Stuck open EGR valve is another thought- it will idle high and have no power.
Last edited by Melrose 4r; Nov 29, 2018 at 07:30 AM.
Those compression numbers should be no worries. Mine are way worse and my truck has sufficient power for what it is. I find it doesn't matter throttle open or closed and the oil only raises numbers about 5 points. Look elsewhere for your problem. Yes it should go down the road at the speed limit and be able to use 5th gear unless you have gigantic tires.
Check plugs, ignition timing, and make sure your air intake is open -not crushed against the radiator support and air control valve are functioning correctly. Check for codes too. Put a vac gauge on it while it's idling and tell us how it behaves. A clogged Cat converter will make a car perform as you described. Stuck open EGR valve is another thought- it will idle high and have no power.
the egr is blocked off and no cat just a muffler I’m going to adjust the valves and reset the timing I just don’t see how it’s that far out of time and idles and free revs so good and it does have bigger tires but there only 32x10.5 so I wouldn’t consider them gigantic
the egr is blocked off and no cat just a muffler I’m going to adjust the valves and reset the timing I just don’t see how it’s that far out of time and idles and free revs so good and it does have bigger tires but there only 32x10.5 so I wouldn’t consider them gigantic
Alright, if that is a 2 barrel carb motor make sure the secondary barrel can open fully. With the engine off, operate it by hand and confirm it opens.
Just an up date the gas is new and all new fuel lines adjusted the valves non of them were to terrible and close to where they should of been but I Realized that when at tdc the dot on the cam gear and the dot on the rocker assembly are about a half a tooth off could that be my problem?
The dot you are concerned with is the one on the cam gear bolt housing . The dot on the cam gear should be at 11:30 which it looks like it is correct in your photo as long as your are at TDC compression.
ok I put everything back together and took it on a short test drive drove it probably 2 miles up the road and it seamed to run better now but once I turned around it and headed back to the house it died like it run out of fuel pulled off to the side of the road got it started and then got a few hundred yards down the road same thing pull over get it started and same thing did that the whole way home any ideas on this new problem
If you think it runs out of fuel, prove it by looking at the sight glass on the carb or operating the throttle to see if the accelerator pump shoots a stream of gas down the primary barrel. It could very well be the fuel pump or clogged filter between tank and pump.
it has a weber so no sight glass I changed the filter when I was driving it back to the house a couple hundred yards at a time so no issue there since the problem didn't change im thinking its a bad fuel pump just wondering if sticking with a mechanical is the best option or if it would be better to do some kind of electric inline
it has a weber so no sight glass I changed the filter when I was driving it back to the house a couple hundred yards at a time so no issue there since the problem didn't change im thinking its a bad fuel pump just wondering if sticking with a mechanical is the best option or if it would be better to do some kind of electric inline
Does it have another filter close to the tank?
I’d stick with mechanical. Half the cost, Nothing to wire and should last 100k miles. With electrical you will probably have to add a regulator as well.
Do you own a diagnostic vac gauge? Many are combination fuel pump pressure testers also. You are looking for about 4psi running(ballpark)
Last edited by Melrose 4r; Dec 4, 2018 at 02:54 AM.
Does it have another filter close to the tank?
I’d stick with mechanical. Half the cost, Nothing to wire and should last 100k miles. With electrical you will probably have to add a regulator as well.
Do you own a diagnostic vac gauge? Many are combination fuel pump pressure testers also. You are looking for about 4psi running(ballpark)
no just one inline filter and I’m already running a fuel pump regulator
Well I finally got it running right ended up the distributor was pretty far advanced only figured it out with a timing light I’m no guru but I was really surprised how well the engine idled and free reved considering it was about two teeth to far advanced thanks everyone for the help
Nov 28, 2018 | 12:33 PM
