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3.0 rebuild begins

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Old Jun 24, 2018 | 06:37 PM
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3.0 rebuild begins

Howdy all, This is my first time posting. I started tearing down my engine yesterday. I bought it new in 90. 4 years later at around 70,000 miles it blew a head gasket. The dealer repaired it at no cost to me. I put another 40,000 miles on it and it blew again with the dealer covering the cost saying the head gaskets were defective. It now has 287,000 miles on it. I have pulled my glider trailer all over New Mexico and back. Other than the head gasket problems it has been a good truck.Hope I have something to rebuild. It blew a head gasket and it has been setting since 2012. Family duties have kept me from working on till now. I will try to down load some pictures as I go. Comments welcome.
Attached Thumbnails 3.0 rebuild begins-img_1165-1-.jpg  
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Old Jun 25, 2018 | 04:59 PM
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I have all most everything disconnected except the front exhaust pipe flange. Nuts are rusted big time.Any ideas before I use a sawzall? Had to make some shade , (no trees). been 100 deg days lately.
Attached Thumbnails 3.0 rebuild begins-img_1163-1-.jpg   3.0 rebuild begins-img_1162-1-.jpg  
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Old Jun 25, 2018 | 05:01 PM
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Don't know why the pictures come out sideways. Not to savy on the computer stuff. Comments welcome.
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Old Jun 25, 2018 | 05:35 PM
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Been there, done that.......take pictures before disconnecting, every part and bolts into a labeled container, pay close attention to all electric connections, and...take pictures..
nice truck too
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Old Jun 25, 2018 | 07:14 PM
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Good luck with the rebuild!

Stay cool!

Here is how I post pictures on YotaTech: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f122...loader-301179/

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Old Jun 25, 2018 | 11:04 PM
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Nice. I'm debating putting in flat to pistons in my 3.0 to bump things up a bit. I've had no luck finding an equivalent piston so far and I don't have the $$$ for custom forged. GL dude
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Old Jun 26, 2018 | 04:56 AM
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Originally Posted by amamike91
I have all most everything disconnected except the front exhaust pipe flange. Nuts are rusted big time.Any ideas before I use a sawzall? ..............
I would use PB Blaster, then using a 6point socket...1/2” drive, driven on if necessary.. something has to give
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Old Jun 26, 2018 | 04:05 PM
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Thanks everyone for the input. I have been taggin and baggin everything.
. My 90 Toyota Extra cab 4X4.
I removed this water manifold so it would not get damaged when I pull the engine/trans.
Trying to stay cool in 100 deg heat. Worked better than I thot it would. Thanks old87yota picture instructions worked great.

More to come......
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Old Jul 16, 2018 | 06:36 PM
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Well after vacations and grandkids birthdays I am back working on the Toy. Got the engine and trans out a few days ago Busted them apart and have the engine on the stand. Going to put the trans on a stand as well but have to get longer bolts. I do have a little bit water in the oil. It turned over easy when taking the torque converter off. I was afraid it might be locked up after the few years it sat. Pulled the crossover exhaust pipe and it looks like i have water coming from the right side and the left side does not. I will have the heads off in a few days. I have lots of cleaning to do. Ran thru mud puddles along with a few oil leaks.
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Old Jul 16, 2018 | 06:38 PM
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about to get dirty now.
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Old Jul 16, 2018 | 06:48 PM
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Oh I spent a little over an hour pulling the eng/trans by myself. Letting the air out of the front tires does help. It has been awhile since my last overhaul job. I read a lot of threads and looked at even more pictures and videos. This forum is by far the best i have seen. It has made the job pretty easy so far. Comments welcome.
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Old Jul 21, 2018 | 07:43 PM
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Had a busy day taking my engine apart. Taking my time bagging and tagging everything. Found a few things that raised questions. When ya take your truck to the dealership to get the defective head gaskets replaced. One would think the mechanics are top notch ASE certified.I think I got the new guy or he was trying to slap it together to get on to the next job. The exhaust flange had a bolt instead of a stud, cross threaded, used the old nuts on the manifolds as they were all loose, missing bolts on the exhaust bracket holding the front pipe, Silicone smeared all over the rear cam seal on the right head, Sometimes FREE ain't so free. Did they bother to check if the heads/block deck were warped? Maybe that's why it had to go back 30,000 miles later. Never ran good after that. Pulling the heads tomorrow, Already know the cams will need to be replaced, rust and chips on the sides of some of the lobes. Having to make an SST for get the crank pulley off. I have not used any power tools on this engine yet. Wrenches and sockets just like the maintenance manuals lol. down loaded a few pictures to my photo album.

the dealership did this!!!
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Old Jul 21, 2018 | 07:52 PM
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Just a little bit of rust.
inside valve cover under oil fill cap. does anyone have a picture of there's that is different? Kinda looks broke don't it.
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Old Jul 22, 2018 | 05:26 PM
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This is a first. When I pulled of the left head a long red snake thing was hanging out of the water jacket on the block.
This is what was in the right head water jacket.
I would say someone used too much silicone. Will have to look to see if there is any more. Wonder if it blocked the water flow enough to cause the gaskets to pop.Who knows.I found #6 and #1 head gasket seal blown. Got the cams out and checking the shims. No burn't valves and no ridges on cylinder tops. time to find a Machine shop!!
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Old Jul 22, 2018 | 05:38 PM
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The oil pan had a little bit of water in it that had emulsified. it was no big deal until I started busting loose the head bolts. The smell was really strong. The best description is the oil field gasses (Drip gas) from the oil wells is what it smelled like. Needless to say the wife told me to fix it Quickly. I was able to put a big trash bag over the block on the stand. More to come>
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Old Jul 23, 2018 | 11:15 AM
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Yuck!

It looks like the silicone was applied like there was no tomorrow. That was done by a mechanic who just didn't care. If the head gasket was under the recall, the mechanics get paid less for these types of repairs and some just try to get things done as fast as possible because of it. This type of sloppy work ruins the reputations of good mechanics.

The valve cover baffle by the oil filler cap is broken. It should look like a "U"shape (well more semicircular than a 'U"), but the picture you have there looks like only half of the "U" is there.

You are on your way to bringing this engine back from the dead.

Good luck with the machine shop!

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Old Jul 23, 2018 | 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by old87yota
Yuck!

This type of sloppy work ruins the reputations of good mechanics
i disagree; good mechanics do not do this kind of sloppy work. only poor, incompetent or dishonest mechanics do work like that.
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Old Jul 23, 2018 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by wallytoo


I disagree; good mechanics do not do this kind of sloppy work. only poor, incompetent or dishonest mechanics do work like that.
No, I think you misunderstood, and I was probably was not clear.

What I was saying is that bad mechanics that do sloppy work ruins the reputation of good mechanics that do great work in terms of public perception. If a "good" mechanic does that kind of sloppy work, I would not consider them a good mechanic at all.

If someone from the general public had a few bad experiences with a mechanic, they typically think that most mechanics are sloppy, dishonest, and / or trying to rip them off. What I was trying to get at is that the sloppy work of one bad mechanic can creep over into the reputation of good mechanics by public perception of mechanics in general.

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Old Jul 23, 2018 | 05:27 PM
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true of most professions.
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Old Jul 30, 2018 | 05:30 PM
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Finally got the crank pulley bolt broke loose, the rest came off easy. Got the pan, oil pick up, and shield off. Found the water line fitting going to the oil cooler kinda plugged. Found a machine shop, so block and heads will be there after vacation.
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