tailgate window sometimes fails to go up down; sprayed window lock switch and works sometimes; purchased another Ebay
Q: upon removing roof, lost the BOLT A or sometimes called bolt B, ?( the one that supposed to activate/deactivate tailgate locks when roof is off)
thinking maybe this should be replaced. Where, other than Dealer, that probably doesn't stock it any longer, where can I get one or does someone know the specifications?
its an Acorn style head and about an inch long, Wonder if this is causing window lock to shut down up/down operation of glass...real mess in winter! I've used this truck 10 years and had no issues until now...it is an 86 gate going on an 87 vehicle but I think all parts are interchangeable. Any ideas,?? Thanks much

 

Have you checked a dealer website? Like http://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/

 

thanks, sent them an email inquiry; they didnt show anything like it on their website. appreciate the help

 

If you can`t find the hardware a simply matter to just bypass that switch.

If the bolt is missing how does the window work at all ??

I always had more problems with the wiper not being in the docked position.

 

Been a while since I had my hard top on, but from what I remember, those acorn head bolts are just locators for putting the top on. The bolt that pushes the plunger for the switch is just one of the regular hard top bolts. And like Wyoming says, if that bolt is actually missing, then how does it ever work? Are you certain the window lock button in the center console is not depressed?

 

thanks for info. Yeah I wonder why in past 9 years I never had any issues until now(swapped lid from my 89 b4 I parked it)...I read on some site, with a pix included, that the acorn or one of the bolts identified as "A" or "B" makes contact with a kill switch, in the gate preventing operator from moving glass up while the lid is off....
Because the window works erratically at best in winter, its become a real deal challenge. Will change center console lock switch from another purchased @ Ebay and see if that improves the function. Spraying that console window lock switch with Radio Shack cleaner seemed to promote contact, making the operation work; however, even that has failed now. I will take to a tech again and have them trace out the wires with current, etc. I have spare up/downs (3) another relay switch modge (behind the driver seat against the wall under seatbelt hanger, and now I have this spare win-lock switch...together I hope they can make a working system. The gate is an 86 going into a 87 vehicle and I recall, my mechanic had to switch over all the wiring from the old 87 gate into the replacement 86 gate to make it work. However, it did, in fact work for a year and a half. BTW, I backed into a tree deer hunting two years ago, necessitating obtaining a 4th gate for the vehicle(other two rusted out) I'm almost 70 and dont have the skills to bend over and duke it out with stubborn vehicle issues; the poor, but kind, parts dealer, didn't know what an 87 was...nor did the folks in the showroom! Thanks to all of you @ YT for providing assistance to folks like me. I bought an 89 in 1997 drove it ten years and then got another unit (87) and am running it after ten years....

 

It is to bad your mechanic is not more familiar with Toyota`s .

Trouble shooting these windows is not that hard finding the real problem is much better then just throwing parts at it.

30 year old vehicle the wires going into the hatch do like to break .

I know about dealers I had to teach them all about the older Toyota vehicles .

 

Hi O.P.,
I suggest you understand how the control system works (here) before replacing parts with parts you are not really sure are good anyway.

If you are too busy, here are a few quick checks which do not cost anything and do not take much time, and any good mechanic should do:

To eliminate the top-off switch as suspect. Disconnect the white connector from this switch below. Short the pins on white connector, and see if problem persists.


Also, disconnect connector at rear wiper assembly. That would eliminate wiper out of park position switch.
Also inspect flex wiring between body and tailgate for broken wire, broken insulation, etc.

 

Thanks RAD; wonderful info; will forward to mechanic. good luck with job search

 

Hi letted, on my thread you wrote....
Please do not let them remove the motor unless they are absolutely sure it is bad and absolutely sure replacing it will fix the problem. The motor can be tested without removing it from the truck. If they are merely guessing they could charge you for all the work they do based on their bad guess.

 

I bet I know what happened to your window lock switch and I bet that is your trouble. Pull that switch out and check it for continuity. They are a magnet for spilled drinks, debris and moisture. Mine acted like this and I too sprayed it down with contact cleaner only to watch it fall apart in my hand after the cleaner hit it. Never seen a switch do this before but it fell all to pieces like only the corrosion was holding it together. I bet you find you can't get steady continuity through that switch.

Also, I saw you replaced it with an ebay switch. I have bought several switches of different types off of ebay and two of the last three had no continuity until I worked them a dozen or so times. I bet you just have bad contacts inside both switches. Always test used switches before installing. Always!

Lastly, every thing in that system can be tested without taking much apart. Follow the harness out of the tailgate and in just a few inches, you'll find the connector. Disconnect it and you can test the window to your hearts desire with a battery and a couple of leads. Test your switches with a multi meter. Look at Rad4Runner's post for the safety switch info. Really easy. Don't let in intimidate you.

 

thanks RAD and Charchee> after 3 weeks of freezing weather up in Vermont and sporadic function with tailgate window, I succumbed and gave the mechanic(s) the original motor (I ripped it out of my rusted '87 gate that came with vehicle) they installed in 1/2 hr. So far, so good; I've used it 5 times: 5 downs and 5 back ups during shopping, dump, etc, working OK. They said they couldn't verify current shortages when the system wasn't acting up (window failing either up or down) This was always the case when I brought the truck in. Always worked at their garage; but would fail in my driveway or at work or on a task!
Cant thank you enough for the insight, expertise. My mechanics don't have the time, patience to troubleshoot all the wiring, such as the connectors and the switches. One visit, they suggested windowlock switch was culprit, sprayed, worked, then failed. Replaced,,still didn't work. After tightening a loose ground switch at the tailgate itself, they suggested motor might be failing but were only 50/50 certain. I had an extra motor as noted above, and they swapped it out.
One thing I've noted is: this gate, an '86 >> part of the wiring harness inside this gate had to be swapped. SUV is actually '87 with an '88 replacement gate. Before smashing '88 gate up while off road; it worked fine on my '87 chassis. The replacement '86 gate had a the wiring harness issue. there was one connector different on the '86 gate vs. the '88 that was currently on it..it didn't work until the swap back of short harness from the '88 on the '86 gate It then worked for year and half. Not sure what the issue was; I thought all (ALL) components from 1st GENS were interchangeable; I would have guessed 1986-87-88 definitely; maybe some of '85 and '89. I owned an '89 SR5, best one I had for 10 years, probab. 200K until it rusted to crap. re-used most everything from that on this '87 automatic except the drivetrain. Regarding interchangeability, only those that post here know for sure; I don't.
Mechanics get $80/hr/dealer $99(they dont work on much anything older than 2000) and have many vehicles in the yard waiting to come inside for service. Imagine they did a bit of troubleshooting but not thorough as you've suggested. I'm almost 70 and the days of "turning wrenches" for me is limited. Will look for someone near here that is versed in older vehicles, particularly 1st gens and perhaps older taco's with similar drive-train components.
Again thanks for the followup. I will post later with results. Would be nice to get to spring and above 45f, to be able to work on it in the backyard myself.