I finished putting in a clutch and a rear main seal. I finished putting everything together and went to start it. When I turned the key absolutlely nothing happened. No engine lights, dome light, clicking, nothing at all. I got the circuit tester out and there is power going to the starter, but nothing in the engine bay fuse box has power. Any ideas about what or where to check? Its a 1994 xtra cab with a 3.0.

 

Did you get your negative battery cable back on good and tight is every thing clean.

I would guess you did remove it because the starter came out.

Then maybe you didn`t and caused some thing to short and opened one of the fusible links .

If you have no system voltage to the fuse block it is a poor ground or a open fusible link .

Get your self a Multimeter much more useful then a circuit tester.

It could be just a discharged battery

 

Found the problem. It was me . I was in a hurry when I was finishing up and hooked the power supply to the engine fuse box on the negative terminal. Started right up when I moved it. Now I have a new problem. I'm gettin a tiny amount of grinding when shifting in or out of 2nd and 4th when I first start driving. Then after about 45 minutes of driving it gets hard to shift at all. I think this repair is gonna suck.

 

Just why did you change the clutch??

Did you also do the hydraulics as well??

Poor connection or you got dirt on the nut.



Perhaps you sucking air into the slave cylinder the more you use the clutch the more air sucked in till it no longer moves the clutch fork.

Then if they were not changed that could have been your problem to start.

 

I did put in a new slave and master cylinders. And a new line that I broke. I can try bleeding again and snuggling the blender valve in a bit more. What nut were you talking about that could have gotten dirty?

 

Any of the flare nuts a speck of dirt can cause it to suck air and not leak fluid

 

If I try bleeding and no air comes out could that rule out dirty nuts :-) ?

 

I did bleed a little bit out earlier and no air came out. I was opening the bleeder valve while someone else pumped the pedal. The fork was moving what I thought to be quite a bit. How far should it move?

 

I had one that I had to adjust the nut on the master cylinder. I forget which way I had to adjust it. Also the clutch bracket has been known to have a crack in them and not let the pedal push the rod in far enough. If I was guessing you have about an inch of movement down on the slave cylinder. Doesn't really take much for it to be engaged or disengaged.

 

I have tried adjusting the nut on the master cylinder. I order for it work any where near smooth it has to be out almost until it comes apart.

 

It is possible you got the wrong slave cylinder.

I have seen several different ones .

The rubber hose could be swelling under pressure

Your Transmission is ok and that is not in need of a rebuild?? If it is a clutch problem it would be in any gear.

2 and 4th only sounds like transmission.

Just what made you change the clutch a leaky rear seal??

 

I did have a leaking rear main. That is one of the reasons. I was having a bunch of problems shifting before the new clutch. Pretty much all the ones I am having now, but it was a lot worse before. Thats one of the weird things about this. I have pretty much the same problems, but they are all a lot better than they were.

 

I finally got back to workin on the truck. I noticed that depending on the clutch throw and whether it had been bled recently it would work just fine. So I took off the AutoZone garbage I bought, and went and got some good Toyota parts. I got a new clutch master and slave cylinder. The price difference was unreal. What cost me a little over $40 at AutoZone was $236 at the dealership. But its working so its worth the money. Hopefully it keeps shifting good. I also got a new marlink and a set of Mastercraft Courser MXTs. They seemed all right looking in pictures, but when I saw them in person I was impressed. We'll see how they do.

 

Glad you got the problem fixed !!