I have a 1990 Toyota Pickup 2wd. It rained yesterday and my truck won't start in the morning. The engine cranks, but it won't start. After a while, the engine was able to turn, but then it stopped right away. So I kept on cranking it, and it finally turns. I gave it a couple revs and drove it to work. In the evening, when I leave work, the weather was dry and the truck starts right up. No problem.

This morning, it rained again. Heavy rain. So I went out to start the truck and the same thing happened again. The truck cranks but won't start.

I opened up the hood and I saw water splashing over the ( - ) battery terminal and the electrical fuse box. I guess the hood couldn't keep water out. I wiped the water off with some napkins and went to start it again.

I kept on trying for almost 30 minutes the engine turns a bit then stopped. That was a good sign so I kept on trying and it finally starts.

What should I do next time? Was the weather too cold or too wet for it to start? Should I get a new battery?

 

If you can crank it, it's not the battery. That's a huge load on the battery, and if the battery can do that it can power everything else.

Unfortunately, most of the engine needs electricity to run (fuel pump, distributor, ecm, sensors), and electricity doesn't like water. First, your hood should keep simple rain out. Make sure you don't have leaves, etc. in the water channels; if they dam up the water, who knows where it will decide to go.

But you're going to get water in engine compartment at some point, either while driving on a wet road or in a really windy rain. So the insulation on the wiring should protect it.

Since you can crank it, my first guess is the water took out something in the ignition. Get a timing light ($20 http://www.harborfreight.com/xenon-t...l#.UxDXuPldXnc, and you need one anyway), and put the inductive pickup on #1. If the light doesn't flash, you're not firing the plug. (there are red-neck ways to check spark without a timing light, but if you get the hell shocked out of you don't say I didn't tell you the good way to do it). Then work backwards through the ignition to find the problem.

If the plugs fire but the engine doesn't, you may not be getting fuel. I suppose you could have shorted out the diagnostic plug (you reported water on the battery), which could short FP to ground and stop the pump.

 

Do exactly what scope just wrote. I put his advice on my "ok will check that out later" list before and I should not have

If I were to add anything would be to make sure your igniter , air flow meter and coil plugs are dry. They are on he far edge of the hood and may have taken in water. Shorting a number of combinations of wires may cause a no spark condition. (Names VC and E1/2). I'm brave (stupid?), I don't mind doing the redneck spark check

 

To add to this, you can put a paperclip between FP and B+ on the diagnostic port (right next to the fuse box) and turn the engine to "ON". You should hear the fuel pump run. If not you found your issue.

BUT, it is most likely shorting in the engine bay, which makes me also think it's due to water getting in somewhere it's not supposed to.

 

Since nobody else has mentioned it, I'll throw out there that a surefire sign of an igniter going bad is failure to start when it is damp out. My understanding is that just a little water in there (even just humidity sometimes) will short it out, since it is at 20,000 volts (give or take), compared to the 12V most components see.

This problem is hard to diagnose, because when it is dry enough out that you would want to messing with the truck, the igniter tests fine. It only shorts when wet.

I have to ask, are you in So. Cal.? I just got drenched this morning and yesterday too

 

It's been wet up here in Sac region too, I was thinking he's probably someone in California!

 

Yes I'm in So Cal.

 

Scope,

Thanks for your advice. I will get the timing light and test it. But the engine does turn after I kept on trying for 30 minutes. So it makes me think that the plugs do fire. I will test the diagnostic plug.

 

Another +1 for scope.


LOL! works on the 2RE - LOL!

 

Is this a 22REC engine??

I hear California is having a little rain.

Still have the rubber boot for the distributor??

My vote is for a wet cap even bad wires will cause a no start condition.

Depending on the age of cap and wires.

 

The hood is simple. Works like a roof. Should keep water out. Checked your wheel wells? Is the shroud on there?

I'm leaning toward ignition like scope says, but another thing... Do you know location of your circuit opening relay (if V6 has it)?

Do you feel/hear combustion while cranking? Does combustion stop when you release start key? If so, inspect your COR. Water could also be splashing into there. On 22RE, a windshield leak above it could also happen.

 

I had a simalar issue with my 93. I found water leaking from my windsheild onto the circuit opening relay, which controls the fuel pump. I had no fuel pressure due to the bad relay. I jumped FP and B+ in the diagnostic connector under the hood and my truck ran like a champ, which in my case I just need a relay and to seal up my windshield.

 

trying this next, and have done everything else suggested. Are there any other thing to try?

 

Break out the heat gun

Pretty interesting places water can get into

 

Is there any moisture under the distributor cap after the rain? I use the factory cap from the dealer. There is also an O-ring that goes between the cap and rotor that usually needs to be replaced. I get the factory wires off of ebay for about $30 shipped. Aftermarket ones do not stay in the cap as well.

I routinely wash my motors and never have any water problems, just need to make sure all your wiring is dry and sealed up well. Just other thing to check for.

 

^^^Exactly. I used to have a Bug that I had to dry off the points after a heavy rain. Your truck should have a rubber cover over the distributer. I know a lot of trucks are missing it and rain can find its way in.

 

Part number for the Distributor O-Ring.

 

+1 on keeping electricals dry. Also suggest using di-electric grease (100% silicone) to help improve seals on connectors and seal of distributor.

AND inspect ECU and surroundings. There is a grommet at penetration into the body inside the fender. If it's missing or not sealed properly, water splashing from wheels could get into the cab.