So I have traced the fuel smell in the recently acquired '93 xtra cab 3.0 (5 speed w/183k miles) to a faulty fuel pressure damper (no big surprise & THANK YOU to YotaTech for the awesome knowledge bank to which my wrenching life will now be pledged). I checked with the dealership and the head gaskets were replaced in '98.

This weekend I will be pulling the intake plenum and doing the following:

- New fuel pressure damper (with new copper banjo gaskets)
- valve cover gaskets
- intake plenum gasket
- upper & lower injector O-rings
- fuel filter

thinking about
- sending the injectors to witchhunter for mapping/cleaning
- EGR/PAIR delete

Is there anything else I should look at or do while I am in there (please, save the 3.4 swap comments ;O) I'm waiting till the 3.0 blows up to do that)???

 

i vote in favo9r of the egr delete! any time you can simplify a motor AND make it run better i say go for it! GOOD LUCK

 

Definitely replace your PCV valve AND the rubber grommet while you have total access.

 

Replace U shaped hose back of motor while plenum is off. You'll be glad you did.

 

The OEM washers on the FPD are aluminum, not copper. I think copper is for brake lines, but I've heard others use copper w/o problem. If you ordered all the gaskets from the dealer (I found no where else to get them), let us know if they are copper or aluminum.

I'm not a big fan of EGR deletion (you'll never be able to sell your truck in any state or Canada where they worry about air quality, plus you're polluting the air YOU breath). But you should at least pull out and look at the EGR tube that goes into the plenum (in fact, I found I had to do it to get the plenum off). It may be coated with "gunk," which will be a sign that the whole plenum is filled with it. In that case, you should clean the plenum, and to do a decent job you should remove the "freeze plugs" in the ends (someone recently posted the part numbers for those plugs; $4 each).

 

All of the water hoses on the back of the engine,Its a bear if you have to do one on the side of the road on a hot summer day.

 

Good input. PCV is another $5, so good call there. I'll take the old hoses in to get the proper lengths cut and do them at the same time. Understood that I may have some cleaning to do on the plenum; looking forward to getting dirty!

Any input on whether to send out the injectors for cleaning? It will be 7+ days to get them back and while I don't need the truck immediately it sure would be nice to just get it back together... deer hunting the next few weekends...

 

Sunwest on the injectors.Mike probally has them ready to ship, so no waiting.
http://www.sunwestautomotiveengines.com/

 

OK. Got it all apart and it was the screw that fell out of the fuel pulsation dampner. Some thread locker and it's all set. Now, for reassembly does it matter whether I use aluminum or copper crush washers on the fuel rail banjo bolts? All the parts store has is copper oil drain plug washers and they are very close in size. How critical is the ID dimension and material on these?

 

Don't know the answer to that, but the originals are ALUMINUM.

 

Yeah - I'm thinking I'll just get them from the stealership to be safe.It would be a shame to have to take it all back apart for $5 in gaskets.

Another question/issue. I broke off the two vacuum nipples on the piece in the photo below when taking out the fuel pulsation dampner. I took the 'sensor' out and found that it goes into a coolant passage, has NO thru-holes (it is essentially a plug), there are NO electrical connections, and the two nipples seem to connect directly through one-another. Is there ANY reason I cannot just splice these vacuum lines? This 'sensor' just seems to be a plug with a fitting on top that directly connects the two fittings.



Does anyone know what this is and whether I can bypass it safely?

Thanks much!

 

I believe fpd is copper o rings. I am doing/have done all of this as we speek. Have motor pulled out. That blue thing is like a temp switch. I cant remember what its called. U need it. I broke the same thing off. Getting hasty and ripping things apart. Find one a junk yard. There like 50$ or more at stealership. Might as well change ire plugs and wires while there accessible. I did every seal and gasket there is on this thing. Waiting on Doug thorley headers right now before it goes back in.

 

Search for TVV (Thermal Vacuum Valve) (or BMSV - Bimetallic Switching Valve). Welcome to the club; many of us have broken one of those nipples. Some have managed to super-glue it together, but on mine the plastic was so crumbly the fix did not take. A junk-yard one would be excellent if your plan is to replace it again within the next 12 days. (If yours is falling apart from age, how good is one on a junk vehicle?) Otherwise, spring for the $65 and get a new one.

It connects the canister to the throttle body. When the throttle opens it sucks the accumulated fumes out of the canister. The engine doesn't like doing that when it's cold, so the TVV shuts off until the engine is warmer. If you jumper the two lines you should have cold idling trouble, but who knows? If you don't connect them at all the canister will fill up and you'll smell gas on the passenger side.

 

This forum is the best thing since sliced bread. Searched TVV - 1st thread that comes up has the PN right there. Thanks MudHippy! (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...s-3vze-224860/)

I'm just gonna spring for the new one... just gotta make sure I don't break it re-installing. It's pretty tight in there. Any tips on how to get it back in. The only way SEEMS to be with an open-ended wrench, but there is hardly any room to swing. Probably a patience job.

Also - WHERE IS A GOOD PLACE TO FIND PARTS ON THE INTERWEBS? I have tried 1sttoyotaparts.com (now 'tituswilltoyota') and I find it difficult to navigate or find anything in stock. Any resources would be helpful.

 

TVV from the STEALERSHIP = $80!!!