Hey Guys!
I'm a newbie here and bought my first 4runner several weeks ago. WooHOO! Its a 1995 V6 4 wheel drive. Bought it for cheep because it needs some work including a new starter.

Got a question on the starters for these older 4runners. There seems to be a starter for the 2wd models and a different one for the 4wd models. Is there any difference between these? They look exactly the same from pics online. There is a major price difference between the 2 thats why i'm asking.

thanks for any help!!

 

3.0L 4Runner starter made by Denso. 2 types available as stock equipment. RWD/4WD w/manual, or 4WD w/automatic. The difference is the RWD/4WD w/manual type is a 1.4KW, the 4WD w/ automatic type is a 1.6KW. AFAIK that's the only difference between the 2. So I don't know for sure if they're interchangeable. But I assume they are because Toyota also lists the 1.6KW as cold weather spec. Meaning, it should fit in place of the 1.4KW, but work better in cold weather.

http://www.densoproducts.com/results...ctCategoryID=6

 

Rough translation: one is "low torque" and one is "high torque".

The manual transmission doesn't have as much "dead weight" to spin as the automatic and as such doesn't need as much torque, except in colder climates. They should be interchangeable.

The 22re's also have two starters with similar options available and they do interchange: I can take the starter from my '91 auto and put it on my '88 manual with no problems and vice-versa. Makes it interesting since I bought the starter for one at Autozone and the other at Kragen/O'Reilly's so I have to remember which store I last returned one to so I can go to the other. And neither store has had an issue with taking the starter from the other 'cause the parts have the same numbers.

It's been years since I've bought a starter, but have replaced them at least 4 times.

 

Yeah, I figured they're interchangeable.

The stock 1.4KW type starter that my truck(V6 4WD manual) was equipped with from the factory has always been sufficient(when it works). So that's what I ended up replacing it with, when the drive component went out in it. Which was cheaper than replacing just the starter drive, since it was a used starter(and WAY cheaper than buying a new/reman. starter motor assembly). But I've been second guessing myself ever since. Should I have put the 1.6KW type in instead?

I guess the only reason I didn't go with a used 1.6KW unit was I'd never heard of that "upgrade" before. So...admittedly...I chickened out. And went the "safer" route instead. For shame...that's really not much like me at all.

Oh BTW, OP, are you sure it needs a new starter anyway? As in, it's not just that the contacts need refurbished, and/or it's got a faulty drive, right?

 

Agreed, MH. When faced with the option, I opted for the one with more KW cause I sometimes work in those cold areas where a little extra cranking speed could help. They tend to burn out faster than the others but if they last long enough, the lifetime warranty pays for itself the next time you have to change it. I've got it down to where I can change the starter within 30 minutes on either of the trucks so I really don't care if it fails as long as I can get a replacement when I need it.

The higher KW starter costs more but at the shops with lifetime warrantees, if it lasts a year, you get a replacement for free... and so on and so forth.

 

Hey thanks for the replies! I'm going to go with the 1.4kw or the cheaper of the 2. Mine is an automatic trans so we'll see how it does.

 

That's not what I(and presumably abecedarian), or Toyota, would do. And, frankly, it's got bad idea written all over it. The 1.4KW type IS NOT intended to suffice for an automatic equipped vehicle. The reason for this is due to the difference in weight of the parts needing to be spun by it. As in, a flywheel weighs less than a drive/flex plate + a torque convertor(full of ATF). Make sense yet? If not, YOU NEED THE 1.6KW TYPE!!!

And the reason that I asked about the state of disrepair was in hopes that you'd realize that there were cheaper alternatives than replacing the entire starter motor assembly. Apparently I missed the mark.

So let me try this again. First, you should check to see if the contacts need replaced or refurbished. That's the most likely condition that would cause the starter to not function properly. Second, if the contacts are fine, the next most likely part to fail is the drive. Either would be CONSIDERABLY cheaper to fix than buying a new/remanufactured starter motor assembly. Even if BOTH the contacts and the drive needed fixed.

But perhaps fixing the starter doesn't apply, because it's missing(and therefore can't be repaired). I don't know. Whatever the case may be, I strongly advise you to NOT INSTALL A 1.4KW UNIT!!!

Aye, yi, yi...

 

I'm all for using cheaper parts in some cases but I would never DOWN GRADE to a lesser part than what's called for.

If it's a budget part you want get the proper starter used off CL from someone who is parting out a truck like yours. It would be better than buying a "new" starter with less capability

 

Just an update: installed the 1.4kw starter and it seems to be pulling its own weight.

Thanks guys for all the warnings on the starter. If it fails I'll post on here so others won't try it.

 

....you can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink....

 

Only a question of time!!

 

Or... you can lead the horticulture but you can't make her think.

 

Put an Air starter a la Mad Max on it! Sorry I can't find the actual clip but if you are reading this going "WTF is an airstarter?" As I understand they were more common in Australasia than the States. They are also colloquially known as "Old lady scarers." I want one when I do my surf build but it probably wont be practical. Save me drowning the starter! Or if I can figure out how to mount 2 starters, Stock electrical one and air starter, I'd have redundancy in the case of a flat battery/empty air tank. That would be ideal!

Love it!

 

Or use the compressed air to get the vehicle moving and use the vehicle's inertia to start the engine (as in "bump start").

IIRC (been a while since mechanic's school), Kenworth had a 12/24 volt system for a while- ganged two 12 volt strings to make 24v and sent that to the starter for fast cranks and switched back to parallel 12v for lights and such capacities when the key was released. Only the starter received the 24v.

+ + :jessica: + + =

 

Awwweee now y'all just givin me grief!!

Y'all check out my other thread, Need help on it!

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...nosing-258849/