Ok, I'm having some issues with my truck and thought I'd come here for some help. Yesterday I adjusted my valve lash back into spec. and the truck was running perfect. I then decided to change plugs and wires and then everything seemed to fall apart. After that the truck would not idle and was down a cylinder and would not come into timing. I have pulled the dizzy and checked timing, pulled and cleaned the signal generator and rotor, put a new cap/rotor/plugs and wires on and it still has a dead #4 cylinder. I've pulled the valve cover and the engine is timed along with the ignition timing. I've checked compression and all 4 cylinders are within spec. I cant figure out why #4 will not fire. The engine with run when your in the throttle but will not idle, and when it dies it almost seems like it wants to kick back. Has anyone had any problems like this before?

Thanks in advance.

 

Does it seem it wants to backfire? If so then you might have some plugs mixed up. What are you timing it to? 0 or 8 BTDC? Should be 0 with the vac lines off the dizzy and plugged. Which should also put the hold down bolt right in the middle of the adjustment notch of the dizzy.

 

No it doesn't seem to backfire, it just seems like it tries to fire backwards (if that makes sense) right as the engine dies. I've tried to get it timed to 0' but the I cant get it to idle, and it seem to run the smoothes at about 6' BTDC. All of the plug wires are right and when you pull the #4 wire of the plug the spark will jump onto the plug but the #4 cylinder is still dead. I'm at a loss on this one.

 

In your original post you stated it ran perfectly after valve adjustment, but after changing plugs/wires the problem started. If you made no other changes, the problem must be with sparkplug and/or wire on #4, or you mixed up the wires when you replaced. If you haven't already done these, try the following:

Check for correct wire routing (Again!).

If wire routing is correct, remove the #4 plug and check the gap. Is is correct? If it is correct, then check the ceramic (insulator) top on the plug--is there a crack? Did you drop it or bang it while installing? They are more fragile than you think. If it looks o.k., try switching #4 plug with another cylinder plug to see if problem moves to the cylinder you put #4 plug in..(mark #4 plug so you won't get it mixed up).

If spark plug checks out, remove #4 wire and use an ohm meter to measure resistance in the wire--it should not exceed 25,000 ohms. If it does, replace it. Even new wires can be broken or have internal cracks that are not visible because of outer insulation.

Hope this helps.

 

I think Rocklizard about covered it all. If the plug and wire test ok. Make sure the valve cover bolts aren't overtightened and start looking for a vacuum leak and double check you firing order/plug wire arrangement. let us know what you find. good luck

 

Is your #4 injector firing.If u have compression spark and air it must be fuel

 

where are the injectors on an 84 22R

 

Yah sorry.I was more focused on the problem than paying attention to a E.I will pay more attention next time.It is my first time on any forums trying to solve my own problem.And i am used to every one saying 22r for any late toy 4 cyl.U seem very smart.Any idea about a lifter/tapping noise on 85 22re after doing brand new head perf cam valve springs and a header with valves adjusted cold to .007 and .009 valve cover not to tight?

 

Can y'all help me, I did the gm module swap instead of buying a new igniter, I spin the distributor it gets good spark I put the distributor back in the block and no spark whatsoever, please help!