Is water induction cleaning safe?
#1
Is water induction cleaning safe?
I've been reading about using water to effectively clean the carbon off of the piston heads. Sounds kinda dangerous to me. My truck pings if I don't use high octane. I know that this is because the owner before me just ran regular gas for 160,000 miles. I had another thought also. If I get the pistons clean, run 87 in it then won't I kinda be right back where I started. I do get great gas mileage with the 93 anyways.
#4
the most common mistake is that people pour too much water in...the safest way is just a drop at a time, its pretty easy to put in too much water, and once you do that theres some costly repairs.
#6
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#11
they're both effective
Seafoam has extra chemicals added to help break down the deposits and pull them off the pistons and cyl heads, but it also has oils and lubricants in it so it's not as harsh as just plain water. Those chemicals and lubricants is why it smokes so bad when you run it through the engine; it's not the freed up carbon that causes the smoke contrary to popular belief.
Water get sucked into the combustion chamber, causes a little higher compression because water doesn't compress or burn, and that split second of extra compression helps to break some of the deposits free. Then on the ignition stroke the water is vaporized into steam, which further helps to break free and clean up the deposits and flush them out of the combustion chamber.
I've done both, and they both seemed to work for the most part. If you don't want to spend the $10 on a can of Seafoam, you can drip water into a vacuum line on the throttle body to introduce it into the system (I would suggest you at least use distilled water, because if you use tap water you may be adding other contaminants into the engine as you're taking others out in the process). A slow drip is NOT going to hydrolock your engine. You might be surprised at just how much water you have to suck into a motor to hydro lock it. And that little drip (if done for maybe 5 minutes or so) isn't going to completely clean off your cylinder walls of oil and cause damage, simply because it's in such small doses. But one thing that may make you want to consider using Seafoam over water is those extra chemicals that help to break down the deposits. When you use water, those broken free deposits aren't really going to get "broken down" so to speak. In fact, depending on how bad the deposits are, they may break off into large enough pieces to actually get caught in the catalytic converter and reduce it's flow and efficiency, which is going to lead to higher emissions, a weaker feeling engine since there's more restriction in the exhaust, and eventually an overheating and failing catalytic converter. Those extra chemicals in Seafoam are going to break down those deposits that break free and let them flow through the exhaust and come out the tip. That's one of the things I did notice different between using both methods. Using the Seafoam on the one vehicle ended with a ton of black sooty-looking fluid to come all the way out of the exhaust and drip onto the ground. Using plain water, not so much. A little, but not as much as with the Seafoam.
But that's just my $0.02 from my knowledge and experience, so take that how you will.
Seafoam has extra chemicals added to help break down the deposits and pull them off the pistons and cyl heads, but it also has oils and lubricants in it so it's not as harsh as just plain water. Those chemicals and lubricants is why it smokes so bad when you run it through the engine; it's not the freed up carbon that causes the smoke contrary to popular belief.
Water get sucked into the combustion chamber, causes a little higher compression because water doesn't compress or burn, and that split second of extra compression helps to break some of the deposits free. Then on the ignition stroke the water is vaporized into steam, which further helps to break free and clean up the deposits and flush them out of the combustion chamber.
I've done both, and they both seemed to work for the most part. If you don't want to spend the $10 on a can of Seafoam, you can drip water into a vacuum line on the throttle body to introduce it into the system (I would suggest you at least use distilled water, because if you use tap water you may be adding other contaminants into the engine as you're taking others out in the process). A slow drip is NOT going to hydrolock your engine. You might be surprised at just how much water you have to suck into a motor to hydro lock it. And that little drip (if done for maybe 5 minutes or so) isn't going to completely clean off your cylinder walls of oil and cause damage, simply because it's in such small doses. But one thing that may make you want to consider using Seafoam over water is those extra chemicals that help to break down the deposits. When you use water, those broken free deposits aren't really going to get "broken down" so to speak. In fact, depending on how bad the deposits are, they may break off into large enough pieces to actually get caught in the catalytic converter and reduce it's flow and efficiency, which is going to lead to higher emissions, a weaker feeling engine since there's more restriction in the exhaust, and eventually an overheating and failing catalytic converter. Those extra chemicals in Seafoam are going to break down those deposits that break free and let them flow through the exhaust and come out the tip. That's one of the things I did notice different between using both methods. Using the Seafoam on the one vehicle ended with a ton of black sooty-looking fluid to come all the way out of the exhaust and drip onto the ground. Using plain water, not so much. A little, but not as much as with the Seafoam.
But that's just my $0.02 from my knowledge and experience, so take that how you will.
Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; Jan 21, 2011 at 03:21 PM.
#16
Plus, under vacuum the water is going to "boil off" and turn into vapor much easier than if you were running W.O.T. (when most hydrolocks occur)
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