I just did this job on my 1988 4runner. I thought I would post what I came across

Here is my parts list:

Partsgeek.com

1988 Toyota 4Runner Ishino Head Gasket Set Engine: $249.94
1988 Toyota 4Runner Koyo Timing Belt Idler Bearing $46.94
1988 Toyota 4Runner NSK Timing Belt Idler Bearing $32.94
1988 Toyota 4Runner Goodyear Timing Belt Engine $25.94
1988 Toyota 4Runner NTC Thermostat Cooling System $19.94
1988 Toyota 4Runner T-Belt Tensioner Spring $5.94

Dealer Parts (total was about $100 if ordered online)

82219-89103 - knock sensor pigtail
16258-65010 - gasket for coolant sensors (water bypass)
90916-02378-83 - V-belt alternator
90916-02196-83 - V-belt p/s
99332-10890-78 - v-belt A/c
4 Extra exhaust nuts for the ones that got destroyed getting the cross over pipe out.

Machine work ($200)
Surface heads, replace valve stem seals

Other parts
Ace hardware #81 0-ring for coolant pipe that comes off the top of block (dealer only sells the entire pipe and o-ring as one)

Notes:

The FSM seems to be describing the job with the engine out of the car. There is no way that I saw to get that cross over pipe out, I had to leave it attached to the left head. Getting the nuts off of that pipe on the right side is a PITA and probably the most difficult part of the job.

I did not replace the head bolts since toyota says to reuse them. I read later here that everyone does replace them. I guess we will see what happens.

The head gasket set comes with a note that says this one comes with the "new" design but also says that the new one is no better than the old one. The poor head design on this motor causes the gaskets to fail and not the gasket.

I kind of wish I would have had the valve lash checked/adjusted while I had everything out. They are kind of noisy. Other than that, the truck is running great!

 

actually it's not he poor head design, it's the poor exhaust crossover design.

but good notes there, I am sure it will help someone else out.

 

Yeah, I've heard that theory. I've also heard the water jacket design/placement was to blame.

 

On my '94 3VZE, I had very little difficulty removing the exhaust cross-over using a swivel-head wrench, like this:


[The bent handle is important.] Using any sort of regular wrench would be quite difficult. And, of course, an '88 might be just enough different.

 

you mean to say the cross over exhaust pipe at the back of the block is the cause of the head gaskets failing???
what if i were to mount a strong computer fan right there blowing the heat down ??? away from the head???

 

I have heard several things about the headgaket failure etc etc etc.......but with our rebuild of my son's 3vze that we are doing , eliminating that crossover pipe by installing headers was a priority....I also know there is a way (if you are quite handy with the welder and metal fab) that you can eliminate the crossover and create your own home-brew version of a y-pipe instead.


EDIT:...to the OP...great post with the prices and all.

 

Crossover pipe - PITA alright... still struggling. Also the 3 bolts that hold the exhaust to the exhaust manifold... But will get there :-)

 

having put 3 sets of head gaskets on my truck (none due to gasket failure) I find it easier to just pull the motor and do it on a stand. As far as the valves go a little noise is a good thing in 3.0 its when they get really quiet you should worry. Very quiet can mean they are too tight and that leads to burned valves eventually.

 

^^ i agree with this guy, especially if your rig is lifted. i just did mine a few weeks ago and it can be spec up if ya got an overhead hoist and leave the mainfold, intake, and crossover all bolted on and pull it off in one big chunk. advice i got from a toyota menhanic that worked the hg campaign. good luck hg's suck on a weezy

 

When my head gasket goes my motor is coming out... and staying out LS 5.3L will be replacing it... Double the power(roughly) and way more reliable.

 

As stated, it's not the head design.
Not that either. The cooling system is more than adequate on this engine.
That's a novel idea. I don't know how well it might work though. Plus there's really 2 hot spots on the engine caused by the poor exhaust design. The #6 cylinder being the hottest, and #1 nearly as hot. My 88 actually blew the original head gasket @ ~216k miles on the #1 cylinder not #6. Both showed considerably more wear to the exhaust valves than the other 4 cylinders, indicating them having been run at higher temperature extremes.
Like I've said, the 3VZE doesn't blow any more head gaskets than any other engine of the type IMO. And it's probably slightly less of a head gasket destroyer than the 22RE too. If you ask me it's a BIG TIME internet myth that the 3VZE's got such a terrible HG problem.