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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

3VZE MAIN BEARING CAP RETARDEDNESS please advise!!??

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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 03:05 PM
  #1  
coltonstewart's Avatar
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Arrow 3VZE MAIN BEARING CAP RETARDEDNESS please advise!!??

Im just trying to get the main bearing cap off!!!!! This chilton's manual I have implies that you can get the main bearing cap off without the engine out of the truck, and says that the main bearings can be replaced with the crankshaft installed as well.

So, I came to the conclusion that the bearing cap wasn't going anywhere as easy as the book suggests and began taking everything else off including the oil pump, which I thought would provide enough clearance to wiggle the cap loose.

3VZE MAIN BEARING CAP RETARDEDNESS  please advise!!??-cimg1146.jpg-1.jpg

Now I still have the rear oil seal retainer (very left piece on block shown) clearly blocking the cap from sliding out.

3VZE MAIN BEARING CAP RETARDEDNESS  please advise!!??-cimg1145.jpg-2.jpg


Has anyone else come across this issue? They made this engine with the idea in mind that you are able to maintenence the main bearings without engine removal.....but please dont tell me I have to remove the tansmission just to remove this retarded cap!! Ill grind the bottom of the rear oil seal retainer before I go there lol.
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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 03:24 PM
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I dont care what the manual says, if you got to pull the crank, you should pull the engine.
You just cant do a good enough job ( cleaning, inspection or repair).
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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 05:01 PM
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I shouldnt have to pull the crank I am trying to get to a slipped bearing and checking bearing clearances with plastiguage. If the damage isnt bad enough to replace the crank I dont plan on pulling it
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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 06:14 PM
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If you really have a spun bearing then you have a damaged crank.
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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 06:20 PM
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From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
Why the heck are you using a Chilton's manual when you can pull the FSM directly off the web??
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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 08:20 PM
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The chiltons manual actually covers alot more procedures and is very helpful. It even contains some of the exact diagrams the FSM has.
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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 08:58 PM
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Looks like it is hitting against the rear oil seal retainer

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Old Dec 21, 2010 | 11:22 AM
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"Now I still have the rear oil seal retainer (very left piece on block shown) clearly blocking the cap from sliding out."



Haha yeah, I am aware of that, just want to know if theres a more viable alternative to removing the transmission or grinding the seal retainer.

There should be, or else this one piece is contradicting the practicality of the engine design. The access to this part of the engine without removal of the engine or crank is a characteristic developement in the 3vze, so what the hell.

Screw it, i think im just gonna grind the seal retainer....I dont yet see any function for that overhanging piece, nor do I forsee any complications with the oil pan seal or anything....
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Old Dec 21, 2010 | 11:50 AM
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The engines were NOT designed to have major work( bottom end) done to them in the truck. Its way easier ,faster and does a better job to remove the engine.

Last edited by sam333; Dec 21, 2010 at 11:52 AM.
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Old Dec 21, 2010 | 12:10 PM
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I dont have the equipment or a garage or anything necissary for engine removal. I was really trusting what the chiltons manual said, and counting on the approach. And this far into the tear-down, I just want to continue, assess damage, replace bearings and gaskets and get outta there!
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Old Dec 21, 2010 | 12:17 PM
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don't grind on it, pull the motor and do it the right way.
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Old Dec 21, 2010 | 01:14 PM
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Like usual nobody answers your question and just tells you that you are doing it wrong, even when you state upfront that you know there is an alternative.
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Old Dec 21, 2010 | 01:28 PM
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OK, having rebuilt my 3.0 if you grind on it i fore see a sealing problem when u go ahead and place the oil pan back on.
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Old Dec 21, 2010 | 02:20 PM
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I think the greater concern would be the strength of the stud mounts in that retainer if you grind enough off of there to get the bearing cap out. I guess it's worth grinding if you would rather get it done and are willing to take the risk of the oil pan leaking or having to re-do some other part of the work again later. I know that's not what you wanted to hear but these engines are PITA's to work on and really, it's easier to yank them. But I know where you are, I've rebuilt engines while open to the weather on a gravel driveway. Good luck!!
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Old Dec 21, 2010 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by rustyf99
But I know where you are, I've rebuilt engines while open to the weather on a gravel driveway. Good luck!!
You must have seen my other thread and video lol?

Yeah I can see that if i grind ill end up having to seal the hell outta those mounting studs and baffle plate. The studs dont hold alot of weight or tension so I think its worth the risk grinding...

Thanks for the input everybody

Last edited by coltonstewart; Dec 21, 2010 at 03:14 PM.
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Old Nov 13, 2015 | 02:29 AM
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fooook it grind the fooker off




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Old Nov 14, 2015 | 12:52 AM
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Red face

If the problem was not solved 5 years ago I would think it might be no longer a pressing matter
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