so i have an 85 toyota 4runner 22re and i just recently got this problem last night i pulled up to the store to grab some groceries and come out and my truck doesnt want to start. unfortunatly my truck had to spend the night at the store but i got it towed first thing in the morning. i started digging into it and checked my spark, timeing, and fuel and come to find out im not getting any power to my fuel pump. i tryed replaceing my efi relay and i changed my fuel pump and still a no go. i read a couple other wright ups on this same situation but still have not found the answer to my problem. i checked the afm and all seems good and i also checked the relay that is behind the right kick pannel behind the speaker (circut open relay) or something like that all of those seem to be good and all the ohm readings seem to be ok but still no start. i also tryed to jam open the afm flap because in another forum that worked for them but didnt help then i grounded out my diagnostic plug to see if i could get a code but it just flashed the check engine light 2times then 6times then 8times repetedly. im at a loss and dont know what else to try and was hopeing someone might be able to shead some light on this topic thanks

 

Oh boy this all sounds familiar. Try and see if you are getting fuel to the firewall where the hard line meets the rubber line if not open the access door under the rear passenger seat. See if you are gettint fuel to those lines (right out of the tank.) Fi not remove the 10 or so small bolts and pull out the pump and bracket. Check and make sure the ground wire has not rusted through. that is what killed mine. If that is good check the other wire, if all looks good, have someone try and start the truck while you look/feel the pump. If nothing then time to replace the pump.

 

If you need a new pump check autotrain.com and print out the the price including shipping. Take that into Auto Zone and they will price match it. I saved $85.00 that way. I think autotrain's price was $56.00

 

Do you hear the C.O.R. clicking when JUST BARELY turning over the key? You know, that lil "click-click" that you NEED to hear from it?(turn it to almost turning over but don't engage the starter more than a click--if possible, NONE) Some times, the COR OR EFI OR MAIN relay(have you checked that? It's in OTHER/driver side kick panel), will show 'ok' resistance, but 'NO WORKY' when it comes to 'switching'(allowing power to the pump and fuel to the injectors). MORE than once, I've seen guys pull that relay and it's TOTALLY corroded inside. Supermandave I believe was one guy with this problem you're having.

How did you check for 'power at the pump', so to speak? You said you replaced it in your post...am I reading that right? If so, was it new?....Aisin?....Bench tested if not?

 

PS> 2, 6, then 8 flashes means it's throwing codes....The ONLY normal code is "one" flash, every 4.5 seconds. However, you might have developed these codes by removing a sensor or two, unplugging the Fuel Pump, ...etc.

DO NOT clear the codes, just yet, ...because, well, simply put...You WILL NOT get any more codes for now since it's not starting, warming up, etc..........

OK< SO>

2 blinks is : Air Flow Meter Signal...................1. Airflow meter Circuit
.................................................. .............2. Airflow Meter
.................................................. .............3. Computer

6 blinks is : RPM Signal ................................1. Ignition system circuit
.................................................. .............2. Distributor
.................................................. .............3. Ignition coil and igniter

8 blinks is : Intake Air Thermo Sensor-Signal....1. Sensor Circuit
.................................................. .............2. Sensor
.................................................. .............3. Computer

Getch'a book out and start testin, right?

Best wishes, YOU'LL GET IT, just keep searching threads, too, and GOOGLE ROCKS! LOL

Mark

 

BTW, BE SURE you reconnect every sensor, module, etc. It happens, trust me, lol.

Also, keep in mind, there are A COUPLE things that can be faulty or not operating at all taht will TOTALLY shut off power to the fuel pump.

1. IF your ECU senses 'NO SPARK', ...it will NOT in some models, allow fuel to flow. Thus, to keep you from flooding or premature ignition, etc.

2. IF your ignition is bad....SAME THING.

3. If your igniter or coil or pick up or so on can't get going due to bad ignition, or there's one that's simply 'crappin out', ...NO FUEL.

4. If your AFM is blown or disconnected...NO WAY that thing is going to start. Not that I've seen, ..EVER, lol.

Multiple sensors, ignition factors, relays come in to play on this one, Nick, ....and you're going at it like a banshee, ...so you'll get it in no time. Just read through the "Fuel" section of your manual(you have a manual, right? If not, get one asap and trust me, there are many guys on here with PDF's that they'll sling atcha, ok?....Just hang through the Holiday if you can). Then read through the ignition section, ....You'll QUICKLY have a good idea of how this thing works and or ...How, in other words, "this dog aint gonna hunt" and why.

 

so i woke up this morning walked out to the garadge and tryed to turn the key to the on position to see if i could here that clicky sound u guys were talking about and i accedentally cranked it over and it started wtf! i drove it around the block and everything seemed fine but i still had my diagnostic cable grounded and it was still flashing codes idk what to do now im almost scared to drive it right now i dont want to get stranded is there anything i can look for with the truck on that might give me a sign on what could be causeing this bazar behavior?? im so confused

 

so i finally got the currage to take it out the other day and it ran like a champ im not sure what the deal is but befor i had a pritty bad cold start problem and that went away as well i think it idles and all together just runs better the only thing i replaced was the efi main relay and the fuel pump and net for the pump wierd i also still get a cheak engine light when i drive around mostly highway i had that same cheak engine light on my 86 but never any fuel pump problems and i had almost 400000 on that pump but i should of used ehurtz idea with the fuel pump i had no idea auto zone matches prices well thanks for the help everybody i hope this problem doesnt happen any time in the near future because let me tell u that fuse behind the right kick pannel is a PITFA!

 

I would also double check all of the connectors in the back of the driver side fuse panel that go into the back of the main relay!

This seems to be an extremely common type of issue with 22re in general. There is a single connector that plugs into the back of the main relay with way too short of a wire on it. It likes to wiggle loose from the fuse panel and come out of contact with the main relay.

This will actually cause the circuit opening relay (EFI relay in the passenger side) not to actuate the fuel pump and I believe also the injectors. It will cause a no fuel to cylinder issue.

Everything will seem like it should be working. You will here both your main relay and circuit opening relay click as they should. You just won't get fuel.

There is a very strong chance that the connector walked itself out of the back of the main relay on your way to the store and in the process of getting it towed and messing around with diagnosing it, it vibrated itself back into minor contact with the back of the relay.

Everyone, including myself misses it the first time it happens to them. It took me about 2 weeks or a month to figure out what was going on and that was with someone helping me out that knew more about it.

I would take the 10-20 minutes to pull the kick panel and remove the fuse panel to inspect that connection and maybe even lengthen that wire while you're in there.

If I remember correctly it is a heavier gauge black wire. It will be the one with zero slack in it.

I hope this helps.

 

wow, im glad i read this

 

ok so now ive put about 1000 miles after my fuel pump problem hit some trails up on the rim in pine and some trails in sadona AZ and im back to square one im sitting at work useing the computer stuck because once again crank but no start i keep my little conecter to cheak my trouble codes and now its flashing 5 and i looked it up and it said o2 sensor would that cause a crank but no start problem??

 

Might try your little test jumper in the fuel pump test connector:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#FuelPump

 

ok so i changed my O2 sensor then reset my ECU even though it was irrelevant to the problem then i jumped my fuel pump test connecter and i got no power to my fuel pump again so i skipped my EFI main relays because i just recently changed them along with my fuel pump and pulled apart my passenger kick panel and pulled out my open circuit relay and tested the points for power and there was none until i cranked the motor over then one of the points had power and i was also just reading on one of 4crawlers links that the trouble code 5 could also be a bad ECU

 

Are you sure the fuel pump test actually connected with terminals in the little box under the hood? I tried this the other day on my buddies truck and it didnt do anything, after jiggling it alittle it finally started buzzing. Maybe try it who knows!

 

oh and i forgot to add that with the open circuit connected there is no solenoid clicking with the starter disconnected that is if I'm getting power to the right points on the plug im not sure if there should be a constant power or not

 

does anyone know if there is suppose to be a constant power on this plug i only get power when the engine is cranked and if this is messed up maybe my open circuit relay might still be ok

 

just out of curiosity what models can i find this open circuit relay? and what years? i found an 88 2wd toyota 4 parts and a 95 runner w/ v6 for parts would the v6 have the same relay? i noticed that allot of people and there 85 toyotas have the same problem i've even been reading some on pirate 4x4 would changing the relay to a later model one for example out of an 86-88 22re would that help this problem less likely to occur in the future? sorry for all the ?s this problem is just a real pain in the ass and i'd hate for it to leave me stranded on the trail thanks for everyones help hopefully ill have it back on the road by the end of the week until then looks like i get to ride the bus to work

 

so i started working on it again and turns out the guy who owned it befor me put in a fuel pump cut off switch under the passenger seat with a relay that he unfortunatly forgot to tell me about so i went and got a new relay and installed it and still nothing i tryed it with the switch in both positions but the thing i noticed is that there is a blue wire that connects to both the open circut relay and the fuel pump cut off relay that doesnt have any power going to it and i belive it should i checked my fuses and made sure everything was hooked up good but still no luck any ideas on how to power up that blue wire??

 

What about the cylinoid on the passenger side kick panal, did you try seeing if you have power to it and it is working correctly?

 

yea its wierd that open circut relay is like a female it works when it wants to so i picked an extra one up on ebay for 25 bucks and threw it in my truck with some tools case im on the trail and it acts up on me but hopefully after i fixed up that shut off switch i think ill be ok but then again u never know