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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Need some advice plz

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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 05:59 PM
  #1  
weeman93's Avatar
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From: boone nc
Need some advice plz

So i have a 93 22re pickup and my battery died the other day cuz my alt. diod went out and so i got a new alt. well i jumped my truck off cuz the battery was still dead a little
and it cranked right up and then after about 20 seconds it started sputtering and died and i can't really figure it out it was like it was flooding it's self out
does it sounds like a maf sensor or computer ?
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 06:07 PM
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From: N. Lake Tahoe/Chico CA
try charging the battery a little before you start it. thats what i did when i got a new alt. dont know if thats your problem but that would be the first thing i would try
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 06:24 PM
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From: boone nc
thanks.
thats what i'm doing i figured it wouldn't hurt to post up and see and if that doesn't fix it i'll hit up a junkyard or something
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 06:28 PM
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From: St. Louis, MO
Make sure the new alternator is good. The truck should run even after you start it and disconnect the battery. The sputtering would indicate that there isn't enough voltage to the ecu, fuel pump and injectors.
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 06:34 PM
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From: boone nc
yeah,i had the alt.checked at advanced auto it's good i just i can't figure it out
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 10:11 PM
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From: boone nc
so yeah,as long as i have the jumper cables hooked up it runs fine but if i un-hook them it spits and sputters then dies.Any ideas ?
and i have a new alt. and good battery.
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 10:20 PM
  #7  
iamsuperbleeder's Avatar
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From: Lake City, Fl
did you have this new alternator bench-tested before installing it?

sounds like either A) you were sold a faulty alternator, or B) the main charging fuse (60 amp fuse) has blown, possibly when the regulator when out in the last one


OOOOR...

C) there's a bad ground to the engine block and/or alternaor casing


OOOOOOORRR.....

D) the wiring harness that plugs into the alternator is damged...

Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; Apr 23, 2010 at 10:21 PM.
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 11:09 PM
  #8  
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From: hendersonville, TN.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...er+supply+wire
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Old Apr 24, 2010 | 03:38 AM
  #9  
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From: New Brunswick, Canada
Years ago when engines had points, condensors, etc before all of the electronics, you could start a vehicle remove the battery cables from the posts and it would still run. Today you can't do that and you don't want to try because it will fry much of your electronic circuits, especially the ECU. If you boosted your truck with the other vehicle running, your engine could be running as a result of the other vehicles electrical system. So shut it off and boost your truck just off of the battery. If your truck will not run, the problem is in your electrical system, if your truck runs okay as long as the jumper cables are on, your electrical system is fine but your battery is toast. 12 volt batteries can be fine today and fail tomorrow, that's just the way they go. You may have checked your battery with a DC voltmeter and registered a good voltage reading, but what is that voltage when you put a load (starting current) on the battery? If your battery has shorted plates as soon as you put a load on that battery your voltage is going to drop dramatically. Unless you have had a battery discharge test done on your battery, there is no way of knowing that your battery is good for sure. Most major auto parts stores have a load test bench and they can test your battery and many will do it for free.
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Old Apr 24, 2010 | 10:48 PM
  #10  
weeman93's Avatar
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From: boone nc
thanks everyone for the help,I'm gonna give it a shot on getting my battery charged and tested and if it keeps up i let everyone know.
Thanks.
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