Just bought my first 80s yota pickup! Very excited!



It is just too bad that after owning it for about an hour I experienced a stall. The truck huffed and puffed like it was out of gas. It was not out of gas...

The truck started right back up and I was on my merry way, but after getting it home, it held a super high idle. I poped the hood and found where the previous owner had used a long spring and attached it from the throttle to some chord down below. The spring helps hold the throttle at a lower position. wow



I also noticed that most of the exterior carb parts don't move too easily.

I also found some white particles in a secondary fuel filter near the carb intake.



I have purchased a new fuel filter and I will be putting it in today along with cleaning out the secondary one. I also put some sea foam into the premium gas I added.

After examining the motor at idle this morning I noticed a hole in the manifold that allows me to see inside the head. It is blowing hot air out. Is this a serious problem?



Any suggestions? I am very worried about the carburetor and my pocket book.



It is great to be a yotatech member.

 

First off....COOL truck....I reaaly dig the paint job!!

Now for some advice:

1. Lube up ALL of your linkage...(WD-40 or PB Blaster works well)

2. Replace those old fuel lines and replace that fuel filter with the PROPER one.

3. LC Engineering sells blockoff plates for that hole in your exhaust manifold....or, just fab some up.

Again....sweet looking truck....half the fun of owning a "prestigious" 1st gen yota is workin on it...lots of info here and some other online forums....ask around because there's alot of knowledgeable folks here that have "been there done that".

Welcome to YT....and good luck with the truck!!!

 

Eeek!!

Well let's see...the simplest thing would be to find a used carb in better shape. Or you could rebuild this one. I had decent luck with garaunteedcarburetors (you'd have to google, I don't remember the exact name). Rebuilt carbs for under $200. I think your "hole" in the head is where the previous owner removed the copper pipe that used to cover that hole and allow some exhaust gas to recirculate back into the combustion chamber. EGR. You need to either plug it, or find one and put it back on. Plugging is probably your best bet. Check the "desmogging an early 22R" thread.

Basically you've got a FUBARed fuel and emissions system. It's something that you could spend a lot of money on. But you could also just buy a Weber carb and lose all that emissions stuff. Get some block off plates and be done. You'd be back in business for under $300. Seems to me all your issues are carb/emission related.

The truck is worth it!! (from the looks of it anyways...I don't know it's overall condition)

Welcome to Yotatech

 

Oh, and you may want to look into cleaning the gas tank. All you need to do is drop the guard covering it, and pull the drain plug. Any crap sitting in the bottom of the tank will dump out with the remaining gas. Obviously you want to run the tank to basically empty first...

It's possible you've got a bunch of crap in there.

What you will learn is that no matter what you do to the truck, it will always take some tinkering/work. That's ok! Just do it yourself, find cheap (but quality) parts. These are easy to work on. Can be frustrating, but there's really not much you can't do yourself on this truck if you're willing to spend a little time. Other than engine/tranny rebuilds, most stuff is pretty cheap & easy. It'll just need TLC and fine tuning/tinkering here and there.

My truck always needs something, but so far has always got me where I need to go.

 

Thanks for the posts guys!

Don't get me wrong. I am proud to own a first gen toyota! and I know it will take some work and I am more then willing...

So I have access to another Aisin carb from the same model truck. Should I rebuild that one or buy a weber?

I can also get the plate that would fill the hole on the manifold. If I put that on will the 22r run better or worse?

Do you guys think the stall has to do with the carb or is it just fuel line/blockage problems?

 

I had a thought about how that might have all happened. let me know if this is crazy:

Okay, in one of the other "holes" I see where the previous owner had fabed a very shotty plug. It looks to be simi-welded in the hole. So, perhaps both were plugged when I bought it and one of them popped/rattled out. Would that have any effect on the motor stalling? I always thought air flow was not bad for an engine...

 

looks like a badass rig! just go to a pick n pull type yard and grab some parts dude simple as that cheap as hell and there usually good parts just make sure you dont have any other problems before you start you dont want to make a bunch of trips

is your throttle getting held up on all that jibjab under there im confused on all those hoses and springs lol but then again i dont have a 1st gen so im not exactly sure on what they look like under the hood

but the whole buy a new carb or rebuild it is totally up to you to choose it becuase it depends on how much money your willing to spend at the time pull the carb apart and make sure you can rebuild it before you buy a rebuild kit if that the route you chose you never know!

tune it up make sure the firing order is correct i know only a retard could mess that up on a four cylinder but it looks like this guy rigged it all up.. and that hole in the header will probably just make it have a wierd sound if anything at all?

ps digging the bed

 

oh yeah whats all that oil like residue on the engine block and theres hoses on there that look pinched or kinked replace those hoses bro and white residue??????!!!!!!! could be nothing probably just some kind of condensation Good luck

PS i want your flat bed

 

I am starting to feel that my truck has been about half de-smogged. How lame is that?

So I am missing some parts and it def has been jimmied a bit.



The spring and the blocked hoses worry me.

Does anyone have advise on whether I should replace the carb or just try to continue to add on to the jimmied setup?

If I get another carb, will I be able to go ahead and finish the de-smog process that is kind of done so far?

Does anyone know what those blocked hoses go to and/or if they matter?

 

Basically, my main question is:

If I get a Weber, will I need the parts I am missing now?

 

You need to plug those PAIR ports on your exhaust manifold one way or the other, get plates here:

http://www.lceperformance.com/22R-Ai...-p/1045000.htm

You will need two.

My advice, if you are on a budget, is to rebuild your current carb, or get another Aisin from a junkyard. If not, 50/50 split between stock Aisin carb and a Weber 32/36, both have huge followings.

Burn the EGR and pair valves, block plates for the EGR, make sure your vacuum advance on the distributor is straight, and rock on!

 

Like Pumpkinyota said, pretty much the only vaccuum line you really need to keep is the distributer advance. All the others can be junked, as long as you plug them all so that you don't have vaccuum leaks.

And I'll say this now because you're asking a lot of questions that get rehashed over and over and over again on forums like this: SEARCH. Learn how to search. 90% of the info you want is out there. If something isn't clear or isn't covered, then ask questions. But keep us updated and don't be afraid to ask questions! Just show that you're doing a little work on your own. The info you need is all out there, already been covered.

Yes of course any hole in your engine is a bad thing. Could very well be that yes, a home made plug rattled out. Doesn't matter. What matters is that you need to get is plugged up again. Some simple searching will show you what all your emissions stuff is doing and what you need and don't need for the truck to run. As long as you don't need to pass emissions testing. If you do...whole different deal.

 

So the problem has become a bit more consistent. After driving a few miles and running the truck at normal temp, it dies. If I let it cool or spray the carb with some cleaner, It will start back up but run like crap until I get home.

Okay, so I changed the fuel filter and a few of the lines. I also drained the gas tank and didn't really have too much debris in the gas. The truck drove much better after, I drove it for about 20 minutes. I even got to do a little of this:



I have ordered the parts for the full de-smogging and will be working on that next week hopefully.

-Chris

 

I think she is doing MUCH better!

I took it out on two trips today. Both times I drove for over 12 miles and about 20-30 minutes. It ran great the whole time! There was no need for carb spray at all.

It's a great day to own an '83

 

Nice! I'm interested to see if it stays that way. Mine has an intermittent stalling issue too. It comes & goes...

 

So I believe that it has to do with the alternator or some other battery related issue...

It drove great again today, but every time it has run good, I have not used the radio at all. The radio is installed so that it can be used without the key. Perhaps there is some sort of problem with the way it is hooked up that when it is used even during driving, it kills the battery and/or the alternator is not able to send enough juice to the spark plugs. Is this a sign of a deteriorating alternator (i feel like I read that somewhere) or maybe just bad wiring?

 

my 1980 has an aftermarket kenwood cd player that i hooked up seperate from the ignition (like yours), and after 2 years i dont have any electrical issues, my guess is your problem lays elsewhere, i would change the alternator, try to find a used one.