So I recently finished HG replacement/TB replacement and also got my heads planed, valves grinded and set up for spec clearances. I took them to a local machine shop as I don't have the equipment or know how to do that kind of\ work. Now it's all back together timed to spec and seems to be running decent, but when I listen to her rev the valves are super loud and sound like they're tapping. My brother told me that after a head is set up like that sometimes its gotta get broken in kinda. I'm thinking this guy didn't set it up so great. What do you guys think? Is this normal after major work on the heads being done, or do they need to be adjusted more so?

 

Thats cause they need to be re shimmed. Be careful running like that. These engines don't have lifters. the cam pushes a shim right on top of the valve/valve spring assembly and opens the valves. If the valves weren't re-shimmed after the valve job, all of the valves are probably too loose, worse yet they could be too tight which can cause exhaust valves to burn. Did you give it to the machine shop with the cams? did it come back with the cams attached?

Kirk

 

I did give them to him with the cams in them and he was supposed to adjust the valve clearances with the shims. Doesn't sound like its right though.

 

Doesn't sound like its right to me. Were any of the shims new? There should have been. It's definately not lifter noise though. Break out a copy of the FSM (downloadable here on the site) grab a set of feeler gauges and check? This way you know what to say to the machine shop when you call. (and complain)

 

Alright, thanks for the advice. I'll let you know how this turns out.

 

Please do. post back up.

 

A lot of machine shops will adjust the valve clearance by trimming the valve stem height. He might have adjusted the valves on the looser end of the allowed clearance to allow for the valves to wear into the seats a bit. Best way is to recheck the valve clearance as suggested and see if they are within specs.

 

You can check the drivers-side clearances without too much investment; maybe that'll be enough to confirm these theories. Passenger-side is tougher since the plenum's tough to remove.

 

Valve lash is set with the engine hot... how do you do that with a cam, buckets and shims, and without a hot head?

 

WRONG! They're set cold on the 3.0.

 

Valve clearance (Cold):
Intake 0.18 - 0.28 mm (0.007 - 0.011 in.)
Exhaust 0.22 - 0.32 mm (0.009 - 0.013 in.)

 

22RE valves measured with hot head

3VZE valves measured with cold head (good thing too, since it takes a while to get that plenum off!)

 

oops. forgot that.

 

I had the same problem about 15k miles after i did my hgs. Tore it back down and found valves extremely tight on passenger side head. IT wiped the cam lobe and bowled the shim. Redjusted all valves and replaced cam-Good to Go. I took my heads to a machine shop without the cams so im guessing it was my mistake

 

I had something similar after my rebuild, but it was not the valve clearances. I tore the plenum off to find that the valve clearances were in spec on all valves. I did find one that was at the top of the range and one that was at the bottom, but they met the spec. I swapped shims on those two to put both of them in the middle.

What it ended up being was my injectors that I had sent off to be cleaned/serviced. After I put it back together and started it I went over it with a stethoscope and what do you know, the damn fuel injectors make all the racket. They still do it, 13k miles later.

The 3VZE is a noisy motor.

Might want to listen to the motor with a stethoscope first, before tearing the plenum off.

 

Yeah, I need to do the same thing, weird noise coming from top end.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=41966