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Is my clutch toast?

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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 12:27 PM
  #1  
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Is my clutch toast?

Hello, Im having some problems with my clutch. On the way home from work today the clutch began to release when the pedal was only about an inch off the floor. When I got home I hopped underneath to take a look at the clutch release cylinder while I had someone push the clutch pedal. The clutch release cylinder moved the release fork about an inch or so. Does that seem the correct amount of travel? Just trying to determine which part in the clutch system is failing. The clutch is of unknown age and miles, it was on the truck when I got it about 7 years and over 100k miles ago. I have done alot of trailer pulling during this time. I Guess I thought any time when the clutch went bad it would just slip when engaged.
Any thoughts or experinces appreciated
thanks-jon
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 01:00 PM
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yeah, that seems to be the right amount of travel for the slave cylinder. maybe it just needs to be bled, replaced if its leaking.
you can get them fairly cheap.

try that first, then if it still does it get you a new clutch and throwout bearing, and have your fly wheel turned
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 03:29 PM
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I keep thinking slave cylinder, but it seems to me if it were bad or there was air in the lines then it would not move the clutch fork that inch or so. What do you all think?
thanks-jon
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 05:26 PM
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I think it's hydraulic related. Replace the master and slave, bleed it, and call 'er a day.
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 05:47 PM
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Thanks for all the replys! went out and checked it again. No leaks, and a good inch of fork movement. Is there away to test more? Just dont want to replace soething If I dont have to.
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Old Feb 27, 2010 | 05:15 AM
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Anybody else have this same problem and solve it?
thanks-jon
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Old Feb 27, 2010 | 08:26 AM
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Okay, went out again had wife hold clutch down while I was under the truck, while I was looking at the slave cylinder with pedal to the floor the fork began to slowly push the piston of the slave cylinder back in all by itself. So, I guess its a hydraulic problem after all. Would this be the master cylinder or the slave cylinder or is there no way to tell?
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Old Feb 27, 2010 | 10:24 PM
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Yeah, just get any run of the mill parts.
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 04:48 AM
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Thanks for all the replys! It looks like at this point I will just go with the local Auto zone stuff. I will post back after its been swapped out to detail if it fixed the problems. Nothing more annoying then searching old threads, finding your exact problem yet no solution is ever posted. thanks
-jon
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 05:26 AM
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I purchased both master and slave cylinders at the local Car Quest parts house for ~$50. I could have purchased on-line cheaper but I couldn't wait on the mail and I like to buy local when I can. Took me about 1 hour to replace both. Typically you will see a wetness around the rubber boot on the master or slave cylinders when these begin to fail.

Here's a time-saving tip: Before installing the new master, take a look at the old one to see where the clevis is on the push rod. Adjust the clevis on the new master to have a similar length to your old one.

Good luck with it.
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 05:52 AM
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From: hubert nc
get a vacum and suck all the air out of the line.

bench bleed the master cylinder before you install it...


you can pick up a pretty decent hand vacum from harbor frieght tools for a good price...

cuts down on the mess.
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 07:42 AM
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Thanks for the tips, I will put them to use.
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 07:54 AM
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From: hubert nc
there's nothing better then change a whole clucth; and master cyl and slave cly on the side of the road with cars whippin by over 55 mph.. i've been down that road...
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 08:25 AM
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If you look in the Factory Service Manual, it will give you the specs and procedure on adjusting the push rod on that master cylinder.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...manual-156129/

Your truck should be covered under the 1993 manual if there isn't a specific 1989 manual available. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 01:29 PM
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Thanks every one for the replys! Here is the verdict for future searchers. I first changed out the slave cylinder and bled the system, it gave me a slightly better pedal feel but no change, the clutch still began to engage if you held the pedal down for more then 30 sec. So, I changed the master cylinder and bled the system, and the problem was cured. The clutch operates now as it should.
Thanks-jon
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 01:59 PM
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From: hubert nc
good deal, nothing better than trying to split the trans from the engine on the side of the road.. and it just doesnt want to come apart..
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 94svt50
Hello, Im having some problems with my clutch. On the way home from work today the clutch began to release when the pedal was only about an inch off the floor. When I got home I hopped underneath to take a look at the clutch release cylinder while I had someone push the clutch pedal. The clutch release cylinder moved the release fork about an inch or so. Does that seem the correct amount of travel? Just trying to determine which part in the clutch system is failing. The clutch is of unknown age and miles, it was on the truck when I got it about 7 years and over 100k miles ago. I have done alot of trailer pulling during this time. I Guess I thought any time when the clutch went bad it would just slip when engaged.
Any thoughts or experinces appreciated
thanks-jon

i had this problem in my bronco II and it ended up just being the clutch plate was hella warn down replaced it after i blew it up and was good as new
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