I am new to this Forum but I though you guys might like to see my 4runner 3vze project. I bought it for $800 with blown head gaskets and 206,000mi. When I took it apart I found that the number 6 cylinder was slightly scored and the wrist pin was seized in the piston. So at at that point I decided to do a full build hope you guys like it. And yes those are ARP Head studs MLS Head Gaskets from LC Engineering and all Toyota O.E.M. crank and rod bearings as well as the piston that was replaced.



I am going to be adding pics to this thread as the Build progresses!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Here are some more pics

 

And one more pic of the other side and you can see that the engine has been painted.

 

So correct me if I am wrong but did you say "a full rebuild on a 3.0" then later say you replaced "THE PISTON THAT WAS REPLACED" No offence but if you replaced only 1 piston
1. How is it a "Full Rebuild"
2. Don't you think it is a waste of time and money to just replace one piston and not have the cylinders and blocked checked by a shop or someone that understands how to check for issue's you can't see with your eye?
3.Try Photobucket for posting your pics and maybe if you do have all these things done it can been seen in your pics cause these pics you posted don't really make it easy to tell.

 

ALL the pistons are in great shape except for the one on number 6 and that is the one that was replaced. The block deck surface was machined, both heads milled, all valves replaced and valve seats cut, Crankshaft was cleaned and polished, all rod and crank bearings replaced, all 6 cylinders were honed. I was going to replace all 6 pistons and rods and bore all of the cylinders, but the rods are perfect, pistons 1-5 are perfect, and all the cylinders still had factory crosshatching. In doing some research I could not find anyone with a torqueplate for boring purposes. And I also found out that the cylinders are laser cut from the factory which makes them very hard. Because of these reasons I decided to stay with the stock pistons because they will outlast all the aftermarket ones. I have checked all of the oil clearances in the lower end, as well as the ring to bore and piston to bore clearances and they are perfect at the tight end of the spec. I would never guess that this engine has 206,000mi on it by looking at the internals. I am doing this rebuild myself, as I am a fully certified technician, with Toyota, Ford, GM, Mazda and ASE certifications.

 

Much better description , makes more since now your first post was just so vague it really made no since to just do one piston and hope the rest of the motor was going to be fine.

 

Wow that's some good previous owners, looks like besides the HG, the engine was VERY well taken care of.

Any special plans for the 3.0 while its being rebuilt?

 

Glad to see someone else that appreciates their V6!

Good call on the rebuild too, I see way too many perfectly good parts tossed and replaced because people are too lazy or don't understand how to inspect them.

 

I rebuilt mine at 218k and it also had ZERO cylinder wear~ I mic'd them all and was astounded that it still had the origina crosshatching clearly visible. I wish all engines were made this well....

Good luck & let us know if you have any questions, there are SEVERAL good rebuild threads. I did one but all the pics are gone because putfile.com went t*ts up.

 

Other than the upgraded MLS Head Gaskets and the ARP head Studs the engine is going to be stock. I milled the heads and decked the block, so my compression will be bumped up slightly. This is going to be my DD so I want to get another 200,000mi out of her.

 

I would suggest you check your compression when you done & see what you're running at. If it's high, think about adjusting your VAFM inside about 1-3 click richer to compensate. Made a huge difference with mine at 210 psi...

 

How do you adjust it? I have never heard or seen of this and I am a certified Toyota Technician.

 

Peel the silicone off the cover once inside mark the point where the needle is before doing any thing else (once you have a good mark if you have to reset it later) move the wheel clock wise 1-3 clicks to richin it up and counter clock wise to lean it when you have found your sweet spot put the cover back on and re silicone it shut.

 

you wouldn't happen to have a pic would you?

 

Seems I deleted that one but the black plastic piece on the afm on top is the part that needs to come off just peel the silicone that holds it on out remove the top and you will see the wheel right under it.

Just remembered I still have one opened up so I took a few pics for you so here you go,
also when you do this kind of keep a bit of pressure on the wheel so it don't spin out of control because you will never get it back to the original starting point.
TURN IT ONE CLICK AT A TIME I moved the catch arm out with one hand and turned the wheel with the other again ONE CLICK AT A TIME test drive it after each click see how it acts till you find the correct setting.




Notice the little green mark I put on it for the original starting point

 

Nice! thanks olharleyman! I have been searching like crazy on how to do this!!!

 

My 3vze also blew head gasket at #6cyl; at 225,000mi. If you have any advice on rebuild I would appreciate.

Did you install the heads on block before or after installation into engine bay.
How did the ARP studs work out for you; any torque reccomendations
I was thinking of installing heads after block is in bay.
Also; how much was milled off heads and block. Can you still run low octane
gas.
Did you replace knock sensor, valve springs ect.
Thanks for info

 

I am going to put the heads on first and then install the engine as an assembly. The ehaust crossover pipe can be difficult to install in the engine compartment. It is much easier to install the heads on the stand. I cannot remember the stud torque I will post that later. I did replace the knock sensor and wiring. I didn't replace and valves or valve springs they looked good in my engine. I usually run mid to high grade fuel anyway, but you could probably get away with low octane fuel as long as there isn't any fuel knock/pinging, if there is then you will have to run higher octane fuel. I am in the middle of the build so I don't have any feedback on the studs, but I am very confident and I have had good luck with them on other engines.