Help Needed...Panhard Drop Needed?
#1
Help Needed...Rear Panhard Rod Drop Required?
I'm sorry if I am beating a dead horse...I am confused as to whether a rear panhard rod drop is necessary after installing the rear OME HD Spring/shock combo.
I seem to recall some info. on relocating (moving UP) the driver's side as opposed to dropping the passenger side. Any help on the following would be greatly appreciated:
1. Do I need to relocate the panhard rod?
2. Is it because the angle after the lift may cause alignment or performance issues?
3. Do I go UP with the Driver's side or DOWN with the Passenger side?
4. Is there a bolt-on kit or is welded-on the only option.
5. Where can I get the recommended kit?
Also, My eBrake lite is coming on. How do I adjust/modify this system? Does someone make a kit or is there a parts list for a self-mod?
Thanks all.
Matt
I seem to recall some info. on relocating (moving UP) the driver's side as opposed to dropping the passenger side. Any help on the following would be greatly appreciated:
1. Do I need to relocate the panhard rod?
2. Is it because the angle after the lift may cause alignment or performance issues?
3. Do I go UP with the Driver's side or DOWN with the Passenger side?
4. Is there a bolt-on kit or is welded-on the only option.
5. Where can I get the recommended kit?
Also, My eBrake lite is coming on. How do I adjust/modify this system? Does someone make a kit or is there a parts list for a self-mod?
Thanks all.
Matt
Last edited by emptyd; Sep 25, 2003 at 12:04 AM.
#2
I think you mean panhard rod.
If it (PR) is at a severe angle, you'll have a) driveshaft hitting gastank skid under extreme articulation and b) vehicle not tracking straight.
You can get bolt on ones, but I think they are parts of lift kits typically, so weld on might be your only option. (not 100% sure on that). You go "down" on the passenger side.
You can try Sonoran Steel (schaefer3) for a weld on model.
For the brake issue, it's just a plate - easily fabbed. Someone with a 3rd Gen got a pic?
If it (PR) is at a severe angle, you'll have a) driveshaft hitting gastank skid under extreme articulation and b) vehicle not tracking straight.
You can get bolt on ones, but I think they are parts of lift kits typically, so weld on might be your only option. (not 100% sure on that). You go "down" on the passenger side.
You can try Sonoran Steel (schaefer3) for a weld on model.
For the brake issue, it's just a plate - easily fabbed. Someone with a 3rd Gen got a pic?
Last edited by Cebby; Sep 24, 2003 at 11:24 PM.
#6
Originally posted by Cebby
For the brake issue, it's just a plate - easily fabbed. Someone with a 3rd Gen got a pic?
For the brake issue, it's just a plate - easily fabbed. Someone with a 3rd Gen got a pic?
Good Luck,
Nak
#7
Originally posted by 44Runner
Here are some pics:
Here are some pics:
EDIT: I just realized who posted that. 44Runner has a ton of rear lift to go with his Dana 44 SA up front.
Last edited by Cebby; Sep 25, 2003 at 06:06 AM.
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#8
Nak,
Downey claims "no can do"...the drop brackets they sell are only for the 90-95. My rig is a 2000.
Anyone familiar with ProComp's offerings? I know that they used to make one for the 4Runner (maybe earlier versions as well)?
Downey claims "no can do"...the drop brackets they sell are only for the 90-95. My rig is a 2000.
Anyone familiar with ProComp's offerings? I know that they used to make one for the 4Runner (maybe earlier versions as well)?
#9
Originally posted by emptyd
Nak,
Downey claims "no can do"...the drop brackets they sell are only for the 90-95. My rig is a 2000.
Anyone familiar with ProComp's offerings? I know that they used to make one for the 4Runner (maybe earlier versions as well)?
Nak,
Downey claims "no can do"...the drop brackets they sell are only for the 90-95. My rig is a 2000.
Anyone familiar with ProComp's offerings? I know that they used to make one for the 4Runner (maybe earlier versions as well)?
#10
Originally posted by emptyd
Nak,
Downey claims "no can do"...the drop brackets they sell are only for the 90-95. My rig is a 2000.
Anyone familiar with ProComp's offerings? I know that they used to make one for the 4Runner (maybe earlier versions as well)?
Nak,
Downey claims "no can do"...the drop brackets they sell are only for the 90-95. My rig is a 2000.
Anyone familiar with ProComp's offerings? I know that they used to make one for the 4Runner (maybe earlier versions as well)?
Nak
#11
Originally posted by The Nak
I was only referring to the bracket for the brake issue, sorry for the mixup.
Nak
I was only referring to the bracket for the brake issue, sorry for the mixup.
Nak
I just used a strap from the door hardware section and enlarged the existing holes.
Last edited by keisur; Sep 25, 2003 at 09:34 AM.
#12
A little thicker perhaps
Originally posted by keisur
go to lowes or homodepot and get a 3 inch flat bar maybe 1" wide and 1/16" thick and drill two holes 2.5" apart and unscrew the ebrake and bolt it to the bracket and then use the screw you pulled to screw the bracket to the ebrake mount on the diff. don't buy one, if they are even available, it's cost like $1 to do.
go to lowes or homodepot and get a 3 inch flat bar maybe 1" wide and 1/16" thick and drill two holes 2.5" apart and unscrew the ebrake and bolt it to the bracket and then use the screw you pulled to screw the bracket to the ebrake mount on the diff. don't buy one, if they are even available, it's cost like $1 to do.
I fabbed mine out of 1/4" because I didn't have any 3/16, just takes a bit longer bolt.
My 0.02

Brian
#13
Originally posted by keisur
go to lowes or homodepot and get a 3 inch flat bar maybe 1" wide and 1/16" thick and drill two holes 2.5" apart and unscrew the ebrake and bolt it to the bracket and then use the screw you pulled to screw the bracket to the ebrake mount on the diff. don't buy one, if they are even available, it's cost like $1 to do.
I just used a strap from the door hardware section and enlarged the existing holes.
go to lowes or homodepot and get a 3 inch flat bar maybe 1" wide and 1/16" thick and drill two holes 2.5" apart and unscrew the ebrake and bolt it to the bracket and then use the screw you pulled to screw the bracket to the ebrake mount on the diff. don't buy one, if they are even available, it's cost like $1 to do.
I just used a strap from the door hardware section and enlarged the existing holes.
THANKS! Pics. and everything - you rock.
Matt
#14
Re: A little thicker perhaps
Originally posted by waskillywabbit
I agree, except I would go a bit thicker than 1/16, perhaps 3/16, as that is the thickness most "fabbed" ones.
I fabbed mine out of 1/4" because I didn't have any 3/16, just takes a bit longer bolt.
My 0.02

Brian
I agree, except I would go a bit thicker than 1/16, perhaps 3/16, as that is the thickness most "fabbed" ones.
I fabbed mine out of 1/4" because I didn't have any 3/16, just takes a bit longer bolt.
My 0.02

Brian
really, I think mine is about 3/16". It doesn't really see much load, it just holds the cable housing so it doesn't get hung up in something or deflect when you rip up the ebrake to pull donuts in an icy parking lot.
#15
Re: Re: A little thicker perhaps
Originally posted by keisur
I think you should just use a strip of tinfoil folded in half you alabama redneck!
really, I think mine is about 3/16". It doesn't really see much load, it just holds the cable housing so it doesn't get hung up in something or deflect when you rip up the ebrake to pull donuts in an icy parking lot.
I think you should just use a strip of tinfoil folded in half you alabama redneck!
really, I think mine is about 3/16". It doesn't really see much load, it just holds the cable housing so it doesn't get hung up in something or deflect when you rip up the ebrake to pull donuts in an icy parking lot.


Brian
#16
Re: Re: Re: A little thicker perhaps
Originally posted by waskillywabbit
Don't give away all my secrets! Next you'll be telling them about my super duper secret rusty coat hanger custom made antenna!

Brian
Don't give away all my secrets! Next you'll be telling them about my super duper secret rusty coat hanger custom made antenna!


Brian
on topic: just make sure you hold the strap in a vise when you go to enlarge the holes. I was doing mine while laying under the rearend and about lost my fingers because I thought I was superman and tried to hold one end drill the hole. when it finally popped through I let go fast enough to just scare the buhjeeziss out of me, then I crawled out and clamped it in a vise and finished the job.
#17
Re: Re: Re: Re: A little thicker perhaps
Originally posted by keisur
that was supposed to be a secret? oops.
on topic: just make sure you hold the strap in a vise when you go to enlarge the holes. I was doing mine while laying under the rearend and about lost my fingers because I thought I was superman and tried to hold one end drill the hole. when it finally popped through I let go fast enough to just scare the buhjeeziss out of me, then I crawled out and clamped it in a vise and finished the job.
that was supposed to be a secret? oops.
on topic: just make sure you hold the strap in a vise when you go to enlarge the holes. I was doing mine while laying under the rearend and about lost my fingers because I thought I was superman and tried to hold one end drill the hole. when it finally popped through I let go fast enough to just scare the buhjeeziss out of me, then I crawled out and clamped it in a vise and finished the job.
#18
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: A little thicker perhaps
Originally posted by emptyd
Thanks for the heads up...unfortunately, the only vice I have is a penchant for drinking. I'm working on that though.
Thanks for the heads up...unfortunately, the only vice I have is a penchant for drinking. I'm working on that though.
In that case you could just hold it in your teeth and drill the hole. who needs those things anyway, they seem to do alright here in Texas without them, I'm talking about teeth.
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