i was out muddin in 2 wheel drive today...(no front driveshaft) and i got stuck and my friend was winchin me out...and while he was winching i was drivin my truck..and he stopped and said my axle is twisting up..so i went and looked at it while he drove it...and sure enough...i gots some axle wrap...is this bad...if so how do i fix it...it looks real bad...so please help..thanks

Ken,

 

Yes, can be bad, you lose traction as the spring load up and unload (a.k.s. wheel hop) and can damage the springs if it goes too far.

Fixes include traction bars:
- http://www.budbuilt.com/new/traction_bars.html

Anti-wrap leaves:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspe...l#Update-part2
which can also be a lower overload leaf with a tall keeper on the rear half like the stock springs have.

 

I got a back shaft 2.

 

This was my solution:



https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f88/.../#post50595855

Works very well.

 

What size blocks are you running?

 

im not running any blocks..its all stock...could somebody point me in the direction of some anti-wrap leaves...thanks...i know a traction bar will fix it...but...idk how much they cost...and i imagine they cost quiet a bit...and if i got traction bars...then i'd run 2..one on each side...just so it would look better...like the lifted chevies...

 

from his link: Update-part2:
Note to self: overload leaves make a spring pack very stiff! So, after testing the 5-leaf pack out I found the short-stiff overload was causing the pack to be too stiff and it looked like it was going to kink the longer leaves, since it didn't bend at the tip. So, time for another plan...
I had been kicking the idea of making an anti-wrap leaf for my front springs like the rear Alcan's had. Basically an anti-wrap leaf is a half-leaf that sits on top of the spring pack with a clamp that goes under the springs. As the axle tries to tip down in back from the torque reaction at the wheels, the anti-wrap leaf resists that torque by lifting at the front of the springs. I had the original 7 leaves I originally ran and I wanted to end up with 6 load leaves, so I chose the modified rear 4Runner leaf (the one I had cut the mil-wraps off of) and cut it in half, about 3.5" behind the center bolt hole. Then, I removed the bolted-on spring clamp and flipped it over, same with the spring anti-friction pad. Then, to match the arch of the pickup leaves, I ran this leaf through my press to give it some more arch and then clamped it, and the remaining 6 leaves into a pack consisting of:
Anti-wrap leaf - '85 4Runner rear #2 leaf minus mil-wrap front half (see image below):
Main leaf - '83 pickup rear #1 leaf
2nd leaf - '83 pickup rear #2 leaf
3rd leaf - '83 pickup rear #3 leaf
4th leaf - '85 4Runner rear #3 leaf
5th leaf - '85 4Runner rear #4 leaf; long half (cut at center bolt hole)
6th leaf - '85 4Runner rear #4 leaf; short half (cut at center bolt hole)
The 5th and 6th leaves were made out of one stock leaf, which was cut in two pieces at its center bolt hole then new center bolt holes were drilled in the new centers to attach the leaves to the pack. I use two clamps to hold the leaves together, one in front that is attached to the anti-wrap leaf and one in back, see above photos.
So, how does this spring pack work? In a word, amazing! Wheel hop seems to be a thing of the past. I had the anti-wrap leaves in back, but none up front. I used to experience a lot of wheel hop when I would start to lose traction. I had assumed that the anti-wrap leaves in back were just not doing the job of controlling hop very well. WRONG! It was the lack of anti-wrap up front that would start the hop, then when the front axle unloaded, the rear axle would take the full torque, wind up and hop, etc. Now that the front and rear are equally controlled, I can now ease off the throttle when I lose traction, let all 4 wheels turn slowly, while I work the steering searching for traction. Its really neat to be apparently hung up on an obstacle, but with some subtle steering input, you work your way free and continue on your way.

see post #2 4Crawler already did, just hit the boneyard for a couple of spring packs.

edit: sorry man just noticed that his write up was for front anti wrap springs, but what he did seems like it might work for the rear..

 

I have the same problem. I have a 4" block on my 92 with 7" shackles on the stock springs. My axle twists up so much that the you joints get stuck and the drive shaft won't even turn. So I'm thinking about getting stiffer 4" lift spring and taking the blocks out. As well as getting a traction bar. Let me know how you like the anti wrap bar

 

I used traction shocks on my trekker .. way less harsh then a full traction bar ..

mock up pic





you can see the final pic on the build page

.

 

You know the last post was 2.5 years ago?
For an anti wrap system I like BudBuilt's:
http://budbuilt.com/index.php?page=s...art&Itemid=170

 

SLACKER

How well would that system work in my yota , im running stock 8 inch diffs in my 82 with 4 inch leafs i think 4 leaf pack , with a slightly modified chevy 350turbo 400 trans and 205 trans case?? i've wanted to build a trac bar or buy one but the cost of buying is too much for something i could build?? i like your idea of using shocks

 

I think you would like it , works great .. as mentioned , not "harsh" like a traction bar , and no loss of clearance


.

 

thanks i will let you know how it holds up when i get around to it , great idea

 

I have run a Downy Traction Shock system for 25+ years. The system eliminates axle twist, wheel hop, spring wrap up, etc. but unlike traction bars the system allows suspension flexibility, full travel, etc. I have improved my traction shock system by having Rancho make me a special set of 9000XL series adjustable shocks so I can dial in the traction shock effect that I want for different road / off-road conditions.

 

You could do a spring under axle swap. Requires some pretty pricey leaf packs though. May as well link it if you're gunna spend that kind of money.

 

A mid to late 70's f150 radius arm works well too, cut the end off the bushing side, weld on a heim, and you'll be cooking with gas.