Been searching... efi relay quagmire...
#1
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Been searching... efi relay quagmire...
Good afternoon ladies and gentlemen.
I'm helping my buddy with his 89 Toyota pickup 22RE. There seems to be an issue of not getting power signal to the EFI relay which means to me that the ignition switch although all the fuses are good and everything powers on it's not sending the signal to the portion of the vehicle which is possibly the closed circuit relay, to close the loop and allow power through the EFI relay to start the motor.
I know none of the history of this except that when it was brought to me they jump the fuel system through the EFI relay in order to get it to run and bring it to me and what I discovered was the white wire with black stripe and red rings, going from passenger kick panel to fuel sending unit and fuel pump (this is a ground wire), was overheated, and melted into several others throughout the harness up into the cab harness, and I'm sure beyond that, but not in the engine bay area that I have found.
I have a Chilton with chassis electrical for several different models but what I'm looking from you guys for is the color of the wire and its route to the closing circuit that gives the signal to the EFI relay so that I may follow it and find the true error which caused this failure.
currently I do not know whether the ground wire going back to the tank and sending unit was heated and fried prior to them jumping the power to the EFI unit when they drove it here. I have fully tested the MAF sensor and it is well within range of all the tests
thank you for your assistance in this :-)
warm regards, and mud bogs for all,
Gary
I'm helping my buddy with his 89 Toyota pickup 22RE. There seems to be an issue of not getting power signal to the EFI relay which means to me that the ignition switch although all the fuses are good and everything powers on it's not sending the signal to the portion of the vehicle which is possibly the closed circuit relay, to close the loop and allow power through the EFI relay to start the motor.
I know none of the history of this except that when it was brought to me they jump the fuel system through the EFI relay in order to get it to run and bring it to me and what I discovered was the white wire with black stripe and red rings, going from passenger kick panel to fuel sending unit and fuel pump (this is a ground wire), was overheated, and melted into several others throughout the harness up into the cab harness, and I'm sure beyond that, but not in the engine bay area that I have found.
I have a Chilton with chassis electrical for several different models but what I'm looking from you guys for is the color of the wire and its route to the closing circuit that gives the signal to the EFI relay so that I may follow it and find the true error which caused this failure.
currently I do not know whether the ground wire going back to the tank and sending unit was heated and fried prior to them jumping the power to the EFI unit when they drove it here. I have fully tested the MAF sensor and it is well within range of all the tests
thank you for your assistance in this :-)
warm regards, and mud bogs for all,
Gary
#2
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Welcome to YotaTech.
I know little about the 22re, particularly the "older" ones. (Rad4runner may be the one you want comments from.) But I've found the electrical system to be very similar through the 2nd gens.
I assume that your reference to the "closed circuit relay" and the "closing circuit" is actually to the Circuit Opening Relay. Anyway, the EFI relay (under the hood) is triggered by the ignition switch, through the EFI fuse, then a blk-yello wire to the EFI relay. The EFI relay POWERS the COR (next to the glove compartment) through a Wht-Red wire. The COR powers the fuel pump, with battery on a blue wire and ground through a Wht-Blk wire. (I assume this last one is the one that is cooked.) Melting a ground wire could be due to a garden-variety short circuit somewhere, but that should melt the blue wire as well. So more likely the wire was damaged and ended up with a high-resistance point, which overheated. Obviously, in your case, that wire has to go. Along with any others that were melted.
These colors come from a '94 EWD. While very consistent over the years, it would not surprise me if one or two were changed.
Good luck!
I know little about the 22re, particularly the "older" ones. (Rad4runner may be the one you want comments from.) But I've found the electrical system to be very similar through the 2nd gens.
I assume that your reference to the "closed circuit relay" and the "closing circuit" is actually to the Circuit Opening Relay. Anyway, the EFI relay (under the hood) is triggered by the ignition switch, through the EFI fuse, then a blk-yello wire to the EFI relay. The EFI relay POWERS the COR (next to the glove compartment) through a Wht-Red wire. The COR powers the fuel pump, with battery on a blue wire and ground through a Wht-Blk wire. (I assume this last one is the one that is cooked.) Melting a ground wire could be due to a garden-variety short circuit somewhere, but that should melt the blue wire as well. So more likely the wire was damaged and ended up with a high-resistance point, which overheated. Obviously, in your case, that wire has to go. Along with any others that were melted.
These colors come from a '94 EWD. While very consistent over the years, it would not surprise me if one or two were changed.
Good luck!
#3
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For starters if the cel lights at key in run position, you are in the wrong tree, the ECU is powered up.
Load test the IGN & EFI fuses, remember they can partially blow look fine and just not be able to provide enough current.
IGN fuse supplies the EFI relay on pin #1(hotside of switch)
...
It's obviously been exposed to an over current situation, this may have damaged the fusible link. FL can partially fail, in which case you get a brownout (not enough current drops the voltages below the threshold and the ECU cuts off), everything will seem to function untill you pull to much current.
Load test the IGN & EFI fuses, remember they can partially blow look fine and just not be able to provide enough current.
IGN fuse supplies the EFI relay on pin #1(hotside of switch)
...
It's obviously been exposed to an over current situation, this may have damaged the fusible link. FL can partially fail, in which case you get a brownout (not enough current drops the voltages below the threshold and the ECU cuts off), everything will seem to function untill you pull to much current.
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Okay, thank you for those words and yes I am going to remove the entire harness all the way to the back and replace the entire black and white ground and anything else that may be compromised this is going to be a hell of a trip. Also the fuses are absolutely functional which I tested with both of multimeter and a test light both at the fuses and behind the fuses.
the circuit relay at the PM is not getting b+ with key on.
and the most interesting and frustrating part is that at no point ever, even jumpering the efi relay to power and starting the engine, there is NO cell light function whatsoever. Yes, good bulb, I replaced it yesterday with new bulb, and swapped it with visibly working high beam bulb.
I am positive that the immediate issue is starting at ign 2 wire which touts directly to a relay which closes and sends power to efi relay from that point.
I will go now and follow the ign wires as stated above and post the results.
thank you.
the circuit relay at the PM is not getting b+ with key on.
and the most interesting and frustrating part is that at no point ever, even jumpering the efi relay to power and starting the engine, there is NO cell light function whatsoever. Yes, good bulb, I replaced it yesterday with new bulb, and swapped it with visibly working high beam bulb.
I am positive that the immediate issue is starting at ign 2 wire which touts directly to a relay which closes and sends power to efi relay from that point.
I will go now and follow the ign wires as stated above and post the results.
thank you.
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I have told my fuse box away from the left kick panel and I have unplugged the unit that goes into the fuse box beneath the fuses and there is no wire of the colors you mentioned leaving the fuse panel so I'm going to have to use my multimeter to find the correct ones that come off of the outside of the 7.5 amp fuse
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There is a three wire plug on the back of my fuse box one is black with a red stripe one is black with a yellow stripe and one is blue with a red stripe and they all three power up with the key on but neither of them will go out when the 7.5 amp fuse is pulled meaning that they have nothing to do with that fuse and I cannot find the wire coming off of the back of this fuse box that is powered up with the fuse in place while the key is on
#7
Sorry, I cannot see words. Pics are better.
1988 schematic. See if it's close to yours...
1988 schematic. See if it's close to yours...
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#8
#10
Pls take clear pics so we'll see what u hav in front of u.
Use arrows to point at things. Hard to see words.
Use arrows to point at things. Hard to see words.
#12
BTW, really need pics because 1989 is transition year. may be different from 1989 4Runner.
on our 4Runners. EFi relay is behind driver side kick panel here: https://photos.google.com/u/1/album/...8M7JKVC6FKUX6f
Circuit opening relay is behind glove compartment.
on our 4Runners. EFi relay is behind driver side kick panel here: https://photos.google.com/u/1/album/...8M7JKVC6FKUX6f
Circuit opening relay is behind glove compartment.
#14
Please post it here. You can attach it to your post, OR post it on photo hosting site like Google Photo or Flickr, then EMBED the photo URL on your post.
Yeah these trucks are confusing. Like Frankenstein creations, BUT reliable if not neglected / butchered.
We'd be happy to help you out.
Cheers!
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 08-21-2018 at 11:45 PM.
#16
#19
Lol lol!
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