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Looks like the redneck P/O stood on the roof at some point and bent the roof support down. It wasn’t even touching the roof skin.
Scratched my head for a while, then decided I had a plan.
Jacked up the roof brace, drills more holes in the brace, marked spots on the roof skin, sanded the spots, JB Welded some bolts to the roof skin and then threaded nuts to pull the roof brace back up to shape.
My plan worked in application, but the roof brace just pulled the roof skin down instead of pulling the brace up.
I could not for the life of me figure out how to get the roof brace to come out, so I just ended up cutting the roof brace in half just to the left of the dome light mounting location.
my plan now is to weld it back together, bend it to the actual proper shape of the roof, then put it back in with either rivets or tack welds and a good amount of adhesives, etc.
This is why:
a. We can’t have nice things
and
b. Why my hair is going to turn grey before this thing is done.
Simultaneously I ordered a one piece back window glass and rubber seal from rock auto.
The price was amazing, and the glass was perfect.
But it needs to be BLACK, so I ran the back window glass and the rear pop-outs to a local tint shop that installs CERAMIC film. This way there will be no “edge” on the film and it saves money because they don’t have to crawl around inside a car to install it.
Going with 5% on the back window and 35% over top of the factory 20% on the pop-outs to get the glass to blend together nicely.
Not sure why, exactly, but I’m sure it’s a combination of old rubber seals, worn latches, and who knows what else, but the rear windows just seem to have a sloppy seal. Not very secure, not very “snappy” to open and close.
Upon taking the hinges and latches off, I found the rubber “grommets” that go through the holes in the glass to be almost completely compressed, allowing some play, as well as some worn pins in the latches. All of these parts were available from the dealership still, so I ordered the grommets and new latches to prepare for the windows to come back so I could install them in a jiffy, etc...
I think the latch assemblies from Toyota were around $40 each, but when you’re dumping money into an audio system in a ride driven by a teenager, I think it was a worthwhile investment.
More to come. These posts pretty much bring me up to speed as of today.
Last edited by 55reasons; Jun 11, 2018 at 08:15 PM.
Reason: typos
So back to work on the monumental task of soundproofing a T100, lol.
In all fairness, I’ve done much more difficult vehicles, so it’s not that bad.
The biggest PITA on this one to get an airtight seal, is the recesses for the rear passenger seat belt roller. It’s just awkward and requires a lot of creative application to get a 100% sealed area.
While climbing around inside I could no longer ignore the rust on the transfer case shifter plate and bolts, so I ran all the metal parts through the wire wheel on the bench grinder and hit them with some rustoleum to keep the elements out. While it was out, I sealed around the hole with “dynamat”, then sealed the seams with foil tape, and finally cut a piece of 1/8” insulating foam so when I put it back down, the base plate pressed it all into an airtight seal. One less piece of cancer to worry about.
Before I get into this shenanigan with the Toyota VIP security system wiring removal, has anyone come across the original wiring diagram for it so I know where to look to remove all the leeches?
Drove it up to pick up the window latch parts today.
Honestly, it’s nice with no back window. Got me thinking about installing a “safari” back window hinge. Who knows. That’s another project.
Anyway, picked up the quarter window latches and grommets.
Honestly, not a bad deal for just under $100.
Couldn’t ignore the looming Toyota security system override / removal questions in my head, so I brought it home and started tracing wires.
Basically, my Toyota VIP RS3200 is a glorified keyless entry. The wire pigtail goes into the driver side kick panel and plugs in between the factory harness connectors.
Easy day. Ripped it out.
I’m pretty sure it works, it just needs a new remote.
Anyone interested, let me know and I’ll be willing to sell for cheap just to not feel bad about throwing it in the trash.
It would probably be a cool accessory for a period correct truck.
Last edited by 55reasons; Jun 13, 2018 at 09:49 AM.
Reason: Typo
When it comes to T100s it sure is. I don't know how much help you'll get with T100 specific info. But I sure am digging your build.
With the sound proofing, you're just laying down the pad and then taping over all of the seams? I laid peel and seal on the floor of my runner but really had no idea what I was doing. It did cut down on the road noise, but I still need to do my doors.
1. Obviously, it’s an easy gap filler for any areas where you don’t want a lot of thickness. An example would be rubber / plastic cap cutouts for the body mount bolts, around window seals, etc.
2. Sound deadener material has a tendency to dry out when exposed to oxygen. So the “sticky” side is best served by not allowing the “tar-like” material to be exposed. So even a small piece I will tape around the edges to keep it from peeling, oozing out, etc.
3. Foil tape is a giant roll of papercuts though, so plan accordingly.
Too bad the T100 gets treated like the red headed stepchild. People will regret that. Aside from the quirky suspension stuff, the T100 is a perfect drivetrain example of Toyota with the 3.4, manual transfer case, etc....
In another 10 years I feel like the prices will be double what they are today.
Jun 11, 2018 | 07:54 PM
What a great start to bringing this rig back. Your boy is a lucky kid!
