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Whats up RAD4Runner! I used RTV (gasket maker) to secure it. The screen pieces are lightweight so I wouldn't imagine them falling off. However, if they did, they'd be contained in the cowl cavity.
BTW: I've decided to delete the rear heater from the coolant circuit for the time being. The pipes are pretty crudded up and I'm trying to GTFO of CA so for the sake of time, I'm deleting it. I may or may not reconnect it in the future. So for now, I need to cap the T-sections in the engine bay where the hoses connect to the piping beneath the floorboard and cap off the other ends too.
The hoses under the floorboard connecting the rear heater to the pipes were a PITA to disconnect.
Last edited by TrailTrek2Fish; Apr 3, 2018 at 10:27 PM.
may i ask whats a good upgrade to the ct20....a t3.t4.....a 2860r......or??? for the t3/t4 what A/R housing would you recommend for the turbine and compressor
You'd be better off asking the whole YotaTech community by starting your own post/thread, terik. Hijacking someone else's thread isn't cool. This is my build thread for my Turbo 4Runner, everyone doesn't gravitate to my post so you wouldn't get many responses on my thread. Besides, I'm not a pro at choosing turbos, I just chose the turbo I did because it was supposed to be a bolt on & go. Did you even bother reading my thread from the beginning?
Last edited by TrailTrek2Fish; Apr 4, 2018 at 08:51 AM.
This is why I haven't poured in any coolant yet. I had to clean out the heater/coolant hoses and fittings as much as I could. I'm trying to prevent old corrosion from breaking off and clogging a heater/coolant line somewhere in the system like the heater/coolant line entering and exiting the turbo. I used these brushes to dislodge most of the crud. They wire tips are coated and have less chance of damaging the inside of the hoses. I wire brushed the corrosion off of the fittings. These hoses are discontinued so I decided to reuse the original ones so I don't have a routing problem. I pray I don't regret this decision.
Last edited by TrailTrek2Fish; Apr 4, 2018 at 01:17 PM.
I finally found the R12 to R134A conversion adapter fittings for my AC Compressor. I ordered some from RockAuto.Com but the 4Seasons fittings were the incorrect size and I can't return them because I opened the heat sealed plastic packaging; how else would I have known if they fit???!!! Anyhow, I went to CarQuest Auto Parts and they had a kit from AC Pro but only one of those fit and they were made of aluminum so I returned them because I needed the High & Low side fittings. I even went to a Toyota dealership and the service and parts guys said they didn't carry the adapters. I finally went to Monument Car Parts and found the correct ones made by 4Seasons.
All of my AC components are brand new OEM Denso (compressor, condenser, evaporator, expansion valve and drier/accumulator) brand. I had to add the lubricant to the components which needed a small amount to start. I also changed out all of the O-ring seals in the circuit. I pray we don't discover any leaks during the refrigerant charging process.
Before I installed the R12 to R134A adapters I removed the schrader valves from the OEM fittings because the adapters have schrader valves in them.
Last edited by TrailTrek2Fish; Apr 5, 2018 at 01:48 PM.
Look up what category your topic falls into and click on "new thread." It's located about 1/4 of a way down on the left side of your computer screen. Simple as that. I'm sure more well versed folks with in depth turbo knowledge will point you in the appropriate direction.
Last edited by TrailTrek2Fish; Apr 5, 2018 at 06:32 PM.
WoW! I saw this picture in my email but not in this thread. Either way, when is the first start?!
Also, I would recommend changing that brake fluid while you're at it.
Sorry, it too me a few tries to get the video imbedded in the thread. Finally got it,
We fired her up just a couple of hours ago. I'm very very glad she started but we discovered a small coolant leak(s) on the lower manifold area. My buddy is gonna bring his nifty pressurizer thingamajig tomorrow morning so we can trace the exact source without having to fire her up and get her engine hot.
Last edited by TrailTrek2Fish; Apr 7, 2018 at 02:14 PM.
I wish I had that kind of extra money to give away!
BTW: A guy at the local O'rielly Auto Parts has a blue colored (interior and exterior) turbo regular cab pickup. It's in good overall shape. He said he bought it brand new back in '86.
Last edited by TrailTrek2Fish; Apr 7, 2018 at 07:35 PM.
If you recall or look back on page 10 of this thread you'll remember I removed the turbo coolant return pipe off of the turbo charge pipe. I ended up running it along the firewall then to the inlet on the radiator.
Ok we found the source of the leak. My buddy brought over his cooling system tester. We pressurized the system to 10psi and immediately observed coolant seeping from the thermostat housing area. I removed the housing and realized I forgot to add RTV to fill in the pitting on the lower intake manifold-thermostat seat, Rookie mistake. I gotta wait a full day before I refill the coolant.
Apr 3, 2018 | 10:13 PM
Rookie mistake. I gotta wait a full day before I refill the coolant.
