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Melrose 4r, I have to be totally honest, I'm on the fence between a new set of OEM rotors for a '91 V6 4Runner and a new set of StopTech slotted rotors for that same vintage. I have slotted Brembo rotors in my Lexus is300 which have faithfully served me very well for over a decade. Believe me when I tell you that I put those rotors through their paces. Though I definitely won't buy the cross-drilled version for May, even if they're cryogenically treated. Cross-drilled rotors have way too many holes for small rocks and pebbles to get into during a 4wheelin' session, Yikes!
Right on Gevo, thanks. My logic is this... Yes, May is technically undergoing a resto-mod and an all OEM rebuild would fetch her more value but I need her to be very trail capable. I just really would like to refrain from any major augmentations of her original framework just to make room for an SAS which would only see it's full potential on obstacles I wouldn't challenge anyway. I'm sure my wallet appreciates this mindset too. I'll leave those sections for the super gnarly trail rigs I drool over from time to time, LOL! The bottom line is, I just don't want to jeapordize her value. Being that 22RET's aren't very abundant these days, I figure that she'll be worth more barely touched than moderately modded. Life happens, so if I were to ever be in NEED of a notable amount of ca$h, I feel more comfortable knowing that my investment of components going into May's revival won't adversely affect her value in the long run should I ever need her value to someday be a factor. Believe me, I know the SAS vs. IFS debate could go on forever and ever but I'd prefer that heated discussion stay out of this thread, so I figure that I should lay out my reasoning for my IFS decision. No disrespect to the SAS guys/gals. I just don't want to perform any frame cutting on May.
Last edited by TrailTrek2Fish; 06-19-2017 at 09:17 AM.
I just snuck in an inspection mirror beneath May's OEM turbo exhaust manifold (17141-35120). So there it is there, it is definitely cracked between the #2 & #3.
Cracked OEM Exhaust Manifold
Last edited by TrailTrek2Fish; 06-19-2017 at 10:49 AM.
I just watched a very interesting DIY video on how to remove rust using electrolysis. This technique is gonna come in handy for May's rebuild! I just need to designate an area outside of my house to do this because THE DANGER of performing this DIY electrolysis process is it creates HYDROGEN GAS as a byproduct. THE HYDROGEN GAS MUST BE ABLE TO DISSIPATE FREELY INTO THE AIR so performing this in a closed room like a closed garage would trap the hydrogen gas and all it would take to cause an explosion is an electrical spark. Yes, a f@#kin' EXPLOSION! That my friends, would be very mucho no bueno. But, I'm gonna give it a try.
Last edited by TrailTrek2Fish; 06-20-2017 at 04:41 PM.
This is the condition of my digital meter. I have no clue how the meter was damaged? All of the gauges work but I'm afraid that I need to replace it with another complete meter or... I can perhaps purchase the parts from one of y'all from perhaps a digital meter that's non-operational? If any of those options are feasible, please send me a PM with a photo of the meter/part. It will be much appreciated. Thanks ahead for your time and consideration!
ENGINE: DOA Racing 22RTE 215 HP @ 6psi. (I'm going to eventually rebuild the original engine and keep it as a spare with OEM specs) Hopefully DOA doesnt screw you. I know in the past theyve had some QC issues and refused to refund.
TURBO: LCE Garret GT25R Kit (1071013)
EXHAUST MANIFOLD: I'm staying with the OEM Exhaust Manifold (17141-35120) Id go for the LCE since yours is cracked. the Speed Steed manifold puts the turbo pointing up, not down.
TURBO VACUUM BOST CONTROLLER: TBD... Keep in mind that the OEM ECU can only compensate for about 8PSI of boost. anything else will make it go haywire. you CAN overcome this by AFM mods, swapping to a supra AFM(only 1 year is compatible), adjusting idle mixture, but without going full standalone, theres really no point in it.
EXHAUST PIPE: 2.5" Stainless Steel Pipe 2.25" is what the LCE kit is. if you go to 2.5" you are gonna need a step up between them. Also, while talking with a few folks, theyve recommended to keep it a smaller diameter. even though its a turbo, it still needs SOME back pressure.
CATALYTIC CONVERTOR: 3-Way Catalytic Convertor TBD... Order extra flanges and gaskets from LCE and build a test pipe to swap the cat out after you smog it.
MUFFLER: TBD... I chose a borla proxs. im not a fan of the way flowmasters make these motors sound like hondas.
3 ROW RADIATOR: Dave'z Off Road Performance Extra Cooling 3 Row for RTE Watch out for DAVEZ...... many people have been screwed over by him, including a friend of mine. i got the LCE rad for the 22rte. its not setup for it. honestly, get your factory rad rotted and recored. or, i can get you the part number for the CSF radiator that LCE buys and modifies. then take it to a rad shop to have it modified. much cheaper.
HEADLIGHT CONVERSION: ARB IPF H4 Headlight Insert (ARB820H) Go with truck-lites for the LED conversion. the H4s are nice, but remember to upgrade the headlight wiring harness. Speak to RAD4runner about it.
HEADLAMPS: PIAA Xtreme White Plus 4000k (15224)
FOG LIGHTS: PIAA 2000 Series Ion (02011)
FRONT BUMPER: All-Pro Off Road with a Top Fill Plate and Handles Check out Addicted Offroad. Scotty is an awesome guy and a member here.
REAR BUMPER: Badland Bumper IIRC, Badland used to be called Kennesaw Mountain. They had some SERIOUS issues. if thats the case, be careful.
ROCK SLIDERS: Marlin Crawlers (MCAR-611) check out Stubbs Welding. He make some aresome and super beefy sliders.
FRONT LOCKER: ARB 7.5" IFS Differential (MCDF-17-ARB-456)
REAR LOCKER: ARB 8" RD132 (MCDF-211)
AIR COMPRESSOR: ARB High Output or ARB Maximum Performance (MCLE-313)
IFS LIFT KIT: TBD... (I know most of you will give me crap about staying with IFS but I do not want to hack away at the frame/mounts to accomodate an SAS) Blazeland ALL THE WAY. Send a message to Blazen8 on here and like the devil, he will appear. Hes an awesome guy to work with, a small company owner, and will help you with whatever questions you may have.
TIRES: 33's TBD...
Thanks Heironymous Josch! I really love Dusty, my '88 Pickup, but I only have room for 2 in my garage. So May, my '86 Turbo, won out. The other space is for my Lexus is300, Sophie.
I just looked at Blazeland's website. Thank you so much for the heads up about them. I gotta do more reading to see if it fits my needs or if it's under/overkill. I need a lift that will withstand the abuse on the Rubicon Trail at least once a year. It's just over a 3hr drive from my garage to the staging area next to Loon Lake so I'd be a fool not to partake in sum'a'that action. LOL! I'm not too proud to bypass Big & Little Sluice, though I heard that Little Sluice isn't the same as it used to be when I last went on the trail in 2003/2004 in my buddy's Chevy K5. As of late, I've also been eyeing the Fordyce Creek Trail. Though I'm pretty sure that I'd need to slap a snorkel on my '86 Turbo to do the crossing. Woohoo! On the flips side of that coin, she needs to be a daily driver. Thanks for the well wish, I'll be subscribing to your '88 4Runner build. Good luck to you as well!
That's a lot of top-notch wheeling you've got planned! I've yet to do the Rubicon but I most certainly will. Probably next summer, I reckon. If I do, I'll give you a heads up, maybe you can give me some local tips.
Before I decided to go with Blazeland long travel, I, like you, had decided against a solid axle swap. I was looking at BJ spacers, high end torsion bars and shocks. I had enough smarter and more experienced toyota people seed me with enough doubt in the the BJ spacers that I changed course. A lot of guys swear by them but the fact remains, they negatively modify your CV geometry and if you intend to take your rig on the rubicon and other pretty serious trails, broken CV's are a real concern.
If BJ spacers and SAS are out, what's left? Body lift? All that gives you is tire clearance. Long Travel gives you incredible articulation on the front end and you can dial the lift in to whatever height you want with the T-bars. That and the Blazeland system is designed around the longer T-100 axles which means you get all that extra travel without putting your axle into compromising geometry. If you go with a lifetime warranty on the CV axles, then you've got a trail hog with a very daily driver friendly IFS rig. I went top of range everything with my front, well aside from a hy-steer setup. I bought the Pro-Forged Idler Arm with brass bushings from 4crawler, it's meant to be the single best steering upgrade to our IFS rigs. All up the Long Travel is only going to be marginally cheaper than an axle swap would have been but I'm going to have a truck that fits my needs better.
Dude, good luck with your planning and research. I love that part of a project!
isnt that Toyotech559's truck? hes has his Blazeland for ages and has little to no complaints about them. Hes not as active on here as he used to be, but hes usually good for anbswering questions when he logs in. of you can find him on his instagram. hes much more active there.
Thanks for the way you formatted your notes, space-junk. I'll maticulously peruse through it.
Thanks for the video link, Heironymous Josch. Seeing the Blazeland setup in action is very helpful in the decision making process. I love this process too. Slightly stressfully pleasant. LOL!
My purchasing order of priority is... (Dictated by my Budget of Course )
1. Radiator
2. Turbo
3. Engine
4. New Engine Compartment Hoses. ALL of them.
5. Exhaust
6. Lockers (4.88 Front & Rear) & Compressor
7. Suspension Lift
8. Wheels & Tires
9. Bumpers
10. Paint Job
Interior Parts as I find them.
Last edited by TrailTrek2Fish; 06-20-2017 at 10:20 PM.
might want to suggest a re-gear in there between 6 and 8. with the auto trans and 33s, youre gonna want at least 4.88s or 5.29s for that size tire. if not, expect it to be gutless and get about 12mpg.
isnt that Toyotech559's truck? hes has his Blazeland for ages and has little to no complaints about them. Hes not as active on here as he used to be, but hes usually good for anbswering questions when he logs in. of you can find him on his instagram. hes much more active there.
I'm still pretty new here and can only identify a handful of members' rides but given how well built that yota is, it doesn't surprise me one bit that the owner is a member here. I'm a little disappointed I'm not in Colorado anymore. There's a lot of active members with incredible rides and toyota specialty companies in the Front Range. I'd love to have a community of yota nuts to wheel and wrench with. You're in Cali, right? There's solid communities all over the Land of Fruits & Nuts as well.
theres a few of us located in and around sacramento. Highonpottery, mak924rnr, mkblktaco, darkfairytales, snowwhite. We have all wheeled together before several times and still get together every now and then to help wrench.
theres a few of us located in and around sacramento. Highonpottery, mak924rnr, mkblktaco, darkfairytales, snowwhite. We have all wheeled together before several times and still get together every now and then to help wrench.
I just posted up on the regional threads for a potential Gulf Coast 4ROC chapter. It's hard down here to find a community. Not a ton of us. Sorry for hijacking TrailTrek!!!
If the only issue with the cluster is the front face, your best bet is probably to troll eBay for awhile and look for one to pop up that's broken or untested, then swap parts around
C'mon magnet18, of course I'm all over eBay, Amazon and Craigslist. LOL! Posting a request on my thread is just another avenue for possible opportunities. Is someone bites, cool. If not, that's ok too. I was told at a young age, "If you don't ask, you won't know."
The B-pillar Panels & Kick Panels I recently scored on eBay finally arrived! The original B-Pillar Panels are super brittle and the original Kick Panels are carpeted. I have no choice but to trash the B-Pillar Panels but I'll clean up the original carpeted Kick Panels and store them. I still have to figure out a way to deep clean the front headliner. It looks like a muddy dog shook himself off in the front passenger area because there are a lot of little dirt dots all over it. LOL!
... I still have to figure out a way to deep clean the front headliner...
Brittle B-pillar Panel
Too bad the headliner can't be removed without removing the fiberglas cap. I suggest Fast Orange cleaner and stiff plastic bristle brush. I used same to scrub my carpet where clutch cylinder fluid dripped on.
Yeah, typical of many old plastic parts...
Fast Orange has done wonders for me in the past with clothing oil stains. Thanks for reminding me about it's magical capabilities! I'll give it a go soon *crossing fingers*. Now I just need to decide if I want to keep the original carpet floor or switch to the vinyl floor since I'll be getting it pretty dirty. Don't get me wrong, I'm a clean freak so I'd maintain my carpet but... you gotta admit, a vinyl floor is a lot easier to tidy up.
Last edited by TrailTrek2Fish; 06-22-2017 at 11:17 AM.
06-19-2017, 09:16 AM
Though I definitely won't buy the cross-drilled version for May, even if they're cryogenically treated. Cross-drilled rotors have way too many holes for small rocks and pebbles to get into during a 4wheelin' session, Yikes!
