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Yes'r. I am extremely grateful for that. What irritates me is I saw the pitting post bead-blast clean and I noted myself to address it during reassembly. When I began the reassembly I obviously overlooked it. That's not like me. I prefer to do it right the first time. I am definitely my biggest critic. But yes, the good news is the leak wasn't difficult to get to .
I completed the above repair yesterday. I'll be topping her off with coolant at the 24hr. sealant-cure mark then I'll pressure test her again to ensure all is ok. Once all is verified, I'll reinstall her hood and replace the bushings for the gear shift lever assembly to cease the loose play.
But for now I'll continue reinstalling the dashboard while I wait for the 24hr. mark.
Thankfully the coolant leak has ceased. We put the hood back on but I spent most of the day cleaning and reinstalling the dashboard components. Lots of Q-Tips died for a good cause today. I need to complete the dashboard and seat re-installation work tomorrow because I have to drive her down to the muffler shop on Wednesday to get the rest of the exhaust fabricated and installed.
I still don't know which make & model muffler I'm going to go with but I know I'm not going to run a 3" pipe. I want a deep sounding system. Any suggestions y'all???
I have a magnaflow high flow 2in cat and 2.25 in barrel muffler (as close as possible to factory size). Has a nice sound and drone isn't too ricer at all.
Great news, May is at her exhaust system appointment! I woke up the neighbors when I fired her up at 0645 hours though, LOL!
But here's some less than great news... The downpipe that came with the LCE Garrett GT25R Kit is just a bit short after the O2 sensor so they need to unbolt the downpipe from the backside of the turbo and chop suey it to add about 1.5" to 2" of pipe. What I mean by it being a bit short is it's got about only 1/2" gap between the floorboard heat shield (covering the rear heater pipes) and the top of the downpipe. The supplied flange wouldn't even be able to be welded onto the downpipe with that little of a gap. I mean, it's not that big of a deal but it's definitely slows down the progress.
I got rid of the hear shield. Zero changes in heat, did not have to void LCEs warranty, and had them move the car further back. I also bought an extra pair of flanges so that I could have the exhaust shop make a test pipe so "when I'm 4wheeling, I can take it off and not worry about ruining it"...(regular written quotes are nothing like finger air quotes. Hahahaha) I am running a 2.25" turbo back through a borla proXS muffler and a dump over the rear axle. Havent tried the exhaust with the test pipe, but I'm assuming itll be louder.
REMEMBER! The turbo acts as a muffler. Non turbo 22res are way louder with an open header. The exhaust I got, while very throaty on a 22re is pretty tame with a deep rumble. I can faintly hear the rumble when my wife drives it into the driveway.
What's up space-junk! I ended up going with the Magnaflow setup 84 yota dude mentioned. I'm happy with the results. More on the quiet side but I'm good with it. And yeah, I'm not gonna put a heat shield on either.
Thanks for the compliment Glenh865, much appreciated
We charged the AC system today. Unfortunately the compressor clutch isn't getting a 12V signal even though the AC switch on the temperature control is on/lit.
I'm looking at the FSM but I'll be THE first to admit I suck at electrical troubleshooting. I'm very confident with any mechanical work but I'm intimidated by electronics work
The good news is we directly connected the wire (the ground is achieved via the compressor housing itself) for compressor clutch to 12V and managed to actuate the clutch and immediately got cold air to blow out of the vents so at least we know the system is charged.
Last edited by TrailTrek2Fish; Apr 15, 2018 at 08:51 PM.
Oh yeah, I also replaced the 2 bushings for the gear selector (PRND2L) to get rid of the slop. The 2 bushings (same type for PRND2L) for the 2H, 4H and 4L was a bitch to do because it's a spring loaded (sorry, I didn't get a photo of that). It took some finagling to get that portion done. All 4 of the original bushings were completely obliterated.
Last edited by TrailTrek2Fish; Apr 15, 2018 at 09:11 PM.
Easy tests first. I had my account go out on me but I had feeling it was electrical. I randomly thought I should test the engine heat sensor first. It's easy
Unplug temp sensor wire. Ground to chassis. If ac works. You need new sensor. If not. Easy test no. 1 is checked off the list. Mine worked. Still have it connected to chassis. Lol
Not yet. I'm trying to muster up some confidence to get into the wiring.
It's really easy, don't be scared of a meter. If you can do all the other stuff you've done, you can do this. And you have the FSM, so just follow it and you'll find the issue.
Easy tests first. I had my account go out on me but I had feeling it was electrical. I randomly thought I should test the engine heat sensor first. It's easy
Unplug temp sensor wire. Ground to chassis. If ac works. You need new sensor. If not. Easy test no. 1 is checked off the list. Mine worked. Still have it connected to chassis. Lol
Could you also point out which sensor you mentioned above?
Apr 9, 2018 | 08:17 AM
All 4 of the original bushings were completely obliterated.
