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I just recently bought a '95 4runner, and one morning, it wouldn't start. After changing the alternator and charging the battery, I realized that there was a drain on the battery. After connecting a multimeter, I noticed 1.00 amps being drawn. When I remove the efi relay or the efi fuse, the amps drop to .02. When I removed the efi relay, I noticed that the previous owner used a wire to bypass the relay.
The truck starts fine and runs fine just with this wire in place. But it's drawing power even when the truck is off, and killing my battery over night. I bought a new efi relay, thinking that would fix the problem. The amp draw went away, but the truck won't start. I don't know where to go from here. Any suggestions on what could be causing the truck not to start even with a new efi relay, when a little wire works?
You have an electrical problem. You need a multimeter, even more than you need socks. No multimeter? No excuse for that! https://www.harborfreight.com/7-func...ter-90899.html (Oh, wait. You measured the current draw! You're almost there!)
Okay. You have the simplest of all possible relays (SPST - single pole, single throw). The wire (sheesh!) connects the two sockets that the "switch" part of the relay is supposed to connect. So the other two provide power to the coil of the relay (not sure? There's a drawing on the outside of your new relay.) One of the sockets goes directly to ground, the other goes back to the IGN fuse then to the ignition switch. Using your multimeter with KEY-OFF, check for continuity to ground. That should be pin 2. With key-on, check for 12v on the "other" pin (pin 1). I'm guessing you get 0v.
With 0v, you could have a bad ignition switch, or broken wire, so that with key-on you're not getting power to pin 1 of the relay. Since the truck runs with the jumper, your ignition switch and ign fuse are probably good, which leaves you with the broken wire scenario. My EWD shows it as B-Y, and I'll bet you find the broken wire right under the junction box.
[QUOTE=eternalife77;52379430]... The truck starts fine and runs fine just with this wire in place. But it's drawing power even when the truck is off, and killing my battery over night...
Because when you have the wire there, the circuits that EFI relay supplies are always on, eve if your IN switch is off.
... I bought a new efi relay, thinking that would fix the problem.
Lessons learned:
1) Do not replace anything unless you are absolutely sure it is broken and doing so will fix the problem.
2) Toyota components are bullet-proof. Most problems are caused by poor connection, assembly, maintenance.
... Lessons learned:
1) Do not replace anything unless you are absolutely sure it is broken and doing so will fix the problem.
2) Toyota components are bullet-proof. Most problems are caused by poor connection, assembly, maintenance.
That might be a bit harsh THIS time. So far, he hasn't replaced anything; he (correctly) figured out that he needed to get the relay at some point. RockAuto has them for $20. The PO might have used the jumper wire because the relay was bad. It wasn't completely senseless to rule that out.
I would have checked for voltage on the coil pins first, but even RAD4Runner would have picked up a relay. There isn't any way around that.
Having said all that, it is certainly true that this forum gets its share of "what part do I change next" mechanics.
... The truck starts fine and runs fine just with this wire in place. But it's drawing power even when the truck is off, and killing my battery over night.
Meaning Pin 5 of EFI relay has 12V and wire connects it to pin3 which powers fuel pump ckt.
...I bought a new efi relay, thinking that would fix the problem. The amp draw went away, but the truck won't start. ...
Meaning pin 1 does not get 12V, OR pin 2 does not get ground, so even new EFI relay will not energize and cause contacts to connect pin 5 to pin3
OR old relay has bad coil AND/OR contacts and new relay also has bad coil AND/OR contacts.
Using the lowly $6 multi-meter, this time to check voltage between pins 1 and 2, often prevents expenses from buying un-needed parts.
If 7.5 ign fuse is blown, you will not get power to pin 1 of EFI relay.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; Oct 14, 2017 at 08:09 AM.
If 7.5 ign fuse is blown, you will not get power to pin 1 of EFI relay.
RAD4Runner. You nailed it! Thanks. The 7.5 ign fuse was blown. I changed that, and it cranks right up with the old efi relay. I would have never thought another fuse was the issue. Electronic problems confuse me, and I never could figure out how to read those wiring charts. Thanks for the info!
RAD4Runner. You nailed it! Thanks. The 7.5 ign fuse was blown. !
Most welcome. Awesome! Did you see it blown, measured voltage, or continuity?
It's always good to have the schematic and a multi-meter when troubleshooting. Then trace the power path on paper to help you check each point in order... but yeah - even I find some schematics confusing, especially when they're not continuous on one page, and one needs to jump around from page to page.
BTW,
1) While you have time, it would be a good idea to check wiring, etc to see what caused IGN fuse to blow. Just to make sure it does not catch you again at a bad time or place.
2) Do you have the 3.0 or 22R-E? I highly-recommend putting model-year-engine-transmission-trim on your signature. It would help save everybody time in the future. BEst of luck with your truck maintenance/restore, AND MOST OF ALL FUN USE.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; Oct 16, 2017 at 12:57 PM.
Oct 13, 2017 | 11:02 AM
